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Les Paul Style Build


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Wait... who cut these?

Chris

this is what happens every time I let anyone do anything for me. It comes back wrong. I cut the initial body blank with my jigsaw, and that came out perfect. Maybe I'll just get some new blades and use the jigsaw until I get a bandsaw setup next year... Or maybe I'll just hold off on my builds till I get my own tools.

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I donno about a fretboard, but I have a few ideas on what I can do. I have some walnut that I'm thinking of laminating with some thin strips of flame maple. I have some Birdseye left over as well. We'll see.

Sorry I missed the question o weather or not these were supposed to be two neck blanks. Yes, it was supposed to be 2. I figured if he messed up on one then the other would at least be salvagable.

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Hey Narc, thanks for the laugh.Man , I think I could do a better job with a chain saw.This is the kind of thing that makes you go *** , who would take a job ,with no skills to do such job.I say ,take him out back and shoot him in the butt with a BB gun,that would be a good start.Oh, had to laught just because of the sheer WHAT factor.

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Hey Narc, thanks for the laugh.Man , I think I could do a better job with a chain saw.This is the kind of thing that makes you go *** , who would take a job ,with no skills to do such job.I say ,take him out back and shoot him in the butt with a BB gun,that would be a good start.Oh, had to laught just because of the sheer WHAT factor.

you mean - he didn't use a chainsaw?? :D:D

hey - you're in the States - jus' sue his ass!!! B)

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  • 1 month later...

I've given myself some time to calm down, and I'm ready to start on this again.

I went out and bought myself a nice maple burl. With some advice from Drak's builds, I tried seeing the guitar in the wood. I ended up picking something from Oregon Wildwood. Using photoshop, I was able to make a clear template and drag it over parts of the picture of the different burls that I wanted to buy to see if it would look good on the instrument. We'll see how that worked out when it comes in around Wednesday!

I'm still looking for a fretboard right now. I do like Ziricote, but I don't know if it'll be too loud as far as patterns and stuff go. I need something to offset the color balance between the figured body, top and headstock. Once I've got my top wood and fretboard in, I'll have something physical to lay out in front of me and I'll be able to choose what I want for hardware and binding!

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I'm still very confused with what happened to the neck blank... How could that happen ?? Where is the part missing in the middle ??

Anyway, the body looks terrific. How do you plan to do the mortise/tenon ?? If you plan to do a full width neck pocket, a gradual heel will look better and be much more comfortable. What I used in my LP-like and the singlecut builds is actually an extreme version of the PRS singlecut neck-body joint and it works and looks (IMO) very well.

The blacktop Gibson style looks killer, but also does a flame maple top stained in charcoal/trans-black. If I wanted black is what I would do, but I'm a maple-top kinda person...

Another option could be flamed redwood. Nik Huber does a very nice redwood tops with black staining. He also has an interesting, less bulky neck-body joint.

Is this the one you plan to carve the top on ??

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Hey Blackdog,

This is the one I plan on carving the top on! I looked through a bunch of redwood tops on oregon wildwood, and I ended up checking out the maple burls. I think I chose a pretty sweet one that should match the contours and shape of the body, especially after the carve. Its going to be a pretty shallow carve, as the top is only .25" thick (approx 5mm). I could also drop top it. We'll see how i feel when it gets here. All I know is that the pattern on it is perfect. We'll have to wait and see how i feel about the color.

There will be pics!

The neck joint will be a gradual heal. The gibson ones feel OK to me, but I'd rather have that nice gradual feel, rather than something that feels like an acoustic. We'll see. I'm still picking out my woods, and after that i'll decide on how I want to put it all together.

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Its going to be a pretty shallow carve, as the top is only .25" thick (approx 5mm). I could also drop top it.

I don't think you can do much of a carve on a 1/4" thick top. The very subtle carve of the Les Paul is done with a 1/2" top.

You can definitely drop-top it. I've never tried, maybe bending burl is a bit trickier than straight grained maple ??

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  • 2 weeks later...

My Burl came in today. I'm pretty excited to start work on it. I'm going to cut some pieces off the edges of it first and play with those for a while to test out the jointer on before I joint the center pieces. I have plenty of material to make a headstock veneer with this as well.

P7210015.jpg

Here is the whole top piece in its original state on top of my body blank for reference

P7210016.jpg

Bookmatched with the body outline drawn in with pencil

P7210018.jpg

The Pictures don't do the top justice. Its a rainy day today, so I'm not getting any good natural light, and flash needs to be used. I'll post better pics as the build progresses.

The top itself is .60" thick, or 11cm. I still need to plane the back side though, so it'll probably drop down to .5" thick.

I'm super happy that my measurements with the body and the blank turned out exactly as planned. The "knots" are where they're supposed to be, and when I joint the center edges, they'll be exactly where they're supposed to be. All the tiger striping is where its supposed to be as well. I'm also very pleased with Oregon Wildwood for supplying me with this wonderful maple burl :D

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For anyone who's interested in photography,

P7220018.jpg

Direct Sunlight (blue skies)

P7220020.jpg

Indirect sunlight (overcast)

These are with a touch of mineral spirits to show off the grain. I think this will look pretty nice with some sort of dark color for the endgrain, and deep red as the setting... though I'm colorblind, so that could turn out in a way I don't want it to.

Drak, I'd like your opinion if you're watching, please :D

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Looking at what I have for tools, I'm going to have to put this on hold for a while. I really want to joint the top pieces, but I really should let the wood get aclimated to my area. So right now its book clamped between two boards of MDF.

Then there's the neck. I have the headstock blank sitting here, and I have the neck blank sitting here. I keep reaching for the miter saw, but then I keep going back and saying "I really should be doing this with a band saw." I also keep getting confused, because for some reason I'm having trouble imagining the whole process of cutting the angle, flipping it around and gluing it back on...

There's also the scarf joint. I've done one before, but it came out like crap. I have a jointer now, so I can do it correctly, but I don't know how to get it across the blades at an angle like that, safely... so I gotta figure that out before I do anything.

After the bandsaw work, its smooth sailing, and I can do everything else with the jigsaw, router, and handtools!

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Good call on acclimating the wood, although ensureing airflow is the way to do that. Clamping it flat-ish between a few stiff boards might help a little, but you may just need to let it move around and settle. Simply stickering and weighting is the better way to go there.

Re: scarf joint, grab a bit of scrap and practice on that. Do it once and it'll click again. You really don't need a bandsaw to do the joint, however; I mean, I'll be using mine from here on out, but to date every single one's been done by hand with a japanese saw, and that works just fine. I don't own a jointer (yet), but I'd be more than a little bit worried about using one for a short surface like the scarf. That's a job for a block plane (or a #3, #4, #5 is overkill and too big. The block is what gets used here the most).

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