madhattr88 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) well i thought i mastered the whole tru-oil thing. Then THIS happens. My normal finish procedure for necks. 1-Sand to 220. 2-Seal with Shellac 3-Waterbased Timbermate Grain fill 4-Sand dried filler with 320 5-Seal again with shellac 6-Sand with 320 Repeat steps 3 thru 6 until all the pores are filled 7-Sand to 500 8-Apply tru-oil with fingers and immediately wipe off (buff) with coffee filters, until the filter glides smoothly across the surface. No tackiness. 9- About 9-12 coats of tru-oil The whole neck came out great, except for the edges of the rosewood headplate. Pores keep coming back. I've tried re-filling, re-shellacing, re-tru-oiling....everything. And yet they still come back. What do these pores want??? Here's the pic. Any suggestins? Did i do something wrong? Edited April 24, 2012 by madhattr88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Untitled_Project Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 I've used sanding sealer that I bought from a craft store. It's water based, so you can thin it out with water. I used a sponge brush and thinned it out a lot and applied a bunch of coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Just keep on going until they fill in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Just keep on going until they fill in. With the Tru-oil and coffee filters??? I apply it pretty thin. The coffee filters wipe it away to almost nothing. I'll keep going. Let u know how many coats it takes. Figure about 3 or 4 per day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Sooner or later the pores will fill.The one I did years ago with tru oil had a spot that kept soaking it up,but eventually I got it all filled and it turned out good.Well...good for my skill level at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 I'll keep going. Just trying to figure out why this happened. I'm thinking I didn't have the filler thin enough. How does my procedure look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 It may have something to do with the edge grain. I had similar problems on a few guitars over the years. I figures it had to do with large open pores on the face & open endgrain so close to it. I could be wrong. I just took the finish back & redone the sealer. But rubbed it in with 000 wirewool. that way some of the sanding dust got mashed into the pores aswell. Helped with sinking finishes. Maby someone with more oil experiance could offer a good explanation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 So what is the time frame between applications. With Tru-Oil I always give at least a day between every 3 coats. Since tru oil goes on so thin it in of itself is a poor pore filer as its main job is to sink in. What you can do is lightly sand a coat of oil with 1000 grit wet/dry and leave the slurry on the surface for a while. After the slurry starts to get a little sticky you wipe it off cross grain leaving some in the pores. This should fill your reopening pores. To give you an idea how awesome pores in wood are... on my recent limba body they run from the end all the way to the middle of the back of the guitar. Hitting the strap jack hole with compressed air will force oil to seep out in the middle of the belly cut... Another question is why seal the neck with Shellac first? I was under the idea that Tru-Oil or any oil for that matter is meant to sink in. The oil carries the varnish deeper into the wood. I would think that shellac would stop the oil from penetrating the wood properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Would CA not turn out well for something like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Probably not at this stage of the game after he's got so many coats of oil. CA tends to seal up everything, pores, fibers and all so that nothing can soak in. One of the big draws of oil is how it makes the wood look after it soaks in. To encourage that oil is normally used as its own pore filler, typically with the slurry method RAD described. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 The reason I sealed with shellac is because it's rosewood. I had problems with Tru oil and rosewood before. Doesn't cure properly over oily woods. Anyway, it took about 12 more coats until the pores were filled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 The reason I sealed with shellac is because it's rosewood. I had problems with Tru oil and rosewood before. Doesn't cure properly over oily woods. Anyway, it took about 12 more coats until the pores were filled. Right ran into that with Cocobolo and Tru-Oil... forgot. I actually stopped using Tru-oil after that fiasco. Thanks for reminding me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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