Neck Bolts & Threaded inserts

[krazyderek]

I know a couple of people have been interested in these, from all the links previously posted, and places i found on my own, Home Depot was actually the cheapest place to get the bolts and inserts for doing neck joints.

7.70$ got me 16 threaded inserts (0.20 each) and 25 bolts (0.15 each)

they're 10-24 threads just under 1/2" long inserts requiring 5/16 pilot

Just thought i'd share

[VanKirk]

Sweet!

Thanks, Derek.

Do these bolts need a ferrule or can they go directly into the neck?

[jbkim]

What metal are the inserts? Stainless steel? Heh, might as well ask the same for the bolts . I ask because I seem to recall someone posted that you'd need to use petroleum jelly if the both bolt and insert are SS.

[Slaughthammer]

i used such things to screw my tremolo-post in the body, but they were made from brass. works fine for me. i like that they are adjustable aftern putting them in the wood.

[Guitarfrenzy]

Those should work good, the ones I've been using have been based on what kind that was used in an old Westone guitar I have.

They looked just like theWoodworker's Supply Hex-drive Threaded Inserts D they sell. I'm thinking the little flanges on them help hold in better, but not really sure, I just know that they was used on a guitar that I own so I figured you couldn't go wrong using something another guitar company used. I'm sure it probably doesn't even matter, but thought I'd show the ones I use.

[krazyderek]

cool, i looked at those, i think they were about the same price, but the threaded area for bolts is about the same.... and i liked the outer threads on mine a bit more

[GregP]

How are the inserts... er... inserted? I'm imagining you just pre-drill to the size of the shaft (NOT including the threads) and then screw them in with a large flathead screwdriver...? Could somebody confirm or refute this guess?

Greg

[skibum5545]

Yep, that's about right. Just make sure it goes in straight, I had a LOT of trouble with that when using them on my bass. I found that the brass inserts simply broke when screwing them in, but the stainless ones worked fine.

I ended up just tapping holes directly into the rock maple with a 10-24 tap!

Good luck!

[GregP]

What's a tap?

[Devon Headen]

A piece of metal that (mostly) machinists use to make threads of a particular size.

[westhemann]

the counterpart to a die

[GregP]

Soo.... not something I'd find lying around at home, or cheap at Home Depot.

Greg

(Er... I guess I should just Google for it. <chuckle>)

[krazyderek]

i used a screw that already had 2 inserts on it... the third one was the only one being threaded into the wood, then i used a cross screw driver (ya i don't know the right name) and used my cordless drill to push down and create a dent in the wood for starting the thread, then on the slowest setting and 5 / 20 power i screwed the insert in, reversed the drill to take the screw (with 2 inserts on it) out and just leave one insert in the hole...

i'm not sure what material they are, but i might keep that grease tip in mind

[erikbojerik]

Those should work good, the ones I've been using have been based on what kind that was used in an old Westone guitar I have.

I just got some of these from the Depot (the upper ones) and used them for the solid-body travel guitar I'm working on, where the neck will come on and off a lot. To install the inserts I chucked a straight hex key into a drill press and manually turned it with my hand while pressing down. Went in dead straight.

[GregP]

THAT's creativity and thinking outside the box for you. Who would've thought of manually turning a drill press? Great idea; I'll have to remember that one for other tasks, too.

Greg

[Slaughthammer]

on this one, i took a screw with a hex head (is it called so?) put two nuts on it and lockend them to each other and than turned that screw in the insert an than i used a pretty long hex-bit to guide the screw and a wrench to turn the screw. sounds complicated but it is much easier to do. they came almost perfectly straight in the wood.

[daveq]

I have used the WoodCraft inserts with stainless bolts. I only used it for a couple of months until I sprayed lacquer on it. When it's buffed out, I'll throw it back together again. I really don't expect any trouble but time will tell I guess. I was surprised to hear someone actually broke a brass insert .

To install them, I use a 2 inch piece of wood with a hole drilled through it. On the bottom, I drilled a larger hole - big enough for the insert to fit into. The rest of the hole is the size of the shaft of the installation tool (also sold at WoodCraft). I placed the tool in the block, screwed the insert onto it, then positioned it over the hole. Always countersink the hole in the neck to avoid tearing out when using this type of insert. The block holds the tool perpendicular to the neck while driving the insert in. It's very easy to do.

I really love the sound of that guitar a lot. I can't tell if the inserts have anything to do with it but they are really great to have on softer wood like limba or mahagony.

[GregP]

I had a hard time visualizing what you were doing at first, Dave, but with a bit of focus and concentration, I "got" it. Good tip!

I'm really starting to think inserts will be the way to go.

Greg

[VanKirk]

I wanted to use inserts and bolts on my tele-ish project so I could have a more contoured heel on my bolt-on neck. I should be OK as long as I don't drill into the truss rod or top of the fretboard.

Will I need ferrules or can I just use the bolts alone? Maybe just a washer instead of a ferrule?

I'm a little worried to tear up the wood without some kind of washer or ferrule.

Anyone have any advice?

[westhemann]

use the ferrules...it will keep the wood from splitting and will look better than a washer

[Guitarfrenzy]

use the ferrules...it will keep the wood from splitting and will look better than a washer

Total agree with you on this. I'd rather be safe than sorry. And I do really like using threaded inserts instead of just doing like Fender does and bolting straight to the neck wood. It just makes your neck more stable and keeps it from shifting like a typical bolt on. But you need to be more accurate with how and where you mount the threaded inserts, because you have to have the holes in the back of the body neck pocket perfectly inline with where inserts are installed or you won't be too happy.. lol

[Southpa]

I have a whole mess of those inserts laying around. I was tossing out someones old cabinet made of particle board and found out what was holding the whole thing together. After stripping the cabinet entirely I wound up with about 50 inserts and matching screws. Not stainless but who cares? Its too bad that all I'm building these days are neck thrus.

[GregP]

I know at least one forum member who could make use of 4 or 8 of them. ;-)

His name starts with "G" and ends with "reg".

Just as a hint.

(You had to know that was coming!) Of course, I haven't priced them at the hardware store, and they're likely cheaper than the postage would be. <chuckle>

Greg

[erikbojerik]

use the ferrules...it will keep the wood from splitting and will look better than a washer

Total agree with you on this. I'd rather be safe than sorry. And I do really like using threaded inserts instead of just doing like Fender does and bolting straight to the neck wood. It just makes your neck more stable and keeps it from shifting like a typical bolt on. But you need to be more accurate with how and where you mount the threaded inserts, because you have to have the holes in the back of the body neck pocket perfectly inline with where inserts are installed or you won't be too happy.. lol

Also not a bad idea to make sure the bolt heads are countersunk, especially if you're contouring the neck heel. So check the thickness of the heel pocket with the ferrule length.

I used washers on mine, for that reason (and I had them lying around).

Also...the Fender method allows you to use the neck wood for the screws to bite into until the neck becomes too unstable; THEN you can sink some inserts.