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Tim37

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Everything posted by Tim37

  1. Tim37
    Those switches are designed to return to a center neutral position they arnt gonna work in stock form
  2. Tim37
    I would keep it simple on the guitar itself there's too much room for effects on the floor to try and cram them onboard. My suggestion would be a eq or simple preamp/buffer. Although I have always thought a hidden wireless would be cool for a stage rig The setup for my strat is Volume/tone/bass cut with a push pull for the bridge all passive. I have been thinking about swapinf he bridge switch for a phase for the middle pickup.
  3. Tim37
    I would make a new pickgaurd and use maybe the lower switch plate off a jaguar to keep the vib.
  4. Tim37
    The dremel router might work to clean a slot that's already clean but filled with pretty much any thing i would be afraid of the bit walking and making it even mor of a mess.
  5. Tim37
    You will have to build up clear over the paint until you bury the tape line. Then sand and buff smooth.
  6. Tim37
    Is it UV turning them brownbrown, or is it oxidation? If they where oxidizing that would be a decent explanation of why the purple returns
  7. Tim37
    I am gonna second scott its just part of the grain doesn't look bad to me.
  8. Tim37
    Its been years but you need to convert it to a dimentioned drawing like a PDF. Then scale it to the correct scale then plot it at a 1:1 ratio.
  9. Tim37
    We do appreciate the work you put in.
  10. Tim37
    I tried to change more mine a while back and it wouldnt let me. I am assuming its because I'm using my phone and not a computer. OK I used the gavatar option and it worked
  11. Tim37
    We are Gonna need some pics
  12. Tim37
    Start looking at routers get a 1/2 collet and get a good one. If you can find used tools go for it use common sence if its beat up and wore out looking it probably is. Curtis has some good advise take it step by step. Its a learning process the biuld section is full if failed builds because guys wanted to start off building a lp from the ground up. Also start with cheaper woods learn to build a body befor you spend a bunch on exotic woods that end up in the trash. Learn from your failures let them motivate you to be better not give up.
  13. Tim37
    Start looking at routers get a 1/2 collet and get a good one. If you can find used tools go for it use common sence if its beat up and wore out looking it probably is. Curtis has some good advise take it step by step. Its a learning process the biuld section is full if failed builds because guys wanted to start off building a lp from the ground up. Also start with cheaper woods learn to build a body befor you spend a bunch on exotic woods that end up in the trash. Learn from your failures let them motivate you to be better not give up.
  14. Tim37
    If it is cross threaded you may be able to run a tap through it and get it lined back out.
  15. Tim37
    Curtis is right find an accountant You may be better off incorporating and then paying yourself a salary or some other bs like that
  16. Tim37
    Naw man I didnt mean anything Most guys on here are not well versed in electronics so I thought a little simplification might be in order.
  17. Tim37
    Basically he is saying yes it needs to be conductive. A stroke with a file in the string groove should give you what you need
  18. Tim37
    You could do a recess for your bridge.
  19. Tim37
    At one time there was a thread on hear about strings and there are guys that prefer old wore out strings.
  20. Tim37
    The amount of wood in the body had an effect but I wouldn't worry too much get a few builds in before you start worring about such small influences. right now just focus on building something that is playable
  21. Tim37
    There are several different brands of similar pickups on the market. For the most part they are good for guys doing live sets and have a few acoustic songs to play and don't want to carry another piece of gear. But your not gonna replace the real deal in a studio. BTW you will also probably need a eq in the mix too.
  22. Tim37
    So he wants to hold a button down and then have another that when he pushes reengages the signal? Or is he wanting the first switch to push and kill then he can use the second to reengage as he pushes it? Or is he wanting a on button and a off button where the signal stays in the last state commanded? The first two are simple 1 have a normally open switch and a normally closed switch in serial to ground when he pushes the normally open switch it will ground the signal and kill it the by pushing the normally closed switch would ungrounded the signal. In case two your normally open switch would need to be latching or a toggle I would use a push pull pot.
  23. Tim37
    Sorry I didn't mean to insult but when most people come here wanting to upgrade a squier they tend to be on a tighter budget. Also be careful how and how much you spend because if you arnt you can end up with as much money tied up in that squier as it would have cost to pick up used fender and get the sound your chasing.
  24. Tim37
    You pretty much have it
  25. Tim37
    If ya have some or access to automotive filler it will work fine. Really any filler will work after you put the conductive paint in you won't be able to tell. If it was on a exposed area with a nice gloss paint over it I would go another route. If you have something laying around use it if you have to buy filler go with something cheap. The problem with bondo is it won't expand and contract with the wood (I'm not sure any filler will) after a while you will see a very fine hairline around the filled area on a nicely finished area. I have seen similar thing happen with two different woods that react to humidity differently. It won't fall out just will be there. But that conductive paint is so thick I font think you will ever see it besides its behind a pickgaurd.
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