komodo Posted September 16, 2020 Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 9 hours ago, Prostheta said: From what I remember, isn't obsidian glass the same with fracture planes in one dimension through the crystal? Well, that goes over my head. I do know that obsidian edges are one of if not the sharpest edge known to man. Surgeons still use flakes mounted in a clamp. I've read that they can cut cells in two, and reduce scarring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 So if they cut me in half, I would have little to no scarring? Noice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 16, 2020 Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 that nut against those frets... wow. looks sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted September 17, 2020 Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 10 hours ago, komodo said: Well, that goes over my head. I do know that obsidian edges are one of if not the sharpest edge known to man. Surgeons still use flakes mounted in a clamp. I've read that they can cut cells in two, and reduce scarring. Former geologist here. Obsidian in not crystalline. It is the nature of the silica bond that allows for such a sharp and fairly durable edge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2020 As somebody who loves knowledge and geeks out on subjects, this makes my morning coffee that much more fun. I also came across references to pre-Inca civilisation brain surgery being more successful than that until the 20th century, mostly down to quality of work and infection prevention, coupled with the use of Obsidian implements. Mesoamerican and south American civilisations were amazingly advanced and so under-represented in the human timeline. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 Just finishing up the electronics and rear control plates (hence the peeking blue tape). Nobody gets to mention the wonky 7th fret under threat of floating home, kid. Plays really nicely, the active electronics make the fundamental very detailed rather than flabby. Currently figuring out whether I want to have a single switch for the varitone in/out or an additional one for series/parallel, coil cut, etc. This is a lot of bass. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 Nice! Good to see a conclusion to one of your builds! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 20 minutes ago, ScottR said: Nice! Good to see a conclusion to one of your builds! SR I know right? I feel so weird in that I enjoy the process of design/development/problem-solving more than the end result. I just need to locate some good quality axial capacitors for the rotary tone filter in the right range. It works with that in isolation, and boy does "work" feel like an understatement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiremu Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 Not sure if you have and I missed it, but did you post a photo of finished result? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 I haven't yet, no. The bass is functionally complete and plays really nicely. I haven't posted finished pics yet as I need to locate some set screws of the correct length for the custom control knobs, plus the brass rear cavity covers need brushing and sealing with shellac or lacquer. The electronics are complete other than the rotary varitone, which is proving a conundrum as usual. The objective with that is to neatly stack the components around the switch body so that it is both aesthetically pleasing, neat and well-made. The originals in the Aria Pro II basses were good, if a little precarious. The modern reissue SB-1000 basses have varitones that are less than ideal in many respects, so I really wanted to priorities making everything as good as it could ever have been. I will follow up, as I want to GOTM this bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zuma Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 It's taken me days, and here I am, at the end of this wonderful thread. Any final updates or pretty pics?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 24 Author Report Share Posted May 24 Hei Zuma! Odd seeing you here my friend There's nothing more to add at this stage until I find clarity of mind enough to assemble the varitone. Given that I spent a LOT on the rotary switch (they're about $100 now) I want it to be visually perfect and arranged as well as it can be. The originals were surprisingly durable in spite of their haphazard appearance, so I need to go four better. Otherwise, the bass has broken in really nicely. It's about time to give the frets a topping and crowning again now that the neck has shifted ever so slightly from being wood into a strung instrument. I also need to take making half a mm off the bottom of the nut to ensure good pressure over the zero fret. For anybody else reading, Zuma is a real old school SB-1000 enthusiast who has helped and encouraged me over the years with this sort of Aria Pro II madness. Blame him! haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zuma Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 Wow, that is expensive. You can get Stellartone's ToneStyler for $129! Not the same thing, but at least it's ready to go. I've always wanted to try one of those should I come across a basket case SB someday. Stellartone on Reverb Interesting, so now that the wood has settled, a quick fret leveling is in order? I just helped a friend coordinate a repair where his Wal received a brand new ebony fingerboard. It surprised me that there were still a couple of high spots. It should have been obvious. That ebony was still moving! The work was done by a very experienced luthier, so I'll just assume the work was spot-on. I certainly accept the blame for any Aria lunacy! I have two SB-1000s at the moment. One will likely be restored back to its original electronics, and the other (Padouk red one) remains my longtime companion. I also have an SB1010, and boy, do I wish I could get a brass bridge for it even if it's just for looks. Otherwise, it's also fabulous. Lastly, I'm on the brink of acquiring a (faded!) white SB Elite II. I look forward to half a mm less brass in your nut, and clarity in your vari. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 12 minutes ago, Zuma said: It should have been obvious. That ebony was still moving! That reminds me of an order from Madinter, Spain: the ebony fretboard blank was wrapped in cling film and it was literally dripping wet! As you're on the other side of the Pond, Madinter is one of the goto guitar wood and tool vendors in Europe so one might expect their timber to be at least semi-dry without paying the extra for dried-dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zuma Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 Actual water in there? Crazy! Sounds like Madinter is your StewMac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 They're actually a StewMac reseller! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 24 Author Report Share Posted May 24 A new build neck should ease evenly into an upbow under string tension, but with wood being wood and the cross section changing over the length, anything can happen. There's no specific issues as such, I just know I can knock those frets down a little better and get a better action from it. I couldn't justify buying in a third party device that I could build myself. That, and I want to see how good the filter sounds with far better caps than the original. Probably not that much, but part of the enjoyment is wallowing in one's own mental investment! Haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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