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Setch

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Everything posted by Setch

  1. Setch
    There are specific lacquers for protecting polished brass door furniture and handles, which I believe are formulated slightly differently than regular nitro. I have some from the shop 'Knobs and Knockers', purchased about 20 years ago - god only knows where you'd find some now - architechtural hardware store maybe, or a good hardware store?
  2. Setch
    I like Howard Klepper's line on this (I'm paraphrasing) 'The chambers in my guitars are all tuned to specific frequencies. Of ocurse, I have no idea what they are'.
  3. Setch
    Please don't cross post in multiple sections of the forum, it clutters up the forum, and spreads arounds information which should all be in one place. Your duplicate topic has been merged with this one.
  4. Setch
    The neck angle on an LP is carved into the top, and without the pickup plane it would end half way between the two pickups. This would look ugly, reduce string clearance where you need to be picking, and leave the two pickups at significantly different angles. So, the easiest solution is to plane in the 'pickup plane', which is simply a flat area which starts by the end of the fretboard, and extends to just in front of the bridge. You don't need to calculate it, just mark the bridge location and the end of the fretboard, and join the two lines with a flat area. I now do this with a sharp jack plane, it's a very quick process.
  5. Setch
    Yep, I'm digging it.
  6. Setch
    What feel exactly? The only difference I can think of is that unbound frets may stick out in low humidity, and I can't think of anyone who'd consider that desirable Otherwise, I treat my fretboard edges identically, and blindfolded I couldn't tell you which is which.
  7. Setch
    Please, please don't half arse the binding. It's one of the most wince inspiring things to ever appear on a guitar. Either carry the fret ends through a plain borad, or bind it and undercut the ends, but for the love of god don't bind-then-slot. Ugh.
  8. Setch
    I'd start by clarifying what you're selling - your ad is extremely unclear. Is it the whole pictured item? You say 'it's only the body', but also say it includes the neck and fretboard, *and* describe it as a neck-through?!
  9. Setch
    Yup. it ain't a flaw, it's a feature.
  10. Setch
    Perry, when you mention more work, do you mean youn actually loosen the fit a hair before glueup? I've had trouble with getting some necks into the mortice when they are that tight, because the glue expands the tenon.
  11. Setch
    I suspect the potential 'client' was largely a timewaster. I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but if you start making guitars, and showing them around a lot, get used to people saying they really want one, then dissappearing as soon as the price is mentioned. There are a lot of people who are under the mistaken impression that handmade instruments can be priced to compete with far-eastern imports, and it sounds like your client was one of these folks.
  12. Setch
    I round the corners, but I don't loose sleep if they don't match perfectly. They do nothing for the strength of the joint, and every Les Paul out there with a long tenon has gaps at the corners of the mortise. Sure, it's nice if they fit close, but it isn't worth fussing over. I have no idea why, but I think squared corners look wrong.
  13. Setch
    No, 2 dishes - 1 for the back at a tighter radius, 1 for the top at a looser radius, both concave. The dishes are purely for sanding the rim set to match the radius of the back and top, which are bent into their radius and held there by curved braces, not sanded.
  14. Setch
    Juts to muddy the waters, I usually drill afterwards. Either way works, and I like not having finish and polishing gunk ending up in the holes which will need clenaing out later... usually with a drill
  15. Setch
    Gotta say, I can't argue with that.
  16. Setch
    And wood can't be unbent....?
  17. Setch
    On a more serious note, any reason not to recycle the figured wood into headplates or binding stock?
  18. Setch
    Flipping the middle piece is of questionable value. It *might* ba;ance the neck a bit if it is inclined to warp. What it will unquestionably do is make planing and shaping the neck more difficult, since you will always be working against the grain in one section of the neck.
  19. Setch
    If the cracks had closed completely when squeezed, I'd have suggested a generous application of wood glue (Titebond preferably) and clamping up overnight. However, if the crack won't close, you have a more complex job ahead. Do as Jaycee suggests, remove the tuners, then see if you can close the crack, then get back to us.
  20. Setch
    Does is close up completely if you apply pressure to the crack?
  21. Setch
    I'd just scrape it with a razor blade. Scraping leaves a finer finish than sanding or filing, so I wouldn't worry about following it up with anything else.
  22. Setch
    That's the spirit! Git 'er done...
  23. Setch
    There is a good thread from David Myka abut this - it shows his technique which is to mask of the areas to be dyed, then apply clear lacquer to the binding area, so that no dye can penetrate later.
  24. Setch
    To clarifty Brian's 5 year old post; Bore oil, as in, oil to condition the bore of woodwind instruments. Not boar oil, as in, oil made from, or to be applied to, boars.
  25. Setch
    I'd be very surprised if a curling iron can reach anything like those temperatures. Seems to me they'd not be useful for curling hair, more for setting it on fire...
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