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MiKro

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Everything posted by MiKro

  1. MiKro
    Blurry pic sorry. side panels cut out. MK
  2. MiKro
    So I built a small velleman amp for the arcade today. It will power the speakers. Was cheaper to buy the kit than just order the parts and start from scratch. So It is now all soldered up and ready to go. 2x5 watt, 12VDC. LOL MK
  3. MiKro
    Sub-D is like T splines but on steroids. It is actually in R6 latest version, sort of watered down and hidden. you can access it by using the subd command in the command line in R6 mk
  4. MiKro
    Oh you mean one of these? I am still working on the model so I can CNC it. Carving it is easy. LOL!!! Just had to mess with ya!! MK
  5. MiKro
    Yes I also use Grasshopper as well as other plugins, I have upgraded to Rhino 7 so I also now will be using sub-d.
  6. MiKro
    This is looking great Matt. I have started designing one in Rhino awhile back for my son-in-law. need to get back to it. The start of the top in rhino. MK
  7. MiKro
    Have not gotten that far yet. Most likely a clear plexi panel over the monitor with black paint on back side to cover all except the screen. The control panel will be most likely black plexi.and the rest I may do something like a weathered look with laser engraved stuff. I am not going to spend the $$$ for the Art /graphic wraps. MK
  8. MiKro
    HI all, Something a little different in the shop. I am making a Retro Bartop Arcade from scratch. Using an older 5:4 ratio LCD 19" monitor, with Sanwa controls, an ATX PC type power supply and a 60 in 1 Jamma Board. First test in demo mode with no controls look promising. Next is to design and build the cabinet.. Still in rough design mode. MK
  9. MiKro
    @mistermikev, This is looking good Mike. You are doing very well so far with the cnc and learning. Your learning curve is getting smaller each day. I commend you. Many take a long a time to master where you are. While I am not saying you are at a master level yet, you are gaining ground on these areas. Keep up the learning and questions Mike.
  10. MiKro
    I would have carved a horned owls head in there. MK
  11. MiKro
    Mike speed up the IPM to about 10-12 and change the DOC to about 0.010 max maybe even 0.005" You can actually do it in one pass at full depth if you have the know how. but that requires hand writing the Gcode for every part of it. Even I still have problems with that one. It requires a slow ramping in acceleration and speed with the correct ramp i. Then once cutting it will require a ramped acceleration to the feed speed all with the correct spindle rpm. A very tedious task. I know only a few that have made it work and they won't give away there code secrets. MK
  12. MiKro
    What end mills are you using for the fret slots? What Feed, speed and DOC? Not sure why you started on a good fret board?. Always test new processes on scrap first. Mike
  13. MiKro
    @ADFinlayson May I suggest you check with some of the Doctor/Surgeons in your area. Many like to play as it keeps there hands and fingers nimble. Dentist are another group that applies there hands as well. Just thinking outloud.
  14. MiKro
    Very old post that has been resurrected for some reason?
  15. MiKro
    Looks good, I do have one question though. It appears that you are using pipe for the bender. I hope that is NOT GALVANIZED pipe? If it is please be aware that heating galvanized pipe can be very deadly. The fumes from the galvanization burning off is very poisonous and deadly. MK
  16. MiKro
    Best I can do for you.
  17. MiKro
    Another thing is this when cutting the edge of the center line with your CNC do each edge on the opposite side of your cutter. This will take in account any possible tramming issues in that axis. Similar to cutting a piece in two if that makes since? MK cut.pdf
  18. MiKro
    look at shars.com. cutting tools square end mills go to bottom of the left side for lengths https://www.shars.com/products/cutting/end-mills?cutting_diameter=1%2F4&end_mill_category=Square+End&overall_length=4 even though the flute lengths are only 1". so It is imperative that you are trammed correctly. I use the 3 " in 1/8" Ball nose for drilling through holes on hardtail bodies mk
  19. MiKro
    I have 4" end mils in 1/8" and 1/4" and a 6" in 1/2" diameter it all depends on the flex of the machine and the tramming.. MK
  20. MiKro
    I have been at this for a long time Grasshopper. If the join looks wonky when done, use the 30* again on the line very faintly and fill with pearl powder and clear epoxy or CA. mk
  21. MiKro
    Just a little knowledge that can make a project go from very nice to wow. another thing you can do is dye the insert first, then it is easy to dye the inside edge after it is cut out as binding without the problems of bleed. mk
  22. MiKro
    You can always do the f-hole binding this way. Using a 30* v-bit, carve the f-holes to size. Now using the same v-bit make male inserts that glue in (inverse of original v-carve). Once done use a standard end mill to cut the edge binding by the offset needed. Here is a PDF file that shows the dimensions of v-bit cutters from a side view. MK V-Bit Chart.pdf
  23. MiKro
    That is F'd up.
  24. MiKro
    Go to school, get a Masters degree minimum in a field that is useful. "Not Art". Make guitars as a hobby, enjoy the $$$ and life. We had a guy here on PG, that had his Phd in Astro Physics. He worked for the Carnegie Melon Institute of Technology and the Smithsonian. He was one of the first persons to discover that water was in the moon rocks we brought back in the 60s. He built some beautiful guitars. Or follow the path of guitars, Like PGs own Rhoads56 Now known as Ormsby Guitars. mk
  25. MiKro
    I have used birdseye before, No problem. Now think about Fender. They used flat sawn boards for necks with a skunk stripe. Think about what I just said. mk
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