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Searls Guitars Build Thread


demonx

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Those look nice. I didn't know Sasfrass got that big. Around these parts one with a 6" diameter trunk is big.

I assume you're in USA? Your profile doesnt say. Tasmanian Sassafras and the Sass you guys have over there are not the same tree.

"Atherosperma moschatum Labill" is what I have (Tasmanian Sassafras) and what is grown over there is "Sassafras albidum (Nuttall)"

Different tree, different leaves, differrent timber. But they share a name, very confusing.

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'' Instead I have to depend on the local luthier to do the work... luckily for me in Perth it is Perry. But the rest of the world is not so lucky.''

Do you really think that there aren't people capable of doing a proper job of setting up and adjusting a guitar anywhere else in the world? Or am I missing something here...

No. And don't take it personal I know there are great luthiers throughout the world. This site has taught me that. But like Searls said outside of a few guys I know from email and forums I am not sure who the heck might decide it was a good day to try something they have never attempted on one of my guitars.

I asked Allen to help me out when it comes to repairs. If I send guitars to within driving distance (whatever a customer is willing to drive) of Searls I would be happy for him to work on my stuff.

I just have to hope the local guy is good in other parts of the world.

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'' Instead I have to depend on the local luthier to do the work... luckily for me in Perth it is Perry. But the rest of the world is not so lucky.''Do you really think that there aren't people capable of doing a proper job of setting up and adjusting a guitar anywhere else in the world? Or am I missing something here...

No. And don't take it personal I know there are great luthiers throughout the world. This site has taught me that. But like Searls said outside of a few guys I know from email and forums I am not sure who the heck might decide it was a good day to try something they have never attempted on one of my guitars.I asked Allen to help me out when it comes to repairs. If I send guitars to within driving distance (whatever a customer is willing to drive) of Searls I would be happy for him to work on my stuff.I just have to hope the local guy is good in other parts of the world.

Got it, sorry for the misunderstanding, now back to a killer thread.

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It's been my experience that kahler haters are those who have never played one, or have not had one set up properly.

I often get people asking for a floyd or a hipshot or some bridge other than a Kahler. Most often these are people who have never owner a Kahlered guitar.

This is why I install Kahlers on my builds:

Benefits:

Its both a trem or a hardtail. I play mine as a fixed bridge, there is a small grub screw in the back that locks in, if its in, its a fixed bridge and it cannot move, if its out, its full trem like a floyd.

More adjustability than most bridges. You can adjust string spacing left and right. Great for getting the guitar to feel right for your playing personality. Can adjust individual string heights as well as the usual intonation forward and backward. There are aftermarket springs to adjust tension, or different saddles etc can be experimented with. Ie: upgrades are available.

As a fixed bridge - it recieves all the benefits of fine tuners and lock nut that is missing from all fixed bridges.

As a tremolo -

It has a cam rather than blades like a floyd has, so if you dive, the cam rotates wheres a floyd can jump, screwing up your tuning etc.

It has individual rollers on each saddle, so the rollers move with the string rather than a fixed saddle which doesn't. On a kahler if the string moves the roller helps it to seat back in the exact same spot not effecting your tuning

On the 7 string bridges, the upper strings have larger saddles to allow for the trend of massive string guages.

Kahler route Vs floyd route - the kahler has a shallow, top only route. The floyd is routed through the entire guitar and then a massive cavity on the rear of the guitar as well. People crap on about "tonewood" - most tremolo's reguire you remove half of it. Not the kahler. Neat and tidy.

CONS: The kahler locknuts are crap, that's why I use floyd locknuts with the kahler bridge.

Sure they're a little chunky than some of the "petite" bridges on the market, but you very quickly get used to that and the fact they're a sure solid bridge thats been on the market since the 80's and has benefitted from decades of improvement.

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Danish oil in video 8 and furniture polish in video 9. The black was a standard furniture stain.

Not my preferred finish choices, but it's what the customer wanted and it works.

It was left for over a week before buffing otherwise the Danish oil will go all funny, you want it to harden right up.

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#5 was the first of the run to see oil.

Here is a couple teaser pics:

Branded logo in African Mahogany:
1381879_537599159655256_109661632_n.jpg

A close up of the Black Walnut body, where you can see the Walnut, Mahogany and Ebony all merging:
1454811_537599149655257_1175575619_n.jpg

Three piece African Mahogany neck. If one piece wants to move, it has to fight the other two. Makes for a much more stable neck:
1379598_537599106321928_1481093833_n.jpg

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Bit more progress today - #2 is now grain filled and at oil stage:

I normally don't spread the grain filled this thick, but it was warm enough today that the paste was drying before I could spread it out thin. Creates extra sanding work.
1390776_539086749506497_982349250_n.jpg

#2 after grain fill was sanded and the first coat of oil applied:
1394413_539132352835270_1752523955_n.jpg

578484_539135246168314_1234017419_n.jpg

I also put together this trolley today to keep all the sanding supplies in one place. Makes things quicker and easier having a portable sanding station.

1451383_539135966168242_417205754_n.jpg

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What type of grain filler are you using, Allan? I found it easier to rag on water-based fillers and have a dish of water to moisten the rag a little. Not to the point of the filler ending up like cream or raising the grain to hell but enough to stop it ending up like chalk after a few seconds.

That's a really neat roundover on that one Allan. Is this the results coming out of your sanding dude?

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This is just a timber mate filler. Today I added more water and had it runny but it was still going chalky very quick due to being a warmer day.

I actually hate timber mate filler, i usually fill with west systems, but being these are oil finishes the timber mate is a more suitable choice.

Not sure what you mean by a neat round over. The new guy has just done what I instructed, which is sand everything but not touch the edge until its finished and then just run the 320 around it to knock off the sharp edge. It's the way I've been doing it for years.

In other news, I've found a guy I can outsource paint to and actually trust the finished result. He's a late 60's retired luthier that just does repair work, but happens to have a spray booth for the odd paint job. The run I'm starting in Jan will be the first four guitars I send his way. This means I can focus on my workshop being a woodwork environment and not have the issue of dust free days and loosing woodworking days to paint days. Hopefully I'll be a lot more productive. Ill trial this for twelve months and see what happens

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