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2 Gothic Guitars


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I am starting a new built based on Epiphone's Gothic Series.

I am painting a Squier Strat and Jackson Flying V.

These wil be the first gothic version of a strat and jackson

flying v ever made.

Jackson flying V:

101441521_1.jpg

I will be painting both guitars fully matte black (excluding fretboard).

The hardware, bridge, jack, humbuckers, tuning keys, whammy bar,

strap buttons, pickguard, plates and pick up switch will be painted matte

black and the tuning knobs will be replaced with gibson ones.

The letters XII will mark the 12th fret, but im not sure how to put it

on or where to get it. On the headstock of the both will have the epiphone

gothic logo.

Both guitar will hopefully eventuall recieve new humbuckers and strings.

The Flying V will be shipped to me sometime before the 28th. I dont

want to start on the stratocaster quite yet because ill have nothing to use.

I am a newbie when it comes to painting anything and from my understanding

what you have to do is:

- use coats paint thinner to remove the paint

- cover neck attachment part

- soak in acetone

- primer it

- paint 11 coats

- polish

correct me if im wrong.

Edited by The Fatalities
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Not gonna comment on the oddness of copying, straight-up, an Epi's (or anything else's) designs and logos, other threads for that...

I am a newbie when it comes to painting anything and from my understanding

what you have to do is:

- use coats paint thinner to remove the paint

- cover neck attachment part

- soak in acetone

- primer it

- paint 11 coats

- polish

correct me if im wrong.

Uh, don't soak anything in acetone. Get a paint stripper (go to the paint store, they'll have it), apply as per direcetions (I find applying it, leaving it in a black garbage bag to 'soak' helps a little), scrape off what paint you can, then sand clean and level. Since you're doing a matte finish (solid colour), it's less critical that you get all the paint off, but if there's a thick layer on there already, it's probably the wisest thing to do.

A word of warning here: if the finish is poly (very likely), it may be next to impossible to get off with a stripper, and it'll be time for good hard sanding (I really hope you've got a ROS or something), or a heat gun (used carefully) and a paint scraper.

Clean out the neck pocket carefully, if you do, because while minimal finish there is good, you also want to make sure the fit between body and neck is nice and tight.

After you've got the body prepped (Sanded flat and level to around 320 grit or so, no scratches elsewhere), primer, colour coats, and clears as per normal.

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thanks for the feedback. Im not sure what paint

Squier strat copies have but it has been chipped

and i can already see the wood parts, so the

paint should come off easy.

Im going to be doing 1 coat of primer then 4 coats

of matte black, then enough coats of clear that it

still looks matte.

I still need to read up on some pickguard, neck

hardware, tuners, plates and pickup painting. Im

on a tight budget, so im not buying them already

painted.

I should start work soon but will not be able to assemble

the strat due to lack of soldering tools. I really have to wait

to paint because i dont have a paint gun so i have to

rely on my school which starts next month.

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Current Projects: First ever Epiphone Gothic Flying V (Jackson body),

First ever Epiphone Gothic Stratocaster (Squier body)

:D

Am I drunk?, or...no, I'm not drunk...

Hate to say it, but I doubt you're the first person to spray up a Strat and a V with flat black paint. As a matter of fact, I think Carvin and ESP both offer that as an option.

Also, Epiphone? I've seen a bunch of people trying to copy Fender, Gibson, Ibanez, and Jackson logos on this forum before, but Epiphone? That's like building up a sweet chopper and slapping a Hyundai logo on it. Is this for real?

Edited by crafty
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These wil be the first gothic version of a strat and jackson

flying v ever made.

ummmm

Are you joking or what? B)

BTW what with the > :D < in the title? :D :D

The hardware, bridge, jack, humbuckers, tuning keys, whammy bar,

strap buttons, pickguard, plates and pick up switch will be painted matte

black

It's a bad idea to paint (using regular paint) metal. It would just flake off and you would be left with an ugly mess.

I've never seen matte black hardware for sale but powercoating is always an option when doing metal parts.

Although I'm not sure it would work because of the tight tolerances. Powdercoating puts on a pretty thick finish.

I'm not sure if anyone makes metal paint. Might be something worth looking into.

Edited by Godin SD
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Hey i happen to really like the Epiphone Gothic series.

There the sweetest guitars ive ever played, besides some

Ibanez ones. I wanted to start an Epiphone Gothic collection.

BTW - Im 16 and been playing guitar for like 3 years and

pretty new to the whole modifying scene.

- I would like to buy one of the knock off necks but i am

on a limited budget and live in Australia, every thing works out

really expensive. Ebay also usually doesnt ship to Aus.

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if epiphones are your thing who are we to judge.

i woundnt paint the metal parts if you want a black matt finish, get them chemically dipped.

the gothic series has chemical black hardare which i believe is dipped in acid to give it that finish.

you might have a hard time trying to find a place that will do this for you. rake round the internet shops and ebay, theres plenty of black hardware out there.

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Tuners will always tell you what size hole they fit when buying them.

Bridges will always tell you the spacing, and (if applicable) the radius too.

As long as you have your neck in hand before you start routing, you'll be fine for the pocket.

Single coils and humbuckers have pretty standard sizes, so no worries there.

Every piece of hardware usually takes its own size of screw, but they also usually come with.

Just make sure you get your string spacing, neck angle, and scale length down before you try to build anything.

Also, most powdercoated black hardware isn't gloss -or- matte, but a nice middling semigloss. It'd look fine with a matte black finish.

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i didnt really understand all those technical guitarry words

but i think i know what your trying to say.

EDIT: just wonder if this will fit my

Squier Strat copy.

Edited by The Fatalities
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i didnt really understand all those technical guitarry words

but i think i know what your trying to say.

EDIT: just wonder if this will fit my

Squier Strat copy.

In my experience, if GuitarFetish says it'll fit, it'll fit. If it might need some adjustment or modification, he'll say so. In my experience.

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upon delivery of the jackson rr copy today (hornsay r43) i have noticed a few flaws that may affect it.

-finish is not very smooth

-some parts are not properly painted

-whammy bar insert is loose

-the pickups are 'fused' together

-the neck is really high off the body

-plastic riser on neck bolts

-unusually wide neck (about 1cm more)

-unusual 12th fret marker size

-noticable material color different when the neck meets the headstock

-wierdly positioned strap button (on neck)

-string hieght is too high (how do i fix that!!)

-body has a round curve instead of sharp

overall it still can be used as a project.

Edited by The Fatalities
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upon delivery of the jackson rr copy today (hornsay r43) i have noticed a few flaws that may affect it.

-finish is not very smooth

-some parts are not properly painted

-whammy bar insert is loose

-the pickups are 'fused' together

-the neck is really high off the body

-plastic riser on neck bolts

-unusually wide neck (about 1cm more)

-unusual 12th fret marker size

-noticable material color different when the neck meets the headstock

-wierdly positioned strap button (on neck)

-string hieght is too high (how do i fix that!!)

-body has a round curve instead of sharp

overall it still can be used as a project.

What do you mean by "fused" together?

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the strap button is probaly on the neck block or heel, which is a common spot for explorers and some vee's.

some necks have a different style of inlay at the 12th fret, you can lower your string height at the bridge, if not, then you will have to recess the bridge into the body (routing the body so the bridge sits lower into it)

What do you mean by the body having a round curve instead of sharp? do you mean the radius, or the actual body shape?

Curtis

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