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verhoevenc

GOTM Winner
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Everything posted by verhoevenc

  1. I can't say I know ANYTHING in the realms that could help you. But I did enjoy your site. Really fun to read through. I love innovation in the industry. Keep up the fun stuff! Chris
  2. I'm in love with the bottom one. Woods, crow sitting there, headstock, body shape, the works. This will be my favorite thing you've done. Hands down. Chris
  3. No offense, but I think is is HUGE overkill. Like Wes pointed out, there are potential hazards with using this as a material for templates. Also, the added weight probably makes them a little more difficult to handle, thus causing more risk. Also, I can't imagine what you paid to have is done... Why not MDF and hardboard? Doesn't melt, tends to work for most of us? Chris
  4. Given how they're quartered... As many acoustic sets as I can pull from them. Chris
  5. I hope you're happy curtisa! Because of you (and admittedly some others... but your thread was the final straw) this arrived today: Chris
  6. Those are burr bits, not spiral cutters. Don't get me wrong, they'll work perfectly fine. In some places I PREFER burrs. But you don't want to hog out a whole area with them. I'd recommend still having 1/8" and 1/16" spiral bits, and then switch to these at edge and tight places as needed. I say edges because burrs tend to cut slower than bits and I'm always weary right at the edges Good find though! Chris
  7. It's a partially ridiculous, partially amazing feeling when you have so many projects going in a tiny shop, you have to build a jig just to house your necks... and it doesn't even fit them all... Chris
  8. If you took detailed pictures along the way, or you have some paint left and some scraps, I think a video/photo tutorial on this type of finish is much needed. Chris
  9. I was given some swamp ash that I was told had borer beetles before. I froze it for 6 months in my freezer... that seemed to do that trick. Chris
  10. I use Rhino. Just finished up a killer neo-classical fanned fret headless design! I can't say enough fun things about Rhino and the ability it has to add precision to your designs. Chris
  11. When you open it up each coil will have a start and an end. RIght now they're connected to one another with lead wires and then only the start of one and the exit of hte other are sent down the wire. Disconnect that wire, install a 4-wire to all 4 lead wires coming off the coils (be careful as these leads are attached to VERY thin magnet wire wrapping the coil and you can easily break them). You also should be sure which lead is going where cause it will matter in the end as to whether you have two coils that both travel one direction (clockwise or counter), or opposing directions (which with the differring magnetic polarity in each coil is what causes your hum canceling). Chris
  12. These are the days I wish had a radial arm saw! Chris
  13. I gotta know what the one with the giant hex bolts sounds like! Lol Chris
  14. Power to ya! I can't stand going BACK and working on stuff. Drives me nuts. Congrats on the self control! Not to mention that guitar is funky and cool as heck! Looks slightly Zachary Guitars influenced... but I'll bite my tongue there hahaha. Chris
  15. If it makes you feel any better I had a guitar finished, was doing the fret level and got about halfway through that before I left my friend's shop. Since I spray there I asked him to please hit it with ONE last coat on the sides while I was out (which I had a tiny sand through on earlier in the finishing process so I felt a little beefing up there was in order). Not thinking that I was HALFWAY THROUGH A FRET LEVEL. He picked up the guitar, started to spray... it shot metal flakes all up into the coat!!! And despite the fact only one coat was over them, they somehow made it deeper... I'm guessing since lacquer has burn-through properties. So I went from almost done back to a total refinish! **** happens, Chris
  16. Bah hahaha. Hey Tim! You gotta sign out with a name so we know it's you! Stropping I got nothin' on. You'd have to talk to Todd on that end. And yes I realize I still owe you a template making day. The guy I was going to pair you up with didn't work out. But I AM going to have to do some templates soon for a sort-of commission if you still want in. Chris PS: Holy s**t dude, that build up there has come a LONG way from the poplar body. Color me impressed!
  17. Oh, sharp tools are a KEY aspect to ANY shop! Here's the BEST method I know: Part 3 (wet stones) is the way I use. Warning: I am biased, I filmed the video and the guy in it is a good friend of mine. However, unbiased, I've still never met anyone with sharper tools than he. Chris
  18. You have a LOT more reading and exploring of forums to do. Chris
  19. How hard it is or how dense it is aren't really the only figures you're interested in. You're also interested in it's moment or modulus of elasticity. Essentially, how much will it bow under pressure. Here's some figures from www.wood-database.com Soft Maple (Big Leaf): 10 GPA Hard Maple: 12.62 GPA Honduran Mohog: 9.56 GPA Spanish Cedar: 9.23 GPA Padauk: 11.72 GPA EIRW: 12.28 GPA So, soft maple is still stiffer than mahogany. It appears Spanish cedar is stiffer than I generally thought too. I would probably limit myself to woods over 9 though. Chris
  20. My Marlin acoustic that just won GOTM has a soft maple neck. It works just fine. I put carbon fiber 1/4" rods in all my necks though. But I've seen soft maple necks without 'um too. Chris
  21. You're mixing themes. Getting that to work well is going to be VERY hard. One pointy horn, one rounded horn. Sorry, but this is a 'back to the drawing board' IMO. Chris
  22. One of these days I'm gunna have to send a body to you for Donnie-finishing! Chris
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