MiKro

John, Check out Woodcraft. They have a Steel City unit on sale this month for $229.00. A friend just picked one up and it seems to work quite well. It also has washable filters and a 5 year warranty. Just my .02 cents. Mike

I think a call to Stewmac is in order as it is obvious that the machining was not was correct on the neck block or neck heel. UNLESS you have changed something? I would think that they would have the correct angle for the neck block to heel, to work? Just my crazy odd .03cents MK

I got WOOD but it's for the ladies. So I'll not show it in public.

Contact Doug@soulmateguitars.com He is also a member here. MK

Welcome Back DRAK!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike

I think a good read of Melvin Hiscocks. "Make your own electric guitar" book is in order. MK

This is old school type of template ,spray and shade work. Very Simple. Look at some early 70's airbrush fish scale work , same process . MK

my first suggestion would be to go to the OLF and do a search on this. If memory serves me, someone there has info on doing a metal bodied RESO. Otherwise no clue from me on it. A wooden one I can help Mike

I got plenty of that you need some? Dm hard to bookmatch though, since it's a stain in the wood and not grain. I would say that curly, quilted, birdseye is very very nice. Now if I could find that and it be spalted, ambrosia as well. damn that would be a find. MK

Clorox is not wood bleach. It will work to help remove the some types of dyes but it is weak compared to other types. REad this basic article and maybe that will help Wood bleaching Link

interesting, X/6" , mostly x/4" material I deal with ? and BTW Welcome. As far as the substrate issue and veneered to one side. There is no problem with this as long as your wood is at proper MC% and stable. I agree that cabinet makers have all been taught that you veneer equally. In this application that is not the norm. MK

You are welcome!!

if you are only going to do 2" inch or less edges another thought might be to use a router table. So if you have a router you might consider a table and plate. with a good 1/2"d x 3" straight bit and fence. Just another approach not mentioned. MK

Not sure I'm understanding that thought process??????????????? +1 on this idea. MK

Not sure Rosemary Wood , would like to be a neck or necking, she's a good girl , she might not like that. But Rosewood might, just what type is the question. Now as far as a neck. you might consider contacting Soulmate Guitars , Doug is a member here and makes wonderful necks. MK

You to Rob, We need to get together for lunch soon !! BTW if you talked with Scott at WoodCraft he'll tell ya that the TE that they have is most likely Persimmon. It is of the ebony family and has been highly used in the Asian market for years. Mike

Daniel, First my condolences to you and family. Very Heartfelt as I have been and felt the pain. Also realize that the works of our Supreme Being have reason, something we will not understand until our own time. Believing as you do, ( based on posts you have made) I hope and pray you understand? God Bless you, your Grandma and your family. My prayers are with you at this time as well with all. Sincerely and respectfully, Mike

I've used the shimming method before on large pieces that cannot go through the jointer. If you want to use this method then you are going backwards. First shim the ends and put the bow down. Take small passes until reaching flat. Then flip the board and make a pass. Continue flipping board each pass and take off equal amounts to balance the board. This in no way will guarantee success. but it is the correct way to use a planner to accomplish this. I would look more at cutting the board to shorter lengths as required for the job as dictated by the neck you want, as well as maybe cutting those into 3" widths and using a sled on a table saw to true up the faces or at least one and then run trough a planer. Then do a lam glue up. I agree with WSpoke, look at the board not as a whole. but as the individual parts and you will see that it is less of a problem. Just my .02cents MK

Texas Ebony-- Persimmon!!!!!! At least that's what I have been told from some wood suppliers. mk

+1 on the Titebond and it will adhere to the garalite if you will wipe it down with acetone first and let it cure for 24hrs. not the normal 20 mins and move on.

as far as oily woods, such as Cocobolo, EIR, teak, also some cedars, Ect... The easiest way to help insure a good glueup is to use acetone to the surfaces just before adding the glue. This will remove the surface oils and to some respect (depending on species) just below surface to allow a good bond with PVA(titebond) type glues, CA, and epoxies. Just an FYI MK

+1

Anyone notice that it has looks as if it either has been repaired before or it is a laminated neck in layers? could be the grain plying tricks on my old eyes:) I would redo the joint just before the breakover of the headstock and replace it if it were me. MK

It's funny that you ask that question Wes. The reason for my reply to this, is that many are mislead by the guy on DIY network, I think his name is Brad Johnson or something like that? He always refers to the Sliding Compound Miter saws as RADIAL ARM saws. So, if anyone is listening. There is a BIG difference between to two.

Daniel, I locate my cable jack hole so I can go through the cable jack hole with the long bit and drill to each pickup cavity. MK