Jump to content

Mr Natural

GOTM Winner
  • Posts

    1,194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

Everything posted by Mr Natural

  1. so- reviving this thread- I decided to clean this shite hole up once and for all. Ever since my daughter moved back in I have had a lot of "stuff" that needed to find room- which meant my basement got filled quick- and all my misc shite got plopped into the garage. Well- I want my "shop" back- so- time to clean so I can build. its "getting there". . I am embarrassed when the garage doors are up- so- time to remedy the situation. i am on my fifth trash bag (3 lawn bags, two white kitchen bags- time to get rid of all the cut offs that arent worth a crud- and all the other CRAP I have accumulated etc-
  2. body routed- but a nice little chunk came out the back side on the butt end. Hoping the round over will take care of this- it should
  3. making thins of wood to cut for the inlay- ass end of the body after hitting the belt sander prior to trimming with router
  4. between the waves in the grain of the fingerboard, the multi-scale frets and the apposing points of the head stock and body- this ax has a very "Salvador Dali" quality to it. I like it.
  5. that is a bad ass little do dad. - whatever its called- I am not sure I have ever seen a tool like that. very cool Did you get that in Japan or stateside?
  6. I told myself that I am going to try to post something- anything- progress wise- no matter how small every day- or at least every other day on this build. I have some serious vacation time I have to start burning by end of year so- I should be able to make some progress every couple days. if I stop posting who knows- I might disappear for a couple years.........() with that said- today's progress- no big deal- just rough cut the body blank with a jigsaw. I will further clean it up on my little 9' band saw (ha ha ha ha) if possible- or else take it to the belt sander and get it a bit closer to the outline before routing the body.
  7. so how big was that buckeye burl before you cut it? Seriously- I dont think I have ever seen a piece of buckeye burl big enough to do a guitar like that. edit- PS- nice score on that Ziricote top. DAYUMMMMMMMMMM
  8. yes- welcome and you are awarded bonus points for a foot shot without even knowing it was a "thing" here. for those dents- you might want to try and steam them out- that with a little bit of sanding might all but eliminate them. perfect learning opportunity! if you dont have a steam iron- you can simply put a damp folded (several layers) paper towel and touch a soldering iron to it- get that steam into the dent. you will be surprised how it works- especially if that wood is a bit soft.
  9. now that is jig- big, sturdy and keeps the fingers away from that nasty router bit. and that router table looks massive!. I like it.
  10. tracing it up to get an idea, Not sure what that weird reddish hue is in the pic- ghost in the machine I guess. gluing up the ears on the neck now-I usually dont do this prior to routing the truss rod channel- but this time around I will be using a trim router with an attachment I was gifted, and since my blank is square- and I will be using a spoke wheel truss rod with access at the body end of the neck- I am good to go. @MassimoPL77 's beautiful inlay job on that Les Paul he did got me to thinking about an inlay for this guitar. hmm.but not with shell -looking thru old odds and sods of pen blank cut offs I got on the cheap years ago-I am thinking about wood inlay- but what should my subject be. .......hmmm-my avatar is calling ..maybe if I can actually pull this off without looking like crap I can call this the "NatchMaster". I think that beard has to be done in shell though- white m.o.p. Not sure the Holly blank I have will stay that white. may need to do a test run. use black epoxy for the outlines/eyes- and place it all in a circle of flame or quilt maple. Shoes in walnut and koa- that shirt....not sure if I will use the yellowheart or may be the nara or maybe something else. Osage orange would be nice but it will change over time.
  11. I always sand my flat straight lines with this sanding bar- this thing has stayed straight and true despite being kept in a garage that experiences some serious temp swings. put pencil lead on the edge- sand- check if flat
  12. just realized I havent said this in a while. Mt FUJI!!!!!!!!
  13. I have to echo Carl's question here- and let me get this straight- you finish sand- I assume to something in (at least) the 200 grit range (220/240)-and then when applying the finish you go back to 80 grit? man that seems like a lot of work if you are introducing that deep a scratch into a finished sanding job. I guess though it fills up the grain eh?
  14. glue up on the body wood. - again- this will get eaten by the router thicknessing jig tomorrow- almost a full 1/4" of wood is coming off. ( in case anyone is wondering- that is my new roof sitting in the driveway thanks to tropical storm Irma -going on Monday) neck getting (top) headstock ear attached- prior to applying 2 more clamps (in case Carl got nervous I was only going to use one clamp :-)) I am trying to get a lot of the glue squeeze out prior to applying the other clamps
  15. Neck blank. This I can square up and prep on my Craftsman 4" table top jointer. I have said this years ago- most table top tools are crap- I know- I own a bunch- but this is truly a decent tool for the money. Unfortunately with mahogany- and any wood really- you never know what removing a couple of millimeters of wood might reveal. A nice worm hole that wasnt present on the surface. and my luck- on the other side too. I am going to continue on- with the possibility that this neck blank gets scraped. the first hole is up around the headstock- the second by the first fret area.
  16. in the mean time while that paper plan dries completely before i sand it- time to start cutting some mahogany. I dont own a planer- so- I end up using a slightly thicker than final body thickness blank, i joint one edge and then glue that edge- any "unevenness" caused by using a rough cut face against the joiner fence will come off when I use my thickness routing jig. This wood is just under 2" thick. The table saw is buried under rumble, so- circular saw it is.
  17. putting the "plans" onto 1/4" mdf board to cut out for making templates. I do this on 1/4" first- as it is easier to sand and dial in, then attach that 1/4 inch template to 1/2" or 3/4" (whichever I happen to have on hand) and then take it to the router table. The 1/4" master then goes into storage, and if anything happens to the thicker templates (ever drop MDF onto concrete?)- I always have the masters to resort to. a quick visit with a jigsaw and band saw and we have rough cut templates. I will take to the sander to get close- finish off the straight edges of the neck with a straight edged template attached and trip to the router table with pattern bit. once all is said I done I pipe in some CA on the edges- let it dry- and kiss it with 400 grit attached to block or dowel for the inside curves.
  18. get the paper plans finalized so I can make templates tomorrow headstock. I increased the nut width to 1.75" wide. I will probably do a nice big fat and chunky C/D carve on the neck- somewhat south of a full flown basebat bat but enough meat on the neck to really put a chunk of wood in your hand.
  19. nice fix. Speaking of hand of doom- is that puppy still around or was that one sold- if still around- how is she doing?
×
×
  • Create New...