MiKro

Is Goldie Hawn going to show up? If so I really want to do her while shes hugging the tree. LOL:))))) MK

Lets' see if you are willing to purchase, then a $10 donation to PG will get you access to the file downloads that have the LP specs. Hope this helps!!!! MK

I've gone this route already; you'll have to replace that filter cylinder pretty often to keep the airflow up. I eventually got fed up and got myself a proper Delta 1200 cfm unit. +1 on the proper dust collector. MK

Hi Godin, Not Sure where you are in Texas, but if you need to use some tools I'm in Dallas and you are welcome to come by and use my thickness sander and whatever else you need. Just Email or PM me and let me know. Mike

Jaycee, While I think that bending the sides may be less work, I would think that lams would work as well. Espesicially if both sides are the same contour. I would make the lams oversize and cut it down the middle then run on a jointer for the width/thickness. This would give you 2 sides equal. I hope I'm making some since as this is how I have seen bent lam rockers made for chairs. So if the rockers or (sides in your case) need to be 2in high and 3/4 thick then the lams are made to the curvature of the form 3/4 in thick and 4 1/2 high. Then run through a bandsaw to make 2 pieces 2 1/4 wide/high, then jointed to 2in. Now they are a perfect match. well just my thoughts!!!!!!!! Hope that helps and if not just think I'm just a rambling old fart!!! LOL:)_))))) Mike

The board was no good. It was installed wrong so that the frets were at an angle to the centerline. therefore no need to save the board. This process took maybe 20mins and the neck is ready and sanded for the new board. Oh Well !! Like I said this is another method. LOL:))) Thanks for the input Mick. Mike

I'm not sure this really qualifies as a tutorial but here is my method of removing a screwed up fretboard from a bolt on neck. As you will see the fretboard was installed incorrectly therefore no need to salvage the fretboard. This Neck was purchased on EBAY and the seller would not take refund or exchange this neck. I will not name names, but please be careful when purchasing. Even though they have numerous Positives. My Nephew bought this neck as well as a body from someone. The body will be the next segment on fixing the unscrupulous sellers parts( broken screws in the holes). Hope this helps someone. See link below Mike K http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/fretboard.html

Tell you what for 500 I'll send you a flamed maple brick that is at least 24 ins long, 3 1/2 to 4 inches thick and 8 or better inches wide and is 5a grade ,weighs aleast 15+ lbs and you will get at least 3 or 4 tops out of it. The price is absurd for those pieces.!!!!!!!!!! They are quite nice but you can get "Billets from the GODS" from Grizzly that are that nice or better for 300. Sry I just don't see the expense for this. I have mahogany that is as nice and not worth that much????????? Just my 2 cents. MK edited to add: I'm not trying to be an a$$. I just hate see someone get screwed. You seem to know what you want and if that is it, buy it. I and the rest will not judge you on your preference, but that pricing seems to be outrageous for that wood. I hope you have experience using highly figured maple as it can be a real "Beach" working with it. I've built cabinets for many years with maple and The highly figured wood will still causes problems for me when I least expect it and that will cost a great piece of wood at times. Sincerely Mike

I would say that Luke is probly a good canidate for this as he is a younger enthusiast and appears limited on funds if you read his posts. Just my 2cents?))) Mike

yes indeed..that's exactly how i heat mine. i have a length of 2" galvanized pipe mounted in a floor flange snip>>>>>> Hi Greg, You do realize that heating Galvanized pipe can be deadly???? I do hope you are using lots of ventilation and cross breeze, as well as being outside? I'm just trying to prevent you or any one else from getting deathly ill or possibly dying from the fumes that expelled from galvanized steel after reaching 500 degrees. Just wanted to post the warning, I'm not chastizing just want you and everyone to be careful and be safe.. Sincerely, Mike K

Hello All. Well for starters I have downloaded the plans, It is much more complex than one would think. I will say that after the first read GF has covered things well and appears to be well illustrated. There are a few areas that are somewhat fuzzy, but with understanding of what you are trying to do, makes since. I will address these to GF after I have had time to reread a few times and make sure I'm not missing something. This is only to help improve the end results. LOL:)) So long for now and I'll get an update as soon as possible. To Guitar Frenzy: Just a note to you. It would be nice to have full size plans as well as PDF as an option, some people prefer this. I know that would add cost, but some would pay additional for it. Just a suggestion. Sincerely, Mike

I ordered one and I'll see what the plans are like and build one and try and give a review in the next few weeks or so time permitting. MK

An hour for most Titebond glues, then dont stress the joint. I like to get my clamps availible for other tasks if needed. MK

I played with Stevie in 1976, Then, I was a harmonica player. He was young an crazy as I was. He was raised in Oak Cliff, then was in Mesquite. before Austin We had some good times. Drank alot of MD2020. I saw Jimmie in 68 what a player! I voted for Jimmie as he was so out of the box. Stevie was a great player and a friend. Best Drummer is my friend Buddy Miles. He moved recently and now I have no one to beat in poker LOL:) He used to live down the street. He had this guitar that was Jimmies. What a sound!!!!! Only thing was it was setup for a lefty, so was Buddy a lefty(he's a player too!)The Buddy Miles Express. LOL:)) Mike

I second this idea, and also have some naptha( lighter fluid) to bring out the grain. I do this all the time. mk

I'm not one to nomally say it wont work, but I think you might want to add some material to the neck for the tenon as others have said. Check out my site with the add on for a bolt on to a set neck this may help with a way to make you neck work. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html I hope the first few pics help? MK

First is the capacitor built in or on the motor? Usually they connect with 2 brown wires. As far as Mains power the White is neutral in the US, the Blk(hi), Blue(med), and Red(lo) is the common and are normally used for multi speeds. Some have additional wires that set the Rotation, GE motors have an additional 4 wires that are Brn, Yel, Org, Purp. These connect Brn to org, and Yel to Purp for CCW and switch the yel and org for CW. Now your motor may have these internally? or jumpers inside the cover plate? Hope this helps in some way. MK

A few pics would help determine how we can direct you with some ideas. Also what type of finish you were planning on? Mike

Sure if you have a local HD or Lowes that carries maple? Usually they only carry Pine, Redoak, Poplar and sometimes Birch. Watch for the correct grain whn making your selection. MK

Luke, May I suggest that you check out these basic tutorials. http://www.iguanalabs.com/maintut.htm They will help you understand some of the questions you are asking. There is even one on LEDs. Hope you find this usefull. Mike

Here's a good rule of thumb in regard to speed "Bit Diameter" "Max.Speed" 1" 24,000 11/4"-2" 18,000 21/4"-21/2" 16,000 3"- 31/2" 12,000 This is true whether it is a 1/4" or 1/2# shank. I have found though that slower speeds tend to give better results with some woods that have high sugar contents such as Maple. You will have less burning of the wood if you slow the bit down some and keep a constant feed rate. Always try on some scrap first to find what works for you. Hope this helps you some. Mike

You might try these from woodcraft, they are a bit pricey but will remove wood fast. I've used them for other tasks like shaping the seat of a wooden chair. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=926 MK

See I told ya others would chime in. I stand corrected and apologize for any miss information? LOL:)) Thanks guys for setting him straight. MK

Not that it can't be done but 1/2" is quite thin for a carved top, 5/8 or better is the norm (unless very experienced) A thinline flat top would work with 1 1/2 " total thickness whereas, 1 3/4" would be the norm as far as minimum that most use. Others will probly chime in with more info on this.

sounds like you been talking to Sue at Gilmer mk