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Setch

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Everything posted by Setch

  1. Setch
    Kaj, If you're making a metal bodied reso, take a look in the MIMF library. This thread: http://www.mimf.com/library/paulick_build_tricone.htm Is a very comprehensive account of makng a metal bodied reso, complete with over 100 images. You need to be a MIMF member, and be logged in to see the thread.
  2. Setch
    check the depth of the fretslots, and deepen them if required. The gap you describe will be a problem down the road.
  3. Setch
    After you've completed all your finish sanding, but before any finishing. If you bind before finish sanding, you may find a tool mark or blemish which will need to be sanded out, resulting in a thin section of binding. If you bind after doing any finish application, you risk a sand though (or scrape thru) when gettng the binding scraped flush.
  4. Setch
    OK Drak and Dean, first warning. Dean - That posts was *nothing* but a personal attack, with a threat thrown in for good measure. I see another like it, and you're on a suspension. Drak - I understand your position on this matters, but there are ways and means which don't include insulting the posters. Quit with the grandstanding or I'll be sending you on vacation too. This thread has been toeing the line for a while, but that was a firm step over that line. Personal dissagreements between forum members are NOT to be played out in public. Keep it productive, and keep it civil or you'll be warned, then suspended.
  5. Setch
    Just to be contrary, I always thought 1 piece neck was used to distinguish between a laminated and non-laminated neck shaft. I've been known to describe my necks as '1 piece neck with scarf jointed headstock'. I'm not sure where I picked this up from, but it made sense to me that the 'pieces' referred to the number of laminations comprising the neck shaft, with heel and head being detailed separately. I'm obviously outvoted on this one, and I'll freely acknowledge that your system makes more sense....
  6. Setch
    To the best of my kowledge, Gibson has never used black grain filler under their red finishes, they use a dark red-brown filler. To match an Epi colour coat I'd be looking to spray tinted clear, and build up colour slowly. You want the grain totally filled and smooth before you start this. Also, be aware in advance that it won't match perfectly - colour matching of finishes is one of the toughest parts of finish repair, which is a tough skill overall. I'd have left it battle scarred and functional, but it's a bit late for that now.
  7. Setch
    I use a carpenters level with sandpaper stuck to it. Failing that, a piece of timber run over a jointer is perfectly functional for levelling a fretboard.
  8. Setch
    Nobody makes a TOM that low, you need to recess, or use a different style of bridge. You also need to work out *why* your neck angle is so far off - 5mm is a massive disrepancy. and you don't want it to happen again!
  9. Setch
    Thank you Drak! I have deleted the unnecessary quote.
  10. Setch
    I use those for sharpening plane irons and chisels, though to get them flat I stripped them off the plastic backer, and superglued them to a dressed and polished marble tile. They're pretty good once they're actually flat.
  11. Setch
    That neck joint makes me a little nervous - whilst you have quite a lot of area glued in the pickup route, the way you have stacked and shaped your heel leaves maybe 2" of glue joint holding the neck against string tension. I fear you may well suffer from instability like the first generation of LPDC specials did, though I hope to be proved wrong!
  12. Setch
    Seconded! I see this quite a lot - trussrod cavities which will barely allow access with a wrench. I make mine so that I can fully remove the adjustment nut (god forbid that nut ever stripout, I want to be able to replace it without carving up the head). I cut them using a round nose bit in my milling machine, and before I had that I used either my router table with the same cutter, or a tiny drum sander in a dremel.
  13. Setch
    Ditto. Prior to final coats I level everything with 800. Spray final coats being extra careful to flow out evenly and avoid runs/sags/orangepeel. Then, start levelling with 2000. If that is taking too long I'll drop back to 1500. Ideally I should only be removing overspray and very slight surface texture, otherwise it's back to 800, and anther shot at the final coats.
  14. Setch
    Another voice agreeing with Mattia's comments - he's bang on the money about learning the most about woodworking and CNC.
  15. Setch
    Googling around a bit will bring up a few different site showing how to build a cam clamp. They can be made pretty easily and inexpensively, especially if you have a table saw.
  16. Setch
    Yep, pretty much, though it can be a bear to get the shape of the veneer symetrical where it transitions into the neack shaft. Look at David Myka's guitars for an example of how it looks when it's done right. You can also inlay the tip of the veneer piece into the neck, so it comes to a sharp point - this is used on some Gibson guitars, for example the Super 400.
  17. Setch
    You're always a naughty boy
  18. Setch
    Saddle slotting is less critical than nut slotting - you really just need to create a small notch to position the string. This can be done with a small triangular file. Saddles have less active string behind them, and don't (usually) have tuners behind them, so they don't have the same binding problems as a nut, and they don't set the string height the way a nutslot does. All you have to be careful of is to make a smooth so that the string isn't likely to get cut or damaged.
  19. Setch
    Router thicknesser, made for the job. I now use a bobbin sander and fence, but I've used the router to thickness all my headstocks before, and it's worked perfectly.
  20. Setch
    I had a similar experience with Parcelforce is the UK. The truck with my wood order on it was stolen from the depot. I only found out because I asked Craft Supplies where my order was, and they chased PF, who said 'Our records show we delivered that package'. Apparently their system doesn't differentiate between good which are delivered, and goods which are stolen... so long as parcel force don't have it anymore....
  21. Setch
    Try searching for black japaned screws rather than black oxide, it may help. Other than that I can't help much!
  22. Setch
    Guys, PLEASE don't quote previous posts except for emphasis or specific context. It makes the thread awkward to navigate, and increases the length exponentially. I'm giving particular stinkeye to Woodenspoke and Fry - you're both very naughty boys!
  23. Setch
    No scrap which fits the bill to be found - the offer still stands if you want to supply brass stock, or I might try to order some myself for experimenting with...
  24. Setch
    Wez, I'll have a dig through my brass scraps - if I can find a suitable bit I might be able to machine you a bassplate, providing you don't mind doing the fine surface finishing and polishing (yawn!)
  25. Setch
    Agreed. In my experience shellac dries plenty fast enough without any need for baking or any other accelerant process.
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