ibnaz5150 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 (edited) Been a long haul.......since June actualy. This is my 1st body . got bored to death with warmoth bodies... besides it denting my pocket pretty good. I got this wood for 90.00. I'm sure a solid rosewood body runs a good penny...think in the 400.00 range....not too mention hard to find one to build a ibanez body. For those reasons it led me to this. I attached several pix to share my methods and progress. I'm about to dive into the contours(tummy cut & arm rest). I obtained two decent files recently. I plan on using those and my bench belt sander inbetween. Any tips or other methods appreciated cheers http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...0/jigsawcut.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn.../robosander.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...forstnerbit.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn.../neckpocket.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...0/tremroute.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...rearcavity1.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...templatebit.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...avityplates.jpg Edited January 10, 2007 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manquesa Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Very Nice and Clean work! Great job so far, keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Have you had many problems working around the dust? I'm a bit circumspect about rosewood at the moment. I presume you have adequate extraction unless you sweep and clean up before photos ;-) That and you've just reminded me that I need a router bit to cut the recesses for plates better.... BTW - only one 640 x 480 pic per post, you'll need to link the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Very clean work, nice hunk o' wood too. Did you route the neck pocket before cutting the shape?....hard to make out that pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FA2A Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 I personally like to use spoke shaves and an orbital sander for contours but your method will work well. Nice clean work, keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Cutting awefully close to the actual line imho. Jig saws tend to wobble bit and therefor it's sometimes better to leave some more room. Imagine body to be heavy as hell, am I right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 with regards to belly cuts & contours.....here's two ways, mine & Draks... http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...27172&st=15 Post #26 & #30 Drak's certainly looks simpler & is used by a few people here but until I've had time to try it I'll admit that it scares me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Rosewood is actually lighter than you think. And sounds great too. Clean work so far, keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Those are some clean and sharp looking routs, nice! FWIW, and this has just been my own personal direction the last couple of builds, but I am going entirely away from screws to hold the back plates when it comes to wood covers. I'm using one or two pairs of those little neodymium magnets to hold the covers on. I actually cut them in half, one half goes in the body, the other half recessed into the covers (so I make my covers on the thick side). Looks like East Indian RW, which (I think) is among the lightest of the rosewoods. What do you have in mind for the finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 That's excellent work so far. Wow! I love the look of that rosewood. The cavity covers are really nice too. How did you rout the cavity cover recesses? Do you have a separate template for those? That's what I had to do on my jem project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Thanks for the positive comments folks..... I'll thank whiteside router bits and taking several shallow passes to make the routes clean. The 1/8" template bit is the ticket for the recess plates! Far as the dust factor.....not much of a system other than my shopvac with a hepa filter. I also wear a dust mask. I cut the sides only and left the mass around the neck pocket prior to routing the neck pocket to avoid tipping. Far as the jigsaw cut.....I used a marker for the outline and cut slightly outside of that. However I ran into the wander factor when I cut out the horns. My goal was to leave a 1/16 to 1/8 of wood outside my actual line. Then use a 2" flush trim bit to square up the edges. Well I thought I was getting a deal when I bought a bit off of ebay for 12.00. Funny cuz whiteside wanted 40.00 for theirs. Needless to say the bit off ebay is junk! I ended up using the robo sander in my drill press to get the final shaping...slower yet safer! The body is heavy.....I'm at 6 lbs 5 oz. I have the contours to do and a hum route so that will take off some but my guess she'll be on the heavier side when done. My finish will be tru oil....not after a high gloss but a satin close to the wood type of vibe. I plan on using epoxy with some rosewood dust to fill the pores. Anyone see a prob with that and the tru oil??? I could always use a waterbase filler with some transtint added. I like the magnet idea erikbojerik...thinks it's a good idea too to keep the plates thicker. I used ebony from stewmac and the trem cover is slightly warped after shaping it. Thickness on the ebony plate is 3/32. I hurried and put a few coats of oil on them to prevent anymore movement.Thanks for tip biliousfrog......angle grinder seems to be the ticket. Seems to be fast with good control. Unfortunately I don't have one. May borrow one for the next project. If I like I'll defintely purchase one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Nice work man! Rosewood is my favourite wood! I love it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 Nice!! Love Rg's, Love rosewood. This is just awesome. Some good clean work you have there. I used an angle grinder with a sanding disk to carve my LP top and neck, i thought it was pretty easy to do, plenty of control. Keep the pics coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 10, 2007 Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 (edited) .I used a marker for the outline and cut slightly outside of that. However I ran into the wander factor when I cut out the horns. My goal was to leave a 1/16 to 1/8 of wood outside my actual line.That is cutting it close. My confort zone isn't anything less then 1/4" with the jigsaw. I rather do some more Robo/hand sanding then screwing up such a nice piece of wood. On my RGT-7 build, I was even affraid using template bit on final route. I did everything by hand. Call me chicken, but with some builds you just don't want to take any risks. I like the look of the rosewood. Have thought of doing an all wenge (body) guitar....but just testing the body wood at the woodsupplier just nearly broke my back. Do you have a separate template for those? That's what I had to do on my jem project. Isn't that the fun of guitar building.....all those darn templates. If you take shape/type you already have templates completed, you sometimes wonder why things are moving along so fast......oh, right.....not spending 80% of time building those darn templates. Edited January 11, 2007 by Scott Rosenberger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2007 (edited) Hey guitar2005...I used a 1/8" cutting depth template bit. You can snag one of these from routerbits.com. I made the inside route for the electronics cavity. The rest came with a kit. I have to make a dimarzio hum route.has some pretty tight corners. Most likely have to use a 1/4" straight bit and ride the shaft along the template. RGGR.....it's funny you mention wenge! I have a blank already to go....I posted some probs with it however. Dummy me wiped my glue joints and I have some glue way down in the pores. Tried every solvent out there.also tried steaming it out. I'll have to pick at the pores with a magnifying glass and pin.........or lose a 1/16 of an inch running it through a drum sander. Here's what I did today..took me 6 hrs..not too bad . You'll notice a few tear outs I'm in the process of filling....fortunately their not on the face. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...0/tummyfile.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...ummyorbital.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibnaz5150/annj.jpg http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibnaz5150/rosetop.jpg Edited January 11, 2007 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) it's funny you mention wenge! I have a blank already to go....I posted some probs with it however. Dummy me wiped my glue joints and I have some glue way down in the pores. Tried every solvent out there.also tried steaming it out. I'll have to pick at the pores with a magnifying glass and pin.........or lose a 1/16 of an inch running it through a drum sander.I simply love Wenge. The chocolaty dark streaks in it......the strange hard and soft bits when sanding it. (Yeah, it's a b*tch!!!), the open pores that sometimes drive you insane. I still don't know how you can deal with a full Wenge body. It must absolutely weigh a ton. I'm playing with the idea of a Wenge neck on .... simply fell in love with this picture from nuno on www.ibanez87.it Edited January 11, 2007 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 The piece I have is qautersawn.....I had no intentions of buying this . I initially went to pick up some ebony that was a super steal. By the time I got there the 3 pallets they had of it was already bought and shrink wrapped . Should be a pretty piece of wood with finish on her. I have to attend the pores before tooling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I have to attend the pores before tooling it. So you glued pieces together and with whiping the glue, you whiped it into some of the pores. Now some of the pores show glue instead of being just a pore. I see your problem. My guess would be that taking 1/16" or so off the body (or even maybe less) will cure most of your problem. Most pores aren't straight down.....so most of the glue will be sanded off this way. Still playing guitar like that would seriously brake your back. pffffff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 Hey guitar2005...I used a 1/8" cutting depth template bit. You can snag one of these from routerbits.com. I made the inside route for the electronics cavity. The rest came with a kit. I have to make a dimarzio hum route.has some pretty tight corners. Dummy me wiped my glue joints and I have some glue way down in the pores. Tried every solvent out there.also tried steaming it out. I'll have to pick at the pores with a magnifying glass and pin.........or lose a 1/16 of an inch running it through a drum sander. I couldn't find a template bit that was shorter than 1/2" for my cavity recesses. I had to make my templates thicker to use it I made all my dimarzio routes with it the same bit (1/2" radius). Worked out great. I'll check these guys out (routerbits.com) For the glue in the pores... You're supposed to wipe the glue. When you wipe it, make sure you use a damp rag that is rinsed often. the glue will get sucked into the rag. I usually take a first pass with a scraper, then use the rag to clean up the pores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I find that using tape between the glue line will help if I'm using big pored wood and don't want to clog the pores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I couldn't find a template bit that was shorter than 1/2" for my cavity recesses. I had to make my templates thicker to use it When it's the case you need a shallow cavity, just copy your proper "shallow" template, over to 18mm MDF, and this way, you still can use the 1/2" length router bit. I use this method all the time when routing the control and trem back covers. This way I don't have to deal with putting things under the template....to raise the height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielM Posted January 11, 2007 Report Share Posted January 11, 2007 I usually have a good clean thin template, then if it needs to be thicker (which very often is the case) I just glue loads of layers of MDF together, stick the thin template on top and get routing. you could say I have a template for templates... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibnaz5150 Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 What a royal pain....I made 2 master templates out of plexi.....I burned them up riding a 1/4" shaft. I made a few more from hardy board without the problem. Luckily I practiced on scrap! Think next time around I'm going to oversize the template and use one of those brass template guides. Thing with this route is it has very tight corners and a 3/8" bearing bit did'nt cut it...too rounded for my taste. Oh well we live and learn! Have the roundover to go...debating by hand or a 1/16" bit.....hate to get tearout coming this far. After that a boat load of sanding....then a finish. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...0/dimarzpup.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnn_h Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Not a RG fan , but i must say im really looking forward to see how this project is going to end, very clean work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Nice work man! Just be carefull and don´t make any mistake like I did... I suppose it will be natural-finished...Am I right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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