ShatnersBassoon Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 Definitely giving it a try. I used a planing jig of sorts in my Tele build, but I like the thought of doing the thicknessing and the transition all in one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 Bit disappointed with the celluloid, this is it sanded back to 320 and it’s barely visible unless the wood is wet/finished, I guess I picked the wrong style for ebony. Necks in though, we’ll see what that looks like tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 10, 2019 Report Share Posted April 10, 2019 If you polish it up even higher, and oil the ebony, I expect it will show up quite a bit better. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 11, 2019 Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 What Scott said. Celluloid is plastic which means it's basically the same stuff as a polyurethane finish. Imagine sanding a lacquered surface to 320! If you're going to oil the headstock, apply the oil with wet'n'dry paper or a fine grit plastic abrasive. For lacquer, try sanding the inlay only to some 2000 grit or even higher. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 You're both right of course, I don't know why I didn't think of that, I'll sand it up higher in the grits and see what I can get it to look like. Ta. I haven't decided how I'm going to finish it yet. I want to oil the neck. But I was thinking I might use gloss poly on the body and headstock, Will do some testers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2019 Neck glue glue up was a success, got my bridge holes drill and test fitted. Lots of sanding since then, including raising the grain ready for stain here’s a tester I’ve been working on. I’ve been following BigD on YouTube and attempting to follow what he’s been doing on his prs refin job. With that, I’ve used a spray can sanding sealer which is producing much better results than the brush on stuff, even though it’s the same stuff, there is no colour being wiped away so it’s looking much more vibrant. My only real concern is sanding through it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShatnersBassoon Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said: Neck glue glue up was a success, got my bridge holes drill and test fitted. Lots of sanding since then, including raising the grain ready for stain here’s a tester I’ve been working on. I’ve been following BigD on YouTube and attempting to follow what he’s been doing on his prs refin job. With that, I’ve used a spray can sanding sealer which is producing much better results than the brush on stuff, even though it’s the same stuff, there is no colour being wiped away so it’s looking much more vibrant. My only real concern is sanding through it! Lovely stuff. I love Big D’s videos, his tonewood reviews are great! I also love Highline guitars on YouTube. A tonne of great tips, especially when it comes to finishing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 10 hours ago, ShatnersBassoon said: Lovely stuff. I love Big D’s videos, his tonewood reviews are great! I also love Highline guitars on YouTube. A tonne of great tips, especially when it comes to finishing. I've found Highline's videos very useful too. I used his oil paint and thinners method to stain and finish the blue DC last year. I've found his videos to be a bit click baity lately though and I swear he has shares in I can't believe it's not lacquer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 12 hours ago, ADFinlayson said: Neck glue glue up was a success, got my bridge holes drill and test fitted. Lots of sanding since then, including raising the grain ready for stain here’s a tester I’ve been working on. I’ve been following BigD on YouTube and attempting to follow what he’s been doing on his prs refin job. With that, I’ve used a spray can sanding sealer which is producing much better results than the brush on stuff, even though it’s the same stuff, there is no colour being wiped away so it’s looking much more vibrant. My only real concern is sanding through it! so red then, a? this is gonna be a ladykiller. before you started this thread I was thinking "I wonder why you don't see so many prs single cuts being built" and now I'm asking that even more. Looks really great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 33 minutes ago, mistermikev said: I wonder why you don't see so many prs single cuts being built" and now I'm asking that even more. That raised another question in my head: What are the main differences in single cut guitars re dimensions? I mean, there's quite a bunch of them around starting from LP to PRS to Gretsh Jets to mention a few. To me it looks like Gretsh has a wider upper bout and the shoulder line of PRS is a little perkier, but other than that? Anyone got blueprints stacked? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 25 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: That raised another question in my head: What are the main differences in single cut guitars re dimensions? I mean, there's quite a bunch of them around starting from LP to PRS to Gretsh Jets to mention a few. To me it looks like Gretsh has a wider upper bout and the shoulder line of PRS is a little perkier, but other than that? Anyone got blueprints stacked? google for electricherald or gitarrebassbau... that's about all I can tell you on the subject! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 15 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: That raised another question in my head: What are the main differences in single cut guitars re dimensions? I mean, there's quite a bunch of them around starting from LP to PRS to Gretsh Jets to mention a few. To me it looks like Gretsh has a wider upper bout and the shoulder line of PRS is a little perkier, but other than that? Anyone got blueprints stacked? Most PRS single cuts are either 24.5" or 24.594" scale so slightly shorter than gibbos, they're also slightly thinner and the cap is slightly thinner so the carve shallower but they have a bit of a back carve the gibbos don't have, they normally have the PRS signature faux binding too. They have better access to the 22nd fret than gibbos as the tenon is slightly longer and they have that access carve. This one varies slightly from PRS, firstly its 24 frets so I've moved the tenon out slightly so the 24th is where the 22nd would be, you can see in some of the pics that the tenon barely protrudes into the pickup cavity because I've moved it out and the fretboard reaches further up the tenon. This is also a 25" scale (so I can downtune), so although the neck is slightly further out, the bridge is pretty much in the same place. Other differences on mine is that the back is carved so the body is fairly thin on the very edge and I've rounded off the body under the tenon to make better access. I'm also doing a mish-mash of wiring on this one. Single cuts normally have 2 vols, 2 tones and the toggle on the upper horn. I've having 1 vol, 1 tone and 2 coiltap switches with the toggle in the standard gibbo position. The plan is to wire the pickups to the mini toggles (which I think can be done if using double post switches) then the 2 mini toggles will go out to the switch and a live and earth coming back from the switch to the volume. I'm hoping I can manage with 2 live wires from the toggles and then a metal braided wire to contain the live and earth from the switch all wrapped tighly together, I guess that isn't that dissimilar to wiring 2 volumes to a switch on a les paul. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 Thank you both, lots of information there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 as I understand it... gibson advertises 24.75 but that is at the string(I have no idea how this would make sense as the frets would not change based on the string)... the real scale is 24.625... so lot closer to prs than one might think. Honestly I grew up playing a gibson scale but much prefer the prs 25"... those little tiny frets at the top are difficult for ol' sausage fingers here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 19 minutes ago, mistermikev said: as I understand it... gibson advertises 24.75 but that is at the string(I have no idea how this would make sense as the frets would not change based on the string)... the real scale is 24.625... so lot closer to prs than one might think. Honestly I grew up playing a gibson scale but much prefer the prs 25"... those little tiny frets at the top are difficult for ol' sausage fingers here! There is so little difference in terms of fret spacing anyway, the blue DC I did was 25" scale yet had inlays that I cut using a 59' les paul plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 10 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: There is so little difference in terms of fret spacing anyway, the blue DC I did was 25" scale yet had inlays that I cut using a 59' les paul plan 3/8" spaced out over 22 frets... probably doesn't seem like much... but I swear I feel it. there is also the perspective that reaching to the 1st fret is now 3/8" closer/farther. The the difference in tension could play a subliminal role in that. Not a huge difference, but then when you look at a strat vs a les paul... that's really only 7/8" difference spread over 22 frets. that said, I wouldn't wager that if you blindfolded me and put either in my hands that I could consistently identify which is which! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 8 minutes ago, mistermikev said: 3/8" spaced out over 22 frets... probably doesn't seem like much... but I swear I feel it. there is also the perspective that reaching to the 1st fret is now 3/8" closer/farther. The the difference in tension could play a subliminal role in that. Not a huge difference, but then when you look at a strat vs a les paul... that's really only 7/8" difference spread over 22 frets. that said, I wouldn't wager that if you blindfolded me and put either in my hands that I could consistently identify which is which! The largest contributing factor (I think) to the feel of say a les paul and a prs is the fact that the neck is much further out on a prs so you're playing further away from you. There is a worst of difference in feel between a custom 22 and custom 24 (even though they're the same scale) just because the nut and frets are 2 frets further away so the players whole body positions has to change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 16 minutes ago, mistermikev said: doesn't seem like much... but I swear I feel it Our senses are more accurate than we can imagine. Don't you use your fingers to "see" any imperfections in the curves of your builds? They most likely are much more subtle than the fret width. 8 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: the neck is much further out on a prs so you're playing further away from you. There is a worst of difference in feel between a custom 22 and custom 24 (even though they're the same scale) just because the nut and frets are 2 frets further away so the players whole body positions has to change I can confirm that, the double cut I built has a very easy access up to the end since the cut is on the 23th fret compared to that of the other one being on the 20th. Playing rhythm with open string chords really requires some stretching out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 12, 2019 Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 45 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: The largest contributing factor (I think) to the feel of say a les paul and a prs is the fact that the neck is much further out on a prs so you're playing further away from you. There is a worst of difference in feel between a custom 22 and custom 24 (even though they're the same scale) just because the nut and frets are 2 frets further away so the players whole body positions has to change that certainly makes a dif... I have a 24fret sg and I grew up playing an sg90 (also 24fret sg)... I also have a dillion prs 24 clone... that dillion just feels like home to me. I love an sg and I can def get good access to the 24th on it... but the dillion just feels so much more comfy up near the 24. also have a jem 77fp and that also has amazing access at the 24 plus scalloped frets... still the dillion fits me best. I'm sure the difference is a combo of all things... the sg has a lot of body after the bridge but so does the dillion. then again who knows... up until recently I thought my blue tele was super light and it's 7+lbs. 32 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Our senses are more accurate than we can imagine. Don't you use your fingers to "see" any imperfections in the curves of your builds? They most likely are much more subtle than the fret width. I can confirm that, the double cut I built has a very easy access up to the end since the cut is on the 23th fret compared to that of the other one being on the 20th. Playing rhythm with open string chords really requires some stretching out! this is true and a good point. I play bass so I'm used to a really long reach but I hear you... the shorter reach def feels more comfy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2019 4 hours ago, mistermikev said: so red then, a? this is gonna be a ladykiller. before you started this thread I was thinking "I wonder why you don't see so many prs single cuts being built" and now I'm asking that even more. Looks really great. It's my fave colour for cars and guitars 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Started staining. Went all black with waterbased dye first, this was a bit of a PITA, found so many scratches that I couldn't see while I was wetting it and sanding back to raise the grain even while inspecting under the spotlight. So I had to sand back with 100 grit in several places and work my way back up, 100, 150, 240 to 320 then spot stain again and blend Left the black to dry over night then knocked it back with 320 first thing this morning, found even more scratches to fix up so did a bit more spot staining and let it dry while I mowed the lawn. I couldn't get it knocked back consistently no matter how much I sanded but when I referred back to the pics I took of the wetted top before staining, it's fairly consistent with the colour of the wood so I think the top is always going to be on the rustic side. Then gave it 2 coats of waterbased red, I added a tiny drop of black to darken it up slightly because the tester had a bit of a pinkish hue that I wasn't keen on. Looking a bit patchy at the moment as it's drying, I'm hoping a rub down with 0000 wire wool will soften it up a bit, then I've going to give it a coat of alcahol based red, before more wire wool and sealing. Staining around the neck was difficult to get the stain butt up to the edge of the neck while it was taped off, but the green patch between the pickups has disappeared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted April 14, 2019 Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 Now it's looking super metal. Are you going to try sanding back the denser areas or is that the way the grain and figure is? That stone wall is SO English! We don't have residential stone work like that here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 1 hour ago, komodo said: Now it's looking super metal. Are you going to try sanding back the denser areas or is that the way the grain and figure is? That stone wall is SO English! We don't have residential stone work like that here. I don’t think I can do much to make the tones more consistent, if you look at an earlier image where I just wet the grain, the darker areas of black are fairly consistent with the unstained wood. I knocked it back as much as I could with 320 but it wouldn’t go any lighter In some areas. I’ve since added a few coats of alcohol based red stain which has made it pop a bit more, need to rub it back again with wire wool before sealing. yes it’s Cotswold stone, very English indeed. The outside of my house and garage is all Cotswold stone they the grey blocks are where the garage is joined with the kitchen. It’s nice but we are possibly moving soon, a massive upheaval that I’m not looking forward to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted April 14, 2019 Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 24 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said: I don’t think I can do much to make the tones more consistent, if you look at an earlier image where I just wet the grain, the darker areas of black are fairly consistent with the unstained wood. I knocked it back as much as I could with 320 but it wouldn’t go any lighter In some areas. I’ve since added a few coats of alcohol based red stain which has made it pop a bit more, need to rub it back again with wire wool before sealing. yes it’s Cotswold stone, very English indeed. The outside of my house and garage is all Cotswold stone they the grey blocks are where the garage is joined with the kitchen. It’s nice but we are possibly moving soon, a massive upheaval that I’m not looking forward to! looks great! I think once you start putting clear on it it will really come alive. I rather like how it accentuates the carve. Nice work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted April 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2019 Just now, mistermikev said: looks great! I think once you start putting clear on it it will really come alive. I rather like how it accentuates the carve. Nice work! Happy accident 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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