Maiden69

Yes thats the one. The advantage over the others suggested is that it will follow the radius of the armrest with the bottom of the cutter at the same angle as the armrest, instead of keeping it at a horizontal plane while the armrest is at an angle. I know that it is not as sturdy as the other ones, but the other ones will not follow the curve of the armrest with the cutter. The advantage of the Fleishman is that it touches just the edge while routing so that a carve top, archtop wouldn't be a problem but the cutter stays true to the line of the table, it doesn't follow the curve. I hope you understand this, because it is taking a lot to explain without hands on examples

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16098

I don't know, but I think that for what he wants, the only choice should be the Dremel one. I know it is not the most sturdy or hen all, but the small area that touches the body will make it perfect for keeping a straight line with the arm rest... other than that CNC. Now another idea could be to do a faux binding with the lacewood if it is a 1/4" drop top and just do a purfling with abalone.

Unless you are an oscilloscope or a spectrum analyzer I doubt you will hear any "tonal" difference. The bigger the gauge the more current it will be able to handle, other than that, anything above 16 should be good.

Nice top, very errr "PURPLE". Now one question, why would your machinist use a regular router bit on his CNC instead of a good downcut spiral bit that works much better with the CNC?

These are the quotes I think most people are replying to. You are basically saying that the tool is good for nothing, not exact words, but reading into it. last one to use, leaves lumps... To answer your last statement, it is not that is not needed, like rasps might not be needed, or sandpaper, it is that if used right it is an invaluable tool for removing stock fast, accurate and easily. All tools have their place, a rasp removes stock fast, but mostly on a small area at a time, while with the spoke you can go the entire length of the neck. In the end, I like to use all tools available, Only once I have use a spokeshave (thanks to Hyunsu), and I will be buying one as soon as taxes come over. Neck profile Body shaping http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC02399.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC02404.jpg One tool is not mentioned here and I liked a lot while working at Hyunsu's is a carving knife, this one he made from a broken file. Both the heel and the volute were shaped using it. It took me a while since this was MY FIRST neck, but while I carved both my heel and volute, he did an entire neck (except for final sanding). This was in less than an hour. I understand your point, but your first post was done unfounded and by personal opinion, a lot of bad advise has been given like that, and this is why most of the time, if I have limited experience I try to stay behind and wait until the most knowledgeable guys post to corroborate my ideas.

Very nice! I like the color, kinda like my first one!

Jeremy (LGM) used Createx for a while, so did DaveQ and me with no problems what so ever... Autoair is a better choice and there are a lot of "new" alternatives that are just a google search away. Createx are water based and dry fast and can be forced to dry with heat lamps with no problems like bubbles as other acrylic paints do. I have cleared them with nitro only but there should be no problem using any other type as long as it is completely dry.

Nice, bienvenido!

Looks nice, are you going to do the inside of the cut away like the actual PRS or leave it as is?

Make a photo print of that guitar and take it to a place where they match color with a laser matcher. Other than that, you can go to any auto paint store and use the color charts to match it.

Very nice work, I edited your post because we have a 1 pic per post rule unless you are doing a tutorial! And please don't do like other people have done and post 10 posts back to back with 1 pic each! , if your work is good people will actually click on your links!

Carvin

This one is shaping up nicely! I was waiting for you to post more progress I was watching it on your diary the other day!

Very nice, how you did the green... gray, airbrush flames, green candie and clear? I like that one, I would had done the flames more of a ghost flames but just for personal taste!

I'm assuming that you are not using automotive 2K paint from what you are explaining. If it is spray paint, most manufacturers will have a chemical bond. Others you have to sand. I think that 320 is a bit too much for any type of paint, and most sanding marks will be visible over the clear. What I have done and suggest everybody to do is to paint the base coat until it covers evenly and not a single coat more, if there are no imperfections, start with your clear. If you have a runs or a dry coat, just sand with 400, then shoot only 1 even pass or 2 if necessary to hide the sanding scratches and go to the clear. If you are painting with 2K, and are asking this questions, then you need to stop and re-evaluate the whole thing. Since this paint is not forgiving on any mistakes that you could do.

You can really answer this question your self. Does the grain looks like big holes that the liquid finish might seep into, or like the pores of your skin very small and tight? If they are big you need to grain fill and if they are not, then you don't.

Your first one turned out nice, only one thing I saw that took away from it was the taper of the neck. Take your time on this one! Ihope it turns out great!

Like above, all you need is a forstner. Throw away all the spade bits you have... well not really, but the forstner is a better choice. There are a few ways to do this, if you have a drill press, then you have it made, if not you can make a template (same like you do to rout a body or cavity) and drill in it at the angly you want, then just clamp it to the top of the body and use it to hold the bit while you start the hole. The hole saw idea sound good, buit not for the reason of not preventing chips, with a forstener there will be no chips (the spade sucks unless it is super sharp). But you will have to find one that is the same diameter as your forstner or the hole will have a step to it! Anyway it is a simple job as long as you take the time and precautions to do it!

Thanks!!! Same to you!

Set neck together, bolt on doesn't matter. Depends on how you set up, you can do front and back at the same time or separate I have sprayed with cans when it was about 25 degrees outside, but I was in a small shack with my dual 500w lamps hitting the guitar. But just follow the recomendations of the paint you are using to be safe

Yeah, made out of cardboard, ea tremolo come with one, and a drawing for the other systems.

what does that have to do with there not being enough wood behind the nut? im sayin when i scarf it, the scarf is right behind the nut, and where it is joined is the thinnest part, and isnt enough to make a scarf on Not that there will be not enough wood there, is just that you want that little extra wood right at the thinnest point. also some players complain about the volute because it "gets" in the way, and being that low, it will most definitely hit the hand while fretting on the 1st fret

That one looks nice, but I think that the neck needed to be about 1" farther out. Is like everything is too much into the center?

That my friend is why you are supposed to do a full size, or at least a right scale drawing.