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RR/ESP Aero inspired neckthrough project


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Do you think you have golden ears? :D Testing the difference between a neckthrough and a bolt-on. Same woods, pickups, tuners, nut material. Different frets and bridge.

One guitar is:
25.5" scale telecaster, one-piece maple neck, ash body.
Schaller tune-o-matic bridge, graphtech nut, Schaller tuners, EMG 81.

Other guitar is:
25.5" scale neckthrough, one-piece maple neck, ash wings.
Hipshot bridge, graphtech nut, Schaller tuners, EMG 81.

There is a difference you can hear, but subtle. I can post the match eq frequency comparison later.
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Damn, should've given me a shout! Did you see my adventures in casting resin with luminescent powders? Tomasz in Poland at chaostrade.eu has tons of different grades that can be bought to suit the end purpose. I have a bunch of his M-JNW450 aluminium strontate which is bright as all hell when fired up with a blacklight, however the L-JNW500 is probably as strong as you can get without significant crashing.

https://chaostrade.eu/Comparison-table-of-luminescent-pigments

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Thanks!

Takeaways:

1. I'll never ever again do a satin white nitro finish. :D Seriously though, there's a local paint shop that will do it for me for a hundred euros. I paid more for the rattle cans on this.

2. Slowly is better than fast. But that's a given.

3. Got the string ferrules lined up nicely. First drilled from the top with forstner tipped bits so that it just barely comes through. Then did the ferrules on a line drawn between the outermost ones, ignoring if the string hole is centered or not.

Not much went wrong on this build, pretty simple design and not that much different workflow wise vs. bolt on.

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Yeah, rattlecans get expensive very quickly and have a lot of disadvantages. I could do with a friendly paintshop as well really. With string-through locations, it's worth completely ignoring them lining up. As long as you can locate them top and back, drilling just over halfway through and accepting any slight misalignment as a given is fine. I usually recommend using a twist drill run backwards to smooth out the transition between the back hole and the front so that strings don't hang up on insertion. That's hardly ever really needed though.

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24 minutes ago, nakedzen said:

Thanks Mike! It was a real pita to get the white finished. 😅

i bet.  the one time I did off white it was hard.   of course I paint in a temp greenhouse outside which doesn't help... but little fuzzies kept making me sand back and do more coats!  i imagine alpine white was even worse.  bravo and a great build.

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16 hours ago, mistermikev said:

i bet.  the one time I did off white it was hard.   of course I paint in a temp greenhouse outside which doesn't help... but little fuzzies kept making me sand back and do more coats!  i imagine alpine white was even worse.  bravo and a great build.

Thanks Mike. It was really a pain. I started thinking maybe it's better to get it painted by the local auto shop. Would've been cheaper than the 8 rattle cans of nitro at least!

At least it felt like the satin white surface was sucking in dust from the air. Once I thought it was finally done, then the next day I saw little black spots that wouldn't sand out. Only after putting a coat of clear it stopped sucking dirt in. 😅

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