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Iceman


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Leveled the finish this morning. I'm EXTREMELY happy with the results.

Now I'm assembling & wiring it. I have KISS playing through the computer. I thought it appropriate.

Nice. Good to hear.

Pics soon sir ?????? :D

Soon, my young padawan. I'm not ready to take the paper off of the front yet - not until I'm sure the wiring is good. And I'm out of strings :D so I can't check anything yet.

FWIW: the Dynasty is wired up too. I buffed it out yesterday and did the assembly. I'm waiting for a new electrosocket and the neck plate for final assembly.

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The black and white really looks sharp. I do like the idea of using the vinegar to darken the wood to keep the natural feel. But without any finish I would worry about warping in the future, at worst a lot of truss rod adjustments throughout the year as the weather changes.

How does the pattern on that sprayer look. Some rattle cans have a nice fan pattern some are round. I've used the Preval sprayers, and they were round but just never sprayed nicely.

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The black and white really looks sharp. I do like the idea of using the vinegar to darken the wood to keep the natural feel. But without any finish I would worry about warping in the future, at worst a lot of truss rod adjustments throughout the year as the weather changes.

How does the pattern on that sprayer look. Some rattle cans have a nice fan pattern some are round. I've used the Preval sprayers, and they were round but just never sprayed nicely.

I don't suppose this unfinished neck will be at any more risk than any other. Before I made this one, I was at Guitar Center checking out how binding is worked out on high-end unfinished Ibanez maple necks. If it's done on the $1K+ guitars, I didn't figure it'd be a real issue. Heck, the Carvin kit I've been playing for 11 years has a basically raw maple neck - just a couple coats of "tung oil", which is exactly what I gave this one. I hear what you're saying though. Only line will tell.

The pattern wasn't want I expected at all. I suppose it was as round as any given sprayer will be. When it dried, the finish left an odd pattern. It was kinda like a good deep burl, but without the little dots in between the veins. It all sanded out right away, so it was all on the surface. Still, it had me concerned until I leveled it out.

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Wow. This is very nicely done, John. Very impressive to look at. I wasn't really feeling the white sides until you turned it over and the black neck join is visible. Then it rocks. :D How bad is it going to pi$$ you off when the face gets scratched? It will get scrached. :D

SR

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I know that it'll get scratched. There's just no avoiding it. The PDF booklet the manufacturer sent me actually told how to buff out the scratches. Essentially, you just sand it up as high as yuo can get, starting with a grit that's just barely able to work through them initially. To me, that sounds a LOT like buffing out the finish or polishing the fretboard. I guess that makes the short answer micro-mesh.

Dust and fingerprints are going to be just part of the package as well. Thankfully, they're a lot easier to take care of with some Windex.

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I have to add something else here as well. These are easily the best singles I've ever had. Granted, I haven't had many, but these are fantastic. They were wound to be as hot as a P-90, but still retain all the character of a regular s/c. In some ways, they're better than P-90s. They have so much twang that they almost quack. The tone actually shifts slightly from string to string. It progresses from warm on the low E to middy to a lot of bite on the high E. Then factor in the jumper switch on the bridge pup and the phase reversal on the middle. DANG this is my new favorite ax.

All I can say is if you've ever considered doing business with RestorationAD for pickups, you absolutely do NOT need to hesitate and wonder if they're worth it or if they sound good. Thank you SO much, RAD. These are awesome!

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You're getting better with every instrument John, and it's clearly showing that you're doing so. What did you take from this build?

That's an excellent question. There are a number of things that are going to stick with me from this one. In no particular order:

It's OK to go thin on the body, especially a larger one.

You can't go very thin with a back-bolt. Those will have to be reserved for bodies at least 1.75" or more.

Don't taper the tongue of a back-bolt.

Try like he11 to avoid having a finished back but not a finished front. The finish/plain transition is a b1tch to get smooth.

Basswood kinda sucks to work with. It shapes & cuts easy, but is easily dinged.

5/16" fretboard blanks are 1/16" too thick when you're using a hardtail bridge. It leave very little room to work with for the action.

Acrylic is a PIA to work with around the edges.

The BOWWASCIITHTFPI was an amazing invention. "Pressing" the frets is not only easier, but gives me a MUCH better end result. I'm NEVER going to hammer another fret.

MISTO works pretty dang good for spraying a clear finish.

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Bling all the way! Owwwwwwwwwwww! :D

Nice work John, someone had already stated best work to date, im in agreement! Really like that you used a strat type pickup layout, really suits this axe.The best part is you can do your makeup between songs. :D

Edited by chops1983
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