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This ain't gonna be yer "normal" SS.


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Cheers Chris!

I'm glad you are enjoying this. I know I am. Hopefully you'll get some ideas.....and I'm sure I'll be doing some things you probably shouldn't try. I tend to be somewhat unothodox in my builds and use methods that I enjoy artistically as opposed to the easiest and most repeatable methods. Some of them probably should have a disclaimer: closed course, or do not try this at home, or possibly, no actual animals were harmed during this build. :D

SR

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Cheers Chris!

I'm glad you are enjoying this. I know I am. Hopefully you'll get some ideas.....and I'm sure I'll be doing some things you probably shouldn't try. I tend to be somewhat unothodox in my builds and use methods that I enjoy artistically as opposed to the easiest and most repeatable methods. Some of them probably should have a disclaimer: closed course, or do not try this at home, or possibly, no actual animals were harmed during this build. :D

SR

The experimental and fun approach to guitar building, it's great that you go with that philosophy.

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Cheers Chris!

I'm glad you are enjoying this. I know I am. Hopefully you'll get some ideas.....and I'm sure I'll be doing some things you probably shouldn't try. I tend to be somewhat unothodox in my builds and use methods that I enjoy artistically as opposed to the easiest and most repeatable methods. Some of them probably should have a disclaimer: closed course, or do not try this at home, or possibly, no actual animals were harmed during this build. :D

SR

I differently try some out of the box stuff in the future once it get a few builds under my belt. I want to make an 8 string, but thinking that will be by 3rd or 4th build.

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The next thing to do before fretting is to camber the fret slots to allow for the fillets in the junction of the fret and tang.

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I use a guide made from Bubinga with a slot the width of a fret and the surface covered with leather I cut from an old boot. Set the fret in the slot and tap with a mallet while sliding the guide along the fret. The leather helps to keep from marring the fretboard. I always find a way to mar it anyway.....

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I like using this V-slot normally used to sharpen fishing hooks.....to polish the frets after crowning.

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Then it's time to shape the neck and transition to the volute and headstock.

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SR

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On the other hand I'm really pleased with the contrast I get from using the same wood in the fretboard for the neck laminate along with the same wood used for the body.

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I'm pretty sure I'll be doing that again. I had to use a little mineral spirits to clean the glue from the blue tape masking the fretboard while leveling and crowning. Might as well see what the headstock cap looks like....

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I caught some nice figure even if I didn't catch much of the burl.

SR

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Really nice fretwork.

Thanks CG. I may have to touch up the end dressing when I get finished rolling over the fretboard edges. The finish sanding that will roll the edges will also dress the fret ends, but it always seems like I have to do a little touch up work. I can't stand feeling fret ends or sharp edges on the board. You cannot feel frets that have been bevelled to the edge of the board if it is done right.....but come winter those pointy little bevels are most likely going to sprout. I'd rather eliminate the points right now.

SR

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Oh yeah, the contrast in those timbers is fantastic. I often wonder when I see truss rod channels coming level out from the headstock, what angle is the headstock to be able to do that?

Hey Muzz-

This one happens to be 17 degrees, but I've done several the same way at 13 degrees.

SR

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I must admit that timber combo for the neck is looking pretty tasty.

I don't know enough about Zebrawood to know how it is for necks (although wrapped around that center chunk I see no issue at all), but I do know that it smells like you've stepped in dog poo when you are working it!

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Oh yeah, the contrast in those timbers is fantastic. I often wonder when I see truss rod channels coming level out from the headstock, what angle is the headstock to be able to do that?

Hey Muzz-

This one happens to be 17 degrees, but I've done several the same way at 13 degrees.

SR

17 Degrees? Oh the horror!!! I can't believe you would do such a thing!!! AHHHH.... :angry2::facepalm:

14 is the only degree to use. 17 will greatly effect your tone. Even 12 is better than 17.

Kidding aside this thing is looking tasty! :)

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You got the neck construction down!! You make it look so easy!! When I start on my neck, I hope mine turns out haft as good.

Thanks Chris....I hope yours does so as well.

I must admit that timber combo for the neck is looking pretty tasty.

I don't know enough about Zebrawood to know how it is for necks (although wrapped around that center chunk I see no issue at all), but I do know that it smells like you've stepped in dog poo when you are working it!

Thanks!

This is my first go at zebrawood too. So far it rings like a bell and feels really good in the hand. Much better than I expected really, given the pores and tendency to splinter. It feels silky smooth. And the thing is crazy stiff. Of, course that nearly inch wide chunk of ebony plays a major part in that.

I've heard stories of nasty aromas ranging from dog poo to cat's pee describing this stuff when worked. This piece is not bad at all. Nothing that I'd call an odor at all coming from it.

Oh yeah, the contrast in those timbers is fantastic. I often wonder when I see truss rod channels coming level out from the headstock, what angle is the headstock to be able to do that?

Hey Muzz-

This one happens to be 17 degrees, but I've done several the same way at 13 degrees.

SR

17 Degrees? Oh the horror!!! I can't believe you would do such a thing!!! AHHHH.... :angry2::facepalm:

14 is the only degree to use. 17 will greatly effect your tone. Even 12 is better than 17.

Kidding aside this thing is looking tasty! :)

What can I say, I take a risk from time to time. :P

And thanks, so far I'm very pleased with the combos so far. It will be interesting to see how much change after a teak oil bath.

SR

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I spent some time cleaning up the edges of this and after getting the rough parts smoothed out, I decided the tight stuff that was left was going to need some help. I plan to make a template for weight relief cavities soon any way so I cut out a body shape from half inch MDF.

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I screw it down in the neck pocket area and am going to usea pattern following bit to match it to the body as shaped so far.

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Then I clean up all the tight stuff on the template and smooth out every curve that was left.

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And then use that to route new edges in the body.

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SR

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It was partially successful. I created some snipes that need to be sanded out. the inside curves are clean and the overall smoothness of the curves came out nice.

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It occurs to me I may have had some subliminal reference when I came up with this shape.....

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I see I totally forgot to document the routing of the neck pocket. It consisted of double sided taping straight piews of the MDF to the body using the tenon as a guide and routing to a depth that sets the top right at the fretboard. I cleaned up the corners with a sharp chisel and lightly rounded the edges of the tenon so it would sit flush in the cavity.

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I'll level the tenon to match the body surface later.

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SR

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Okay, you gotta throw out a clue, is the leg rest still gonna be comfy when the carving is finished?

Well, this carve is going to have some edges to go with the soft curves I normally carve, but everywhere it contacts your body should be smooth and comfy. As far as how this offset design fits against your leg while seated......man I have no clue. :blink:

SR

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Love it, think about layering some wood and carving to it knowing it will show up under the carve ..I did that on a head stock , it adds a wow factor.

It does indeed.

A form of that is going to happen here......

SR

Cool , looking forward to it ...fun stuff .
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Okay, you gotta throw out a clue, is the leg rest still gonna be comfy when the carving is finished?

Well, this carve is going to have some edges to go with the soft curves I normally carve, but everywhere it contacts your body should be smooth and comfy. As far as how this offset design fits against your leg while seated......man I have no clue. :blink:

SR

Not to worry Scotty. If its not too comfy on yer leg when your sitting its no big deal.

Just so long as when your standing with your left foot up on a big moniter, with yer 26 Marshall stacks lined up behind you, shredding with the left hand, waving a katana over your head catching lightning bolts with the right hand, hair blasting back in the wind from your 2 36 inch fans blowing up from the stage floor - all while being cheerd on by your 700,000 strong audience of tyrannosarus rex fans who traveled thru space & time to come see you make steve vai look like an amature. then its all good.

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