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They Call Me Mr. Purpleheart!


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As always I'm late, but I was goingt opoint out about the shape too, I looked at it, and was thinking "the Drak shape without the little iceman tail" . I like it better like that, never was a fan of the iceman.

Drak, I see that this time there is no bracing from the sides on the waist to the middle of the humbuchers, any pro-cons that you have noticed? Or just trying to make it as lighter as possible.

The colors you chossed are great together, it will be a sweet guitar once finished. That top looks nice.

More pics please!

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the olf finishing rule...what you do to one side, you do to the other...the Maple top plates were also given a coat of regular lacquer on the underside, then sanded a bit to roughen up the surface for gluing.

Hmmmm...interesting. I was aware of the good'ld finishing rule.....but I never would have thought of finishing the bottom of the maple top with lacquer??

I'm not nearly there where I have to glue the top on with my RGT-7 project.....but isn't the lacquer not affecting the bond between the top and the bottom.

In your case PH/Maple, my case Limba/Maple. Cause in essense you're not getting a wood/woodglue/wood joint.....but more a wood/lacqer/glue?/wood joint.

So going for epoxy for this joint would make more sense then good wood glue???

Does this make sense?

Also....if you glue one side.....of the maple top....and oil/paint - the other side....won't the glue side and the finished side not balance each other out.

And that scoll saw pic is the business. Must be pointer for everybody that you don't need fancy equipment to build great guitar.

Edited by RGGR
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If you finish one side and don't finish the other, and if moisture can get to both parts equally, the finished side will accept very little (although a tiny bit unless it's a catalyzed finish...lacquer and oil finishes do breathe and accept moisture) and the unfinished side will continue to accept moisture, so the wood will try to warp if it can. In my instance, it probably wouldn't, but I do it anyway.

The lac applied to the bottom of the plates was 2 -very very- thin coats, more like a wash coat actually, then sanded back roughly, so it's really just stopping up the pores of the wood, there's not really a 'lacquer surface' there if you follow... :D

Drak, I see that this time there is no bracing from the sides on the waist to the middle of the humbuchers, any pro-cons that you have noticed? Or just trying to make it as lighter as possible.

The colors you chossed are great together, it will be a sweet guitar once finished. That top looks nice.

Y'know, it's different on every guitar, this one didn't need any bracing like that...if the top was very thin it might, and if I had REALLY hollowed out the body it might, but neither situation applies here, so it wasn't necessary. Thanks!

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I could easily understand why someone would ~want~ to make a 1-piece guitar body out of this stuff, it being purple and everything...but it's just -WAY- too heavy for me like that, it would be a boat anchor for me, and I wouldn't play it. :D

But if it floats your boat, have at it then! :D

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Binding????? Not faux binding there??? Com'on Drak.

Is that the actual binding material you are using, ot just making sure that the size is correct? That will look great with some flamed Koa binding, I think it will go great with the grape magenta colors that you choosed. I'm so mad I'm leaving suday... Makes me want to get the tools out, buy some wood and cut away.

AAAHHHH, I forget, carved top, about time, (and don't count the "diablo blanco" since you didn't finished that one). I know you don't "like" to carve, or at least is not on your prefered things to do, but I think that that guitar will look nniicceee carved.

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I don't know yet. I'm think that atleast in the shop will be a PC I can access, but I don't know how strict the use is Overseas, I know I had no problem in Germany, but they say that Korea is a whole different monster. And yeap, a whole freaking year... I hope that there will be a woodshop around, and if not, I sent my Dremel, and as soon as I get some loose change, I will be buying a lot of inlay material, to keep me occupied for a while...

And, I plan on getting a fretting Kit from Stew (or atleast the mosat common tools) and buy some preslotted fetboards and practice over there, I got my Epi there that need a fret job, I can't wait to start that thing.

Sorry to sway ot of topic a bit.

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Hey Drak nice stuff, thats similar to what I am working on, purple heart chambered body with binding just on top and a maple cap, flat top though, fixed bridge string through. Your post is great is gives me lots of info and confidence with working on the purpleheart. I've been very worried that I wouldn't be able to shape it well, but I see that it should work out alright.

Do you have some tips on working with it, on routers, saws? I've had the stuff for like two months and I have yet to touch it, partly because I'm gathering tools and I wanted to get most of my neck laminate done for reference of cavity routs and bridge placement, so I don't mess up the chambering. I have a post in progress section named solid body progress pics, not much done though, mostly just doing research and building templates for routing.

Are you using only carbide router bits, how many flutes? Well I can't wait to see more pics they are great. Thanks for your help. That guitar is going to look amazing! Jason

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WOW Looking At that I dont mind That The RR-V Is On hold!!

Im loveing That Design Drak! :D

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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