mistermikev

right on. well only 76mb but it adds up. I'm the guy who always complains about email attachments and 760tb on my network so... I get it. the odd thing is it wouldn't let me embed from youtube at first. Just pasting the url into the reply and hitting enter at the end of it... worked just now, but yesterday did not. Perhaps because it was new to youtube and internet crawlers cacheing it or something, no idea. either way - crisis averted! lol. thanks for the reply.

right on. v nice job.

thank you sir - always there with a kind word and that is not lost on me at all.

looks good. that logo... it's very fine afa detail. did you do it with "laser beams" or is that waterslide or perhaps silk screen? the fine detail of it is very nice.

all buffed... note to self... need to change default video output settings since y'all don't allow mp4... also why don't y'all allow mp4??

right on. I thought I had seen you use a router plane setup b4. one way or another - got her done.

well... my router jig is adjustable in height so... idk if that's what you mean. also, I find cannons or hammers get the most use in my tool arsenal! Everything looks like a nail... er, um... cannon fodder.

would have been a good use for a router plane jig. I got an extra one but I'm pretty sure I'd have to mortgage my house to ship it to you!! at the end of the day... doesn't matter how you get to the church... just that you are there. I'm sure I'm repeating myself... by that top is really lovely in natural.

the glow in the dark accent ferrule surrounds is really a nice detail. "It's the little things". cudos.

right on. that looks great. almost looks metallic. some nice curves there too.

for some reason one of your pictures or videos isn't showing... 7th down. looks good. the green and natural contrast is really classic.

that's a really nice looking guitar. afa neck pocket... for me... I like to lay things out. I know that Ash's advice above has worked great for him and many and is rock solid... but just more comfortable mocking things up in an editor and being able to see it virtually and "play" with the angle. really was surprised the first time I did it how arbitrary the angle really is. If you factor in the fact that you could (in theory) plane off some of your top at an angle too... or just plane the pocket at an angle... there is a surprising amount of play. in the interest of providing options... it's one you could consider. when I've done it... I lay things out actual size in graphic editor. I mock up a sideview of all components... my body, plug in a mock neck, add frets based on my actual fret height, mock up my exact bridge minimum height at my actual scale length, put a line in to act as the string sitting 1/64th above the fret. I take the neck as one whole component and rotate it and I can see where minimum is and decide if I want to go more or minimal. as biz pointed out... this lets you see the sideview and anticipate where the fretboard edge is going to be in relationship to the end of the guitar. anywho, just a thought.

i too am a big fan of mohawk. Before I had a compressor I was all about their lacquer color tone series... still have a can of that that I have to use. About the best quality from a rattle can I've ever experienced. Now, using their guitar nitro lacquer and it's also very nice. Can't recommend them enough.

hehe, nothing quite like fully admitting you forgot the lyrics. In high school... i did a benefit with this band... and we played war pigs and I sang... couldn't remember the lyrics to last verse and was not able to admit it (now in darkness world stops turning...). so we just did this extended version where I stalled by saying I wanted to see everyone banging their heads. I wish I had had the balls to just admit it... and then have someone remind me. Comes off pretty balsy, lol.

it's official... never even happened. bravo.

i'm not really a modern guy... but that's a nice build. good job. typically p90s do get a 500k and singles a 250, but looks like you got it on the run.

there is some spray... well just watch this video (i believe it's butle cellusolve(spelling!!))

I don't know if this would have saved you completely... but a while back i saw a video comparing a number of commercial/diy end grain sealers... and the jist of it was that elmers white glue (not wood glue... the kind you use with glitter!) was better than many and almost as good as some of the expensive options. Been using it to seal my end grain since. afa top twist... i haven't had to fix twist but I have def fixed cup. I've done the sprits of water followed by weight and repeat... but never submerged them. Typically this has fixed them a little, but never completely flattened them... and I just ended up clamping them flat to cut a join and sanding out any leftover irregularities. The best thing I've found is just to leave them sit for a long time with a bunch of weight on them and dry. that takes a long time and may not completely fix the issue, but it's a lot less effort!!.

I can confirm... yonico is def chinese. that said... they are really great bits... been using them for a while. You wouldn't expect them to last like whiteside and they don't... but when they are new they sure cut like whiteside. I would wager they last longer than the bosch or other "mid grade" bits. cool thread and a lot of detail there... I do mine by cnc now but had considered this route a while back... I'm guessing this will be a very useful thread for many. cudos.

in one of my builds here... sweetspotblue... I did an all tru oil finish. did a waterslide for the headstock... used tru oil on ebony. used acrylic to coat the decal so ink wouldn't run... built up tru oil on headstock and got it glass smooth, put on waterslide, then burried it in tru oil. no issues whatsoever. i don't know about other oils as tru oil is really more of a varnish than an oil... but it will def work with tru oil.

that is most def due to humidity. common issue. worst is... freq you can get blush from humidity that shows up a year later. Doen'st just happen to nitro but it is pretty infamous for it. Things you can do to mitigate: warm your lacquer and do extremely light coats that you let dry for longer than normal. if using a compressor def want a filter on it/water trap. other than that... it's really best to wait to lay down paint till you have lower humidity.

i actually looked it up after that post... my take-a-way - what an odd name!!

i have no idea what a frisket is... but I like the word. hehe. have never done this myself... but have often thought about it. if I had to do it... I would probably do a scan of my inlay and get it into my computer, then print out those lines on my vinyl inkjet paper, use a sharp fiskars detail scissors to cut the lines carefully... and then tape it on carefully. all easy to do. another idea might be to use flex-all or other rubberized paint... use a detail brush to paint it on... spray over it... rubber should just pull right off the inlay. I think the frisket (whatever the hell that is lol) could work just as good... the trick I think is going to be nice clean lines. I have recently used vinyl as mentioned above to do nat binding and it worked very well. was super easy and I got nice crisp lines. Painting something on... gonna require a real steady hand to get those kind of lines... but doable. hope something there helps.

coming together nicely. when I saw the bown dust above... I thought "jeez I better save some of that" - hehe. old habits and all hehe, then I noticed the cup lol. Might want to store that away from the coffee!

that fretboard looks awesome. the gobs of green goo look like quatrophonic lung butter tho. hoik.... patewey.