RestorationAD Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 LP are a bit unweildy to work on once the neck is set. Almost forgot the strap locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Before we start to throw finish on have to install the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) I always do it that way too when I use a standard nut.. Edited July 1, 2014 by westhemann Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hmm. I just tape off the nut slot. SEems like it would be too hard to mask off the nut in exact shape before finishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I think that its a more "traditional Gibson" (awful term) method of working? Installing the nut prior to finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process? I always do it that way too when I use a standard nut.. I think that its a more "traditional Gibson" (awful term) method of working? Installing the nut prior to finish? +1 it is a more Gibson thing... It allows me to fit the nut perfect, sand the sides to match the neck and not worry about scratching the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process?I always do that, otherwise I couldn't check if everything is in place before finishing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Please tell me that you have good news re: epoxy cleanup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Please tell me that you have good news re: epoxy cleanup? No spoilers. I bought a big arse gallon can of Mohawk Pre Cat Lacquer and I have the day off tomorrow. Guess what I am doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Another bottle of Everclear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process? I always do that, otherwise I couldn't check if everything is in place before finishing... But why does it need to be? I always do the nut last. You can always make a nut to fit during any time of the process. I dont see why it would NEED to be done before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process? I always do that, otherwise I couldn't check if everything is in place before finishing... But why does it need to be? I always do the nut last. You can always make a nut to fit during any time of the process. I dont see why it would NEED to be done before. It doesn't absolutely HAVE to be. You can do it whenever... god knows I have forgotten and done it last more than once. I think that it is easier to have the nut installed early so that you don't scratch anything or slip with a file late in the build. It is easier to make a nut flush before you start sealing and painting. Also for me this is a vintage feel thing. On a Gibson style build the clear should cover the sides of the nut. If you have a bit of amber in your clear to give it a vintage feel it is easier to have the nut installed before finishing. Realistic Rules of Building: 1. Do things in the order that make them easiest. This takes a long time to figure out so write it down somewhere. 2. Don't mess up the scale. Ugly guitars that tune properly are much better than ugly guitars that don't 3. Learn to cover up "mistakes" with "features". Strange inlays in weird places, miscellaneous veneers, exotic wood caps... are "I meant to do that" not "Oh Sh*Ts" 4. Use "every build is different" to explain anything out of the ordinary that happens. 5. Wood is never consistent so don't expect your builds to be. 6. Mistakes are beautiful. Except when they are really bad... then they are firewood. Make a video of it burning so it is not a total loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Why do you have to install your nut before the finishing process? I always do that, otherwise I couldn't check if everything is in place before finishing... But why does it need to be? I always do the nut last. You can always make a nut to fit during any time of the process. I dont see why it would NEED to be done before. Well, I never said that it needs to be done, is just a personal choice. I'm not an experienced builder, so I feel better if I check that everything works before spend two months in the finishing process. Having the nut in place allows me to string the guitar, place the bridge correctly, check intonation, check neck straightness, check frets levelling, etc... Of course you can do it later, but I prefer to do it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Realistic Rules of Building: 1. Do things in the order that make them easiest. This takes a long time to figure out so write it down somewhere. 2. Don't mess up the scale. Ugly guitars that tune properly are much better than ugly guitars that don't 3. Learn to cover up "mistakes" with "features". Strange inlays in weird places, miscellaneous veneers, exotic wood caps... are "I meant to do that" not "Oh Sh*Ts" 4. Use "every build is different" to explain anything out of the ordinary that happens. 5. Wood is never consistent so don't expect your builds to be. 6. Mistakes are beautiful. Except when they are really bad... then they are firewood. Make a video of it burning so it is not a total loss. +1, +2, +3...........and so forth. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck_Chill-Out Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Realistic Rules of Building: 1. Do things in the order that make them easiest. This takes a long time to figure out so write it down somewhere. 2. Don't mess up the scale. Ugly guitars that tune properly are much better than ugly guitars that don't 3. Learn to cover up "mistakes" with "features". Strange inlays in weird places, miscellaneous veneers, exotic wood caps... are "I meant to do that" not "Oh Sh*Ts" 4. Use "every build is different" to explain anything out of the ordinary that happens. 5. Wood is never consistent so don't expect your builds to be. 6. Mistakes are beautiful. Except when they are really bad... then they are firewood. Make a video of it burning so it is not a total loss. +1, +2, +3...........and so forth. SR Drat, I didn't know about #6, so I didn't video the last neck I screwed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Starting with a few heavy coats of high solids sanding sealer before a grain fill followed by leveling. I like to keep the guitar level while spraying as it helps even the flow out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Fast forward a few days and it is time to grain fill. Not my favorite thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Looks like I will still need to do some leveling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Can't really see it in the photo but even the top is still a little uneven. Leveling the back with CA and credit card. I know what you are going to ask. Why are you leveling out with CA when you already grain filled? The vintage grain fill I have is just not really good at it. I love the color though so I always use it and then if I need to have a really flat surface I will use CA on top of it. Normally I don't do super flat clear. I like the nitro to shrink and still show the grain. It makes me feel that the clear is thin and is letting the instrument breathe... yes just "voodoo" but still. For the LP I think it needs to be a mirror finish that is flat and clear... tradition maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 I really don't like using the CA as sanding it can be tricky and I know the dust is bad. But it is quick and that is what respirators are for. Still some work to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 First coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 You still going with trans-black? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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