moojiefulagin Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 i know there are a million posts on it, but when you say ca glue is superglue, do you mean its the same stuff that comes in those tiny "krazy glue" squeeze things? would a couple of those work for pore filling? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 yeah it's the same stuff...i am not sure of the quality difference(if any)between that and the stuff you buy at stewmac,for example...but the stewmac stuff is more acrid smelling,so i guess it is better(i know,not a very logical assumption,but hey) but for pore filling i am quite sure the stuff in the tubes is fine,there is just not very much of it in those tubes,and you don't have the broader choice of consistency like you do at stewmac i use the medium consistency for just about everything...it wicks in well without running all the way through so bad as the thin stuff...and the gel isn't worth a damn,near as i can tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moojiefulagin Posted May 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 Thanks thats what i figured. i appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 I ended up buying the Instant Adhesive Starter Package which has a variety of ca glue in it for a much cheaper price. Which includes.. Four bottle set includes: #10 Thin instant adhesive, 2-ounce bottle #20 Medium instant adhesive, 2-ounce bottle #20-X Brush-on instant adhesive, 5-gram bottle Accelerator, 2-ounce bottle Instructions There are uses for each type and the instructions will tell explain when and where to use each one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truerussian558 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 ive noticed that ca takes upwards of 1 minute to settle in wood, and longer to dry. so i dont know how instant it is (not like its effects on plastic and fingertips) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 ive noticed that ca takes upwards of 1 minute to settle in wood, and longer to dry. so i dont know how instant it is (not like its effects on plastic and fingertips) yeah well that is just a name i guess...it actually takes about 3 or 4 minutes to harden on fret ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 Three times last week, i either: glued two fingers together, glued three fingers together, or glued two fingers to the back of a neck. Be careful. It really sucks having to cut a layer of skin off to remove yourself from a customers guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 ive noticed that ca takes upwards of 1 minute to settle in wood, and longer to dry. so i dont know how instant it is (not like its effects on plastic and fingertips) Supposedly, it takes 24 hours for it to reach a FULL bond. But it's still quite a strong bond after just a couple minutes. I'm still not sure if I like StewMacs latest super-glues. I do like that the bottle is easy to squeeze. Some of those little bottles you get from the local hardware store are in these really hard little plastic bottles, that you can't squeeze. as for using it as a pore filler, I think you better do some research on that. I think I've heard that most finishes won't stick to super-glue. Again, double-check that because I'm not sure. Also, super-glue is pretty expensive to use where you could be using some other kind of glue/filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 as for using it as a pore filler, I think you better do some research on that. I think I've heard that most finishes won't stick to super-glue. Again, double-check that because I'm not sure. seems to work well for drak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 Well, I don't know where I had read about that ( that super-glue sticks to dry finish, but wet finish doesn't stick too well to dry super-glue), but I just did a google newsgroup search and this is pretty much the same thing : "I recently refinished a guitar of mine and tried to use a Dan Erlewine technique of using superglue for filling small cracks around where the binding wasn't originally glued in (or filled in) very well. Since the "cracks" between the binding and guitar top were very thin (could just get the tip of an exacto knife in) I decided to use the superglue technique. Well, it filled it in OK but when I added the lacquer top coats, the lacquer would not adhere to the superglue. It left tiny little dull spots (fisheyes?) that would not take the lacquer and would not buff out. I finally to decided to sand it back down to the bare wood dig out the super glue and fill in with something else. What should I use here? Glue/sawdust mix? Thinned epoxy? A different kind of superglue? New bindings?" Maybe certain techniques like not sanding it too smooth, etc, might be the key to making it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 It left tiny little dull spots (fisheyes?) that would not take the lacquer and would not buff out. yeah that is an inexperienced guy i think...the fact that he calls that a fisheye shows that what he is talking about is that superglue shows up under laquer as a "dull spot" as he called it...i believe drak said he entirely coated the bodies in superglue,and was careful not to sand through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 So you can't just use superglue as a grain/pore filler and then clearcoat with laquer on top of that I guess. I like the wet look on my guitars. I guess I'll just stick to using superglue for minor repairs then. Just the other day I was sanding the SG and broke a sizable chip off one of the horns. I glued it back on but in the process firmly glued my index and thumb together, . My friend's parents were visiting and I had to say, "sorry, can't shake your hand, just glued my fingers together". I little soaking in acetone got them apart ok. The good part about superglue is the kwik drying, 5 minutes later I was back to sanding and you wouldn't even know a piece broke off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 This Tele has been completely pore-filled and levelled, both front and back, with Hot Stuff CA superglue, then lacquered over. It certainly works. The poor lad with the binding issue probably didn't hit it w/ a little sandpaper first, so there was no physical bond formed between the CA and lac when he shot his lacquer over it. Same thing would have happened had he shot his lac over almost any other type of finish, had it been CA or poly or any other dissimilar finish. You have to scuff-sand 2 dissimilar finishes so they form a physical bond w/ each other when one is applied over the other. If you tried to shoot poly over poly after the 'window' has passed and the first coat has cured, the same thing would happen, delamination sooner or later, because the fresh coat had nothing to adhere, or 'bite' into. His lac probably didn't bite into the CA. It's not expensive either, I can get multiple bodies, front and back, out of 1 bottle easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 I found a place that sells 16 oz bottles for thirty some odd dollars. I'll post it when I get on the other computer if you're interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Fruit Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 Three times last week, i either: glued two fingers together, glued three fingers together, or glued two fingers to the back of a neck. Be careful. It really sucks having to cut a layer of skin off to remove yourself from a customers guitar. Woah, put that knife down mate. There is a MUCH easier and much more painless way to do this. Coke. if you get your fingers stuck together, stick them into some coke or cola and magically they come apart! seriously. Maybe not so useful on a guitar neck, but hey, it saves some skin! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truerussian558 Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 kinda creepy, but yet we still drink it. , concentrated coca cola is considered a chemical agent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsl602000 Posted June 13, 2004 Report Share Posted June 13, 2004 So you can't just use superglue as a grain/pore filler and then clearcoat with laquer on top of that I guess yes you can. My spalt strat was done that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 just to share...i tried 2 part epoxy on my current project,and the stuff is great...it builds up thicker and faster than super glue and gets hard as a rock,plus it tends to level itself as it dries because it flows for over an hour before it stiffens not saying that it is better...but i like it alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Jabsco Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 Hey, i just got some "super tite-bond wood glue" from lowes for 5 bucks. I heard titebond was good and i saw that when i was shopping for other stuff so i picked it up. Is that the right kind for laminating and such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 Hey, i just got some "super tite-bond wood glue" from lowes for 5 bucks. I heard titebond was good and i saw that when i was shopping for other stuff so i picked it up. Is that the right kind for laminating and such? titebond is what i use...i don't know what "super" titebond is but i am sure it will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted June 14, 2004 Report Share Posted June 14, 2004 The ca's that you get at a hobby shop are a much higher quality than the "Super Glue" brands. Drak mentioned Hot Stuff there are many others and usually comperable house brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdw3332 Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 I've used it on Spalted Maple and Zebrawood (with lessons from Drak). Worked well every time under lacquer. The package from Stew-Mac is a pretty good buy. Don't use the accelerator if you are using CA for sealing - it will tend to foam up. It is great when you want to glue two things together and have an instant, strong bond. I'm pretty sure Rocklers and Woodcrafters sell there own brands of it in three viscosities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 Hey, Wes, did you have any trouble sanding back that epoxy? I've been wanting to try it since I saw a guy using it to do some amazing repairs on a lunched SeaDoo, but he said it was really a pain to sand out, and he's got one serious pneumatic rotary sander. Did it give you any problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 I can be a bit tough to sand, but you shouldn't have any sanding to do, because the best technique with epoxy involves squeege-ing it into the grain with a stiff spatula, then scraping away any extra before it cures. I did this on the last guitar, and it worked very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 16, 2004 Report Share Posted June 16, 2004 Like Coen, I've also got on the spalted maple bandwagon, and for me the CA was critical (I used Zap-A-Gap CA+ from Michael's craft store). The problem with spalt is that the wood hardness across the grain varies tremendously, it is impossible to sand it flat because the hard spots stay high and the soft spots sand deeper, and it gets worse the more you sand. Once I put on 2 coats of CA, I was able to sand down the hard & high spots while the low spots stayed put. Once everything was level, I added one more coat, sanded flat with 220 grit, then applied 2 coats of sanding sealer. So far, so good. I used an entire 2 oz bottle for the first coat because the really soft parts of the spalt soak it up like crazy; the second bottle got me through the next 2 coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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