charisjapan Posted November 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Glued the bridge plate/pickup ring yesterday ... After a bit more sanding, locating the bridge, and a few final tweaks, started to apply Odie's Oil. It's become a little cooler, so this stuff is thick. But as instructed, using a little abrasive pad (not sure, but #1500?), it starts to work into the wood. I knew the Limba had some interesting things going on, but the oil really brings out all the wood "eddies" ... Cool! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 1 hour ago, charisjapan said: I was discussing what causes that "micro ripple" effect in certain woods. You can see it here on your Padauk at the right-hand side. I've seen it prevalent in Zebrano, Wengé and a few other hard woods. It almost looks like miniature planer blade marks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 24 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I was discussing what causes that "micro ripple" effect in certain woods. You can see it here on your Padauk at the right-hand side. I've seen it prevalent in Zebrano, Wengé and a few other hard woods. It almost looks like miniature planer blade marks! Indeed, Padauk has a lot of interesting things going on. When carving the Mt.Fuji headstock area, there were lots of unusual “phenomena,” those micro ripples, strong mineral streaks, and something like a micro burl. I’ll see if I can get a picture of it. Probably why I’m enjoying Padauk so much! Chinaberry has these effects, too. Was really surprised by the White Limba in today’s post ... it’s like seeing water effects in a clear stream. Weirdest so far is a Black Palm (Palmyra) fretboard blank I picked up at Woodcraft in Honolulu ... can’t wait to see wha5 that looks like sanded and oiled! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 This is still "on the workbench," but brought it upstairs to show a family member on Skype. Here's a compare shot of the size and shape alongside a strat and an LP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 (edited) Double post Edited November 13, 2017 by charisjapan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Mockup Time! Still several applications (guess "coats" doesn't work) of Odie's Oil to go, but had to do a mockup to confirm bridge location and nut height (more honestly, to drool over my own build, and get a sense for balance and feel). Looks like weight will be a little over/under 8 pounds (3.65g). I wasn't really shooting for light weight, though Limba IS a light wood, but wanted a full 2 inches (51mm) of body thickness. I could have thinned the body, made a larger controls cavity, or even taken off a tummy cut and arm contour ... but that would have made it too "stratty" (thought that might happen on Padauk Mt.Fuji #2 ). 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 There's some intangible aspect of this build that is perfectly Japanese. Every post is a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 On 11/12/2017 at 8:02 AM, Prostheta said: I was discussing what causes that "micro ripple" effect in certain woods. You can see it here on your Padauk at the right-hand side. I've seen it prevalent in Zebrano, Wengé and a few other hard woods. It almost looks like miniature planer blade marks! I've always believed those are edge on rays. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 The ever-fantastic Paul over at Hobbit House said that he figured out what it was, then forgot. The best he can remember was that it has "something to do with either banded parenchyma or numerous evenly spaced tiny rays. Zebrawood does not have banded parenchyma but does have evenly spaced tiny rays, but I do not now see how they could lead to this characteristic." It's a very distinctive and unique feature which a few woods seem to exhibit. I myself can't see a single determining factor either. Paul thinks that it is something ridiculously obvious but obviously forgettable as it seems! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 Oh, yeah ... for @Mr Natural 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 A few shots of Padauk whatever-it-is ... ... and incredibly elusive to my iPhone's auto-focus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 Went downstairs to my shop, and under LED light ... first pic is the other side of that bridge/ring, subsequent pics are the neck, a different piece of wood. So, we have clear growth rings, somewhat patterned open grain, and random mineral streaks. Then we have a pronounced chatoyance, bright red to dark blood red. Then those "whatevers," that look almost like machine marks, very regular, but they are also chatoyant ... moving side to side makes the light/dark reverse color. "Whatever" it is, it's pretty! FWIW, I don't think rays, because I don't see them fan spreading or widening. Fortunately, I don't seem to be allergic to Padauk, and I like the spicy aroma. It's IS a bit on the heavy side ... I think I'll carve the other neck to a slim profile, a thinner headstock, and 22 frets ... which is all my daughter needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 Very nice. Appreciate all the great pictures. I really enjoyed following the outside the box aspects of this build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 I was going to stick to my guns calling them rays...but you have a couple of shots with them going right through the rays. So I'm back to- beats me! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 This is the basis of the conversation we had. It's just strange.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 8 hours ago, Prostheta said: This is the basis of the conversation we had. It's just strange.... (Eerie background music ... and Rod Serling’s voice saying, “There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call the Twilight Zone.”) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoltar Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 If Ironman decided to buy himself a guitar, I reckon he'd go for this one. Looks great, well done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 That is a very special looking guitar Wonderful stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Fifth application of Odie's Oil, and it's probably not going to make much difference to put on more. This is not Tung Oil or TruOil ... it's not made to build up and fill the grain which is fine for me. Except ... part of me wants to know what a few coats of opaque-ish amber lacquer would look like. Anyone know if Odie's Oil can be lacquered? (for future reference) Did string it up to test intonation, and was relieved to find that bass E was good, but very close to the saddle spring binding. I knew that the Hipshot 11 degree was a bit shallow for my 7th fret perpendicular multiscale, but the 18 degree too much angle. 15 degree would have been perfect, but no such animal available. Next time (?!?) I know what to do ... Live (build) and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Another Padauk Tone Enhancement Contraption in the works ... ... looks like Mt. Vesuvius! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 It might well be that Odie's Oil can be mixed with a varnish to make a building oil or wiping oil varnish of sorts. You would of course have to refer to the manufacturer for suggestions in that regard. It would remove some of the benefits, such as it being food safe, shelf life and the like, but a good question to ask even for reference and understanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 We~l~l, Mt. Vesuvius erupted and turned to ash. Too much heat from the plug cutter, me guesses. I made another using a long 2-3mm taper drill bit drilled halfway into a chunk of Padauk, then with the drill spinning put it against the belt sander. No smoke, no drama, new Mt. Vesuvius in 2 minutes ... this one not crispy. This is my Controls Cavity Cover Magnetic Attachment Pole Height Adjuster Pedestal. No kidding. Using a single neodymium 5mm magnet to hold the Padauk controls cavity cover, like my two Chinaberry basses ... but this one is much, much cooler! Just get the cover about an inch away, and it snaps in place very nicely. Push the left corner and it pops right off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Nice. Having finally tried magnets for the cavity cover, I can't ever imagine doing it another way. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Now that's a new way of doing it! I usually sink holes into the surround and cover, epoxy magnets onto the cover and either use magnets in the body also, or machine bolts in threaded inserts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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