FlashBandit Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 (edited) Here's my unnamed project! It's a violin-looking-semi-hollow-hard tail-HH solid body electric. Specs: -Walnut carved top -Hard Ash Body -Maple Neck -Ebony fretboard -book matched (4 times) cocobolo veneer for headstock that has some sexy white sapling to contrast with the very dark old wood. -Two Humbuckers (thinking about duncans) -3 rotary switches that allow me 84 different pickup combinations (including phasing, parallel, series, coil splits etc! -volumes and tones for both pickups -24 3/4" scale length -Gold TOM bridge -Gold stop piece -Gold Rotomatic tuners -white plastic pu rings -white binding over top, fretboard and headstock Heres what I have so far, I'm getting there slowly. I swear, I'm spending 10x more time researching and studying than building! http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010029.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010046.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/100_0369.jpg I'm gonna bookmatch that cocobolo (with sapling) to make a headstock veneer! http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010055.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010054.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010060.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010052.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010053.jpg I'm so pleased with the neck, not to brag but I didn't know rasps and sand paper could get something that smooth. And it was alot easier to round the neck than I thought it would be. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s142/fl...tx/P1010067.jpg Starting the neck pocket with a forstner. Any tips on how to get glue squeeze out out of the f-hole? Or the electronics cavity for that matter? Edited September 9, 2007 by Maiden69 Only one pic per post, forum rule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleverPun Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Looks good! I wanted to plan a violin-shaped guitar, and make it cool lookin', but the only pictures I could find were of Paul Gilbert's violin-shaped guitars, and those aren't entirely inspiring, hahahaha. That's a HUGE top, compared to the body. It looks more like a half-and-half than a top Is the body actually a semi? Do you have any pics of the hollowed-out inside? Also, are the 3 rotary switches really worth it? You must know your stuff about wiring, then I'm the type who doesn't have anything that isn't essential. For my third build, I'm thinking of putting in a mini-switch instead of a 3-way tele-style switch, because I don't use the middle position, hahaha. Keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 That ebony FB sure looks strangely like cocobolo.. Interesting project though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the telecaster kid Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Dude, that looks sick. Shocklingly reminscent of a guitar i planned a while ago. Still toying with it, it may be a bit ambitous for my skill level... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 No one yet reponded to the question asked. I was going to last night, but my idea was only a guess, so I wanted to wait and let others respond about cleaning the glue sqeeze-out out of the f-hole and cavities. The only idea that I had which is obviously dangerous is maybe a dremel with router base. Just use a very short cutting bit, so it just cleans up the bottom of the cavity, that way you don't affect the shape of the f-hole. Not sure if a dremel would reach though, so maybe a router with a tiny bit and reattach the template for the f-hole to avoid hitting the sides of the cavity. Again, maybe something with a short cutting length and bearing to following the template. Just adjust it to where it is touching the bottom of the cavity, that way when routing it will route off all the glue. Again, this was just an idea. I have no idea of what other people have done, just throwing something out there with the hopes someone else has run into this same problem and has a better solution for you. Hand tools had crossed my mind, but it can be really easy to dent the sides of a little cavity like that when trying to work with hand tools, so I would personally avoid them on that. Well, your project is lookin wicked. I like the woods a lot, all very nice woods. Best of luck with everything and keep the pictures coming. Hope someone chimes in with some better advice for cleaning the cavities. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 That ebony FB sure looks strangely like cocobolo.. Interesting project though. oh right, good call. In some of the pictures I show a mock up with a piece of cocobolo I was going to use, but then I decided to get an ebony one from stew mac. And yeah, I think the 3 rotaries will be cool! They'll give me 84 different pickup combos, and if you've ever played with series or out of phase sounds (or mixes) you'd know it was worth it Sweet looking violin guitar! Looks alot like mine, but the horn's a little too extreme. The key element I'm going for is elegance, the old school body brings up ideas from the past, while a carved body with gold hardware just says class (at least in my mind) And thanks for the feedback! About the glue, I was considering using a chisel, but that may be too hard. And I actually didn't use a template for the f hole, I drew it on by hand and cut it out with a scroll saw, rasps and files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 If it's just ordinary wood glue, acetone will melt it away --maybe mask off the top first though. You could melt the glue with the acetone then scrape it away with an exacto or a razor blade. That way you don't risk damaging the edges of the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 It's titebond III, the water proof stuff. Will acetone still work? If so, you saved me alot of grief! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Avoid the titebond III, stick with original. You don't need waterproof glue for guitars, and the additives which aid it's water resistance also prevent it from setting hard and resisting creep. Same is true of II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Avoid the titebond III, stick with original. You don't need waterproof glue for guitars, and the additives which aid it's water resistance also prevent it from setting hard and resisting creep. Same is true of II. How much of a problem is it that I already used it on the body? And is creep just when the two pieces move in relation to eachother? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 I have what may be a dumb question, but if it is a semi-hollow why isn't the ash portion of the body chambered? You can see the f-hole goes straight down the the ash, but the ash is still in one piece, there is no cavity there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 (edited) I have what may be a dumb question, but if it is a semi-hollow why isn't the ash portion of the body chambered? You can see the f-hole goes straight down the the ash, but the ash is still in one piece, there is no cavity there. maybe it's not clear in the photo, but the entire left side of the guitar is an open chamber, and then I also put a chamber in the horn, but it's airtight, and more for lessening the weight. When the top is carved, it should be a little more obvious, but it's just so thick right now. Also, please look at my question before if you can help, but I have another question too. Sorry, I'm full of em. My neck is 1/16" too thin around the 10th fret on, and it gets a little worse as you go further. What do I do? It'll be bound, will that help? Or is 1/16 not enough to worry about? That is 1/32" off either side, or 1/16" from what it should be. Thanks! Edited September 10, 2007 by FlashBandit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 Um, Is this thread dead? I know there are some gurus out there somewhere! Please help me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black_labb Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 I have what may be a dumb question, but if it is a semi-hollow why isn't the ash portion of the body chambered? You can see the f-hole goes straight down the the ash, but the ash is still in one piece, there is no cavity there. maybe it's not clear in the photo, but the entire left side of the guitar is an open chamber, and then I also put a chamber in the horn, but it's airtight, and more for lessening the weight. When the top is carved, it should be a little more obvious, but it's just so thick right now. Also, please look at my question before if you can help, but I have another question too. Sorry, I'm full of em. My neck is 1/16" too thin around the 10th fret on, and it gets a little worse as you go further. What do I do? It'll be bound, will that help? Or is 1/16 not enough to worry about? That is 1/32" off either side, or 1/16" from what it should be. Thanks! when you say too thin, how do you mean. do you mean width (measuring paralell to the frets) or thickness ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 found this one on ebay. look familiar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 width parallel to frets. I'm worried the strings won't have enough room. I can cut the fretboard to the right size, but then it might not (would not) match up with the neck 100% unless I did something about it. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 You mean the width of the neck. Get a consistent taper along each side by say 1/32" and then add another 1/32" laminate on each side to fix your issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 It's already carved/rounded. Are you suggesting I just glue a long "splinter" in there? Should I do that before or after I attach the fretboard? Also, should I put the binding on the fretboard before or after attaching the fretboard to the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted September 16, 2007 Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 (edited) oops! too late. you should've asked this question before shaping the neck. about the binding, you can do it both ways. I like to bind the fretboard before gluing it to the neck. Edited September 16, 2007 by Hector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted September 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 so do you taper the fretboard thinner than you want so that the binding brings it to the right thickness? And is it easier to have the frets poke out through slots in the binding or to be covered by the binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 so do you taper the fretboard thinner than you want so that the binding brings it to the right thickness? And is it easier to have the frets poke out through slots in the binding or to be covered by the binding? 1 yes 2 its easier to cut the fret slots on the entire thing, bindings and all. if you want the binding to cover the end of the frets, you're gonna have way more work to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashBandit Posted December 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 (edited) Well, I'd hate to revive this 6 month old thread, but it's done! The necks fat, and there are some visible defects, but it plays nice and has decent action. And the sound is actually to die for, but that may just be the SD PG-1s talking. Tell me what you think! Edited December 17, 2007 by FlashBandit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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