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Build 3 : Pgm Hardtail Esque


bob123

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How much dust and crap is in that finish?

You should find a better location or do some better location prep work before doing anything more.

If I had dust like that in a finish I'd have to sand it back and start again. I have for much less.

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How much dust and crap is in that finish?

You should find a better location or do some better location prep work before doing anything more.

If I had dust like that in a finish I'd have to sand it back and start again. I have for much less.

haha thats just some wd40 I sprayed on it dude, its gonna get an oil finish in my kitchen when Im ready for it :)

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Err, why not? O.o Alcohol based dye + thinner = mess... wd40 leaves no mess and wipes off with a rag? It also lasts much longer for photo purposes. If I used thinner, it would bleed the dye and ruin my faux binding.

Anyway, first coat of oil applied. I will do a couple thicker coats wiped on, then do the sand in method. That said, if anyone has some tips n tricks for making control cavities look pretty, Id love to hear it. Im just planning on dabbin in some black acrylic and then copper foiling it.

20121201190806.jpg

Edited by bob123
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haha thats just some wd40 I sprayed on it dude

*facepalm*

I can't even think of anything to say. I think wes coveted it all!

Bob. Simply put, when you want to paint or oil something, you want zero contaminants. Not deliberately introducing them. I have never heard of anyone using WD40 in luthiery, in fact I don't even use the stuff as a lube, it's dreadful!

I even cringe when I see people wipe shellite or even water over timber for photos. When I spray my sealers I want them sprayed on raw timber, not timber that's been molested with something that could ruin the finish

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in fact I don't even use the stuff as a lube, it's dreadful!

It's only good for removing rusted bolts when doing mechanic work.I use it all the time for that,but it's a good way to ruin moving parts as a lube...plus it melts proper grease and what it leaves behind is not sufficient to keep moving parts from seizing up.

Can also be used as gun oil in a pinch,but it's not as good as the right stuff.

Bottom line is that WD-40 is a contaminant on wood...like Demonx said,keep your wood clean.For photos I use denatured alcohol,but I don't really do the "wet" photos anymore...I like to save the final figuring for the big finish

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For photos I use denatured alcohol,but I don't really do the "wet" photos anymore...I like to save the final figuring for the big finish

I say **** the photos. What is the point in buying kiln dried or air dried wood that is at a certain moisture content (so our guitars dont twist and fall apart) if you plan on just rubbing moisture back into them! Leave it dry till it's sealed/painted.

As far as rattle can lubes and penetrating old rusted bolts etc, I use inox. If someone came into my workshop and sprayed inox in a guitar I'd possibly knock them out. It's a silicone based lube. Not a product to be used for guitar purposes.

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What is the point in buying kiln dried or air dried wood that is at a certain moisture content (so our guitars dont twist and fall apart) if you plan on just rubbing moisture back into them!

Different thing entirely.I agree to an extent but we all know rubbing water isn't turning it back to green wood.And denatured alcohol is not moisture any more than polyurethane is.

Of course the photo wetting is sort of a newb thing,but we all clean up the wood and wipe it down to see what it looks like and get an idea of what to do with it...at least those of us who use figured woods do.

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WD-40? I musta missed that class. the WD stands for water displacement -it's intended use was to make spark-plug wires work when they were wet. Its not a lubricant, although everyone seems to treat it as such.

I do like the new shade of purple tho- very rick looking / much more saturated. good stuff.

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WD-40? I musta missed that class. the WD stands for water displacement

Yes is does - but this doesnt mean its water, it means its dor displacing water!

Read the "function" section and tell me again if you think its a good idea to spray on a surface you want zero contamination on:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

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Ironically, its the same shade, I didn't dillute it any different. I dunno, maybe I didn't mix the bottle correctly last time or something, I dunno. Glad y'all like it, I'm thrilled with the color!

As for wd40, I stand bty what I said earlier. Its mostly petroleum distillates, same type as naptha or mineral oil, both of which are commonly used in wood working. It doesn't penetrate wood, and if you don't believe me, try it out on a scrap piece. It wipes off with some thinner or alcohol, leaving a clean, dry surface. I would never spray it before a finish, that's just silly, but it does come off and leaves no residue... believe it or not, doesn't matter. I will agree with the "wait for the finish"statements though.

Edited by bob123
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WD-40? I musta missed that class. the WD stands for water displacement -it's intended use was to make spark-plug wires work when they were wet. Its not a lubricant, although everyone seems to treat it as such.

I do like the new shade of purple tho- very rick looking / much more saturated. good stuff.

Oddly enough - although this is one of its most common uses nowadays - it was developed to prevent moisture condensation corroding the insides of missiles in silos. You know, nukes. The 40 means it was the fortieth formulation. Yeah, I hate the stuff. It's good for freeing up seized parts but ends up collecting more junk than it removes eventually. People even recommend it in place of a proper switch cleaner in pots! Can you believe that? Exactly the place you DON'T want any junk collecting.

That stuff should be put to death along with the cold war it was invented in.

Rant over.

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