Diffidentia Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi, It's about time to actually get a bit involved here on PG after several years lurking. I've been around since the conception of this guitar (which incidentally coincided with the conception of my 1 1/2 year old daughter). In other words: It's taken it's time! It was quite clear from the beginning that I wouldn't want an ordinary guitar, nor did I want to stray to far from the beaten path. After quite a few sketches and searching for the right shape, I came across the Parker Dragonfly (now called MaxxFly - horrid name). It seemed like the perfect blend of the traditional superstrat shape and a longtime favorite, the Fly. Of course, not thinking clear in the pre-birth craze, I wouldn't settle for a "simple" wood and 2 pup configuration. No, instead I set out on a highly ambitious (I think at least) journey to recreate the Dragonfly. The specs (and partly why this has taken so long) Construction: Neck-through with carbon kevlar skin Neck woods: Mahogany/Walnut 5 piece laminate (courtesy of Doug@Soulmateguitars) Fretboard: Pau Ferro and Extra Jumbo frets Body wood: Mahogany Tuners: Hipshot Extender and Schaller M16s Neck pickup: Sustainiac Stealth Pro Bridge pickup: Manson MB2 Bridge: Wilkinson VS-100N with GraphTech ghost saddles Additional electronics: GraphTech Accousti-Phonic and Hexpander As for tools, I'm "lucky" enough to work as a teacher at a school and have full access to the wood shop 24/7. On to the build itself. Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the first pictures where I've arranged all the hardware neatly on a green carpet, but I hope you can visualize it by yourselves Also, before the first pictures I have done the following: - Cut the body wings and glued to the neck - Planed the body down to size - Routed pickup, tremolo and electronics cavities Body cut and marked up for carving. First mistake apparent too: Don't use whatever tape you've got lying around to mask off the fretboard. Back roughly carved. You can also see that I've taken into account that the electronics may take up a bit more space than usual. Headstock cut and drilled holes for tuners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 I like the wood choices and the subtle contrasts of browns- it almost looks edible. I like the way the neck to body transition looks, although I wonder if it doesn't feel a bit thick where it closes with the body. I think I like the way the carve is going, although I'm not quite sure I can see where the the rear of the treble horn or the front of the base horn is going. I'm looking forward to the progress on this. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 The neck did feel a bit thick, but I wasn't sure how to get it thin enough and still have both a nice gradual transition and not take out all the wood beneath the neck pickup. I think I managed to find a decent compromise, though. At least it's not something that bothers me now... So, more progress: Almost done carving the front. I did make some minor adjustements to the bass horn later on (tapered it a bit). Making holes can be an ugly business. Especially if you don't make proper measurements. I'll have to redo this... Of course I couldn't help doing a mockup at this stage. Another look at the front carve. Next build I'll use what I've learned on this one to avoid having to use putty. Just doesn't seem like proper luthierie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Okay, I can see where those carves are going now. Nice, I like that. Carry on sir. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Awesome first build! Where's the kevlar going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 The carbon kevlar is going on the back. Just like Parker does with their Flys and the top end MaxxFly. Here a few shots of the back prior to skinning. Then, a short respite before attempting to work with carbon skinning for the first time. As if making a guitar was enough by itself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 On to the skinning process. A short explanation of the process for those who haven't worked with either carbon or glass fibre (which I hadn't before this). I'm first going to lay down a base coat of black epoxy on the back of guitar and let it sit until it's tack. At that point I'll lay on a rough cut piece of carbon kevlar fibre and stretch it into shape and tape it off. Base coat on. This is what happens to epoxy left alone, hehe... Carbon kevlar fibre on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arx Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Nice build. Long time lurker here too and I too have planned to build a Fly for some time. One of the things what has stopped me so far has been a carbon fretboard. As many actual Parker Flys I have tried ,the neck feels super comfortable and fast due to carbon covered fretboard. I know parker glues the special shaped stainless steel frets on fretboard, just haven't figured out where to get these kind of frets and what glue to use. One question though about using carbon/Kevlar - does it have any advantages over plain carbon in the musical instruments? Will follow your build eagerly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 One question though about using carbon/Kevlar - does it have any advantages over plain carbon in the musical instruments? To be honest, I'm really not sure what it brings to the table by doing it this way. Had it been preprep'ed and then baked in an oven like Parker does... but I hope that besides a cool look it'll add some structural strength to the guitar. As for the difference between plain carbon fibre and carbon kevlar, here what CarbonMods-co-uk say: "This fabric combines the properties of 2 unique reinforcement yarns. Carbon provides high levels of stiffness and strenght, whereas Kevlar provides huge impact/abrasion/fracture resistance. This distinct looking hybrid cloth is used in many high-performance, high-impact applications such as canoes, military ballistics and rally-car panelling." ...and guitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Now I'm really loving the carve. I kinda hate to see you cover it up. Excellent supply of "fuel" or "builder's reward" you have on hand as well. I'd say you have the building basics covered nicely. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted February 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 No building without proper fuel I assure you, the shape won't change because of the carbon kevlar skin, just have a look: Tape off... Epoxy clear coat Shiny.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Oh there's no doubt that it is going to look sweet when finished. It looked pretty damn good half way there too. That fibre matte looks to be thick and bulky and yet it seems to have conformed to those compound curves nicely. Is it really that conforming or is that just a testament to your skills? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 Now that is cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 That is so awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 You call it ambitious. Pssh. I think you're doing amazing thusfar. That thing looks incredile. Cant wait to see it all polished up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdshirtman Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Very cool. Nice job man. I've been mulling around something similar in my head and its nice to see someone attempting it. I think this will have a very cool payoff in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 One thing I've always been curious about is how to deal with the seams... I'm really looking forward to more progress pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arx Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 One thing I've always been curious about is how to deal with the seams... I'm really looking forward to more progress pics! There should be no seams except where the neck curve and fretboard edges meets when you make fiber fretboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 You call it ambitious. Pssh. I think you're doing amazing thusfar. That thing looks incredile. Cant wait to see it all polished up. Thanks I'm a bit surprised that I've managed to pull something like this of, seeing as I have minimal experience in woodworking. But as they say, if you don't jump in, you'll never learn. However, on to a few mistakes/shortcomings in my build plan One thing I've always been curious about is how to deal with the seams... I'm really looking forward to more progress pics! There should be no seams except where the neck curve and fretboard edges meets when you make fiber fretboard Ideally there should be no seams. However, you have to plan for that a bit better than I did. That's why I had to do this: Here's how it looked after removing strips of the fibre to allow for a smoother transition to the fretboard. The back. Getting to this point was what took the longest time. Sanding carbon kevlar is a PITA! Also, I went into politics and had to run a campaign to become a member of the local municipality counsil. That took quite a lot of time, but luckily we succeded! Another mistake. I mentioned earlier I had to come back to this. Mahogany off-cuts and Titebond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Wear a respirator please. Glass fibers in the lungs are bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 You'd think having cf/k lining the lungs would be good if you ever got shot at lol. Looking nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Wear a respirator please. Glass fibers in the lungs are bad. I did. I'm very cautious in these circumstances since I also have Asthma, so I'm taking no chances Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 You'd think having cf/k lining the lungs would be good if you ever got shot at lol. Looking nice. Hehe, remind me never to test your theory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juntunen Guitars Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I know parker glues the special shaped stainless steel frets on fretboard, just haven't figured out where to get these kind of frets and what glue to use. Don't glue the frets onto the top of the board like that, that's the only thing I've never understood that Parker does, I feel bad for anyone who has to refret that in the future and there is a huge window of error gluing them like that let alone to work with stainless steel frets to begin with isn't that fun anyways IMO. You can use any frets if you want to glue just clip the tang off and grid the bottom of the crown flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 The entire reason a Parker plays as slick and as "fast" as arx said is because of the SS frets...glued down has nothing to do with it,plain old SS frets are just as slick if it is good SS....I get mine from Allied Lutherie. As someone who works exclusively with SS frets on every single build I have made since my first two,I can tell you all of the hokum about it being so difficult to work is just that....Hokum...it IS somewhat tougher on your tools,but if you know what you are doing and you make your fretboard perfect before you fret,and then actually fret it right,there will be little to no need for leveling and recrowning the frets. And once you are done,you may never have to refret the guitar...and if you ever do it won't be for a looooong time.Also,the Hokum about SS "chewing through strings" that i have heard time and time again is just idle talk that pays no attention to reality or the laws of physics...SS is denser and smoother once polished than nickel frets,so the strings actually last longer. Since I presently have 6 guitars(4 I built,one Ibanez I replaced the neck on with a Warmoth in SS, and one I refretted from KXK) with SS frets and 4 guitars with nickel(two Gibsons,an Edwards,and a PRS,all set up properly),and since after the refret the KXK plays better because of the SS,i think I am entitled to an informed refute of all the trash I hear talked about SS frets. All that being said,I don't mean to imply that nickel is inferior...it's been proven for years to be part of countless masterpiece guitars...but never,ever believe anyone who says SS is not worth the small bit of extra wear on your tools. IMO the board material has little to do with it either I am not trying to sound belligerent,I just love my SS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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