avengers63 Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 The flash is washing it out, but it's kinda dark without it. I WOULD take them outside, but it's f'ing SNOWING today! We have 3" so far with more on the way. Anyway.... I'm thinking that the next one might end up a Warlock or some other big-a$$ design that would benefit greatly from the thin body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Rebuild #2 ash, cherry, and maple neck-through white limba wings 1/4" quilted maple top - to be dyed turquoise beveled & scalloped headstock beveling on horns & forearm area teak fretboard, abalone snowflake inlays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 This has a ton of potential! the design elements work very nicely together. I really like the bevel and scallop on the headstock. I will offer one design suggestion. Consider treating the top end of your headstock to more closely mimic the tips of your horns. In other words, less round over and more point on the tip. My .02. Nice regroup on this, I hope it goes better. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdshirtman Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 This has a ton of potential! the design elements work very nicely together. I really like the bevel and scallop on the headstock. I will offer one design suggestion. Consider treating the top end of your headstock to more closely mimic the tips of your horns. In other words, less round over and more point on the tip. My .02. Nice regroup on this, I hope it goes better. SR I agree about tying in the horns and headstock. Very nice looking headstock design by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Thanks for the input. The top is all carved, sanded, dyed, and the sealer coat put on to protect the color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Very nice ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Very Very Nice! ... sorry had to jump in as I have stake in this with experimental pups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 That's three..... do we have four? I've been working on the fretboard this week. After it was radiused and sanded up to 320, I put the usual two coats of linseed oil on it. 2 says after the final coat, it's still oily to the touch. I knew teak was naturally oily, but I didn't think it was up to cocobolo levels. Oh well. A good rubbing with mineral spirits and a couple of coats of shellac will seal it all in. Maybe I can get it polished up, fretted, and glued on before the weekend is over. Prolly not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 That's three..... do we have four? I've been working on the fretboard this week. After it was radiused and sanded up to 320, I put the usual two coats of linseed oil on it. 2 says after the final coat, it's still oily to the touch. I knew teak was naturally oily, but I didn't think it was up to cocobolo levels. Oh well. A good rubbing with mineral spirits and a couple of coats of shellac will seal it all in. Maybe I can get it polished up, fretted, and glued on before the weekend is over. Prolly not. I would suggest some adding a drier to the linseed oil before using on oily woods. Pure Boiled Linseed oil can take a long time to dry... make sure it is very dry before putting the varnish on it. I would fear you trap the linseed oil before it finishes drying. With all oils I wait until they stop smelling to cover them. I use behlen fretboard oil for covering oily fretboards and I go very light on the coats after I have fretted. The behlen fretboard oil is not just oil but more of a mix of stuff. It is usually used on violin fretboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 first leveling stupid fluorescent lighting is messing with the color I'm using water-based lacquer on the flame, tinted with the leftover dye. It's making the color about 3-feet deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 I have all of the lacquer on. Now I need to finish carving the neck, glue on the fretboard, and oil the remaining wood. I have time though since I need to leave the lacquer alone for a few weeks to cure. Honestly, I'm not sure if w/b lacquer needs the extra time, but there's no sense in hurrying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 So I go to glue on the f/b last night, but the truss rod channel is way off. I look at it, and it's aligned with the center lam perfectly. Somehow, I cut the whole damn neck wrong. How in THE he11 can someone at my point in experience 1) do that and 2) not notice it until now. I mean seriously... It's not that hard. You line up the template with the center line, mark the edges, and cut it. It's just not complicated enough to fock it up like this. And then not notice that the top of the channel is way off center? Even when you even out the t/r access in the headstock? I'm NOT willing to let a SECOND quilted top go to waste. I'd rather not let everything else go either. I have an idea, but I'd really like to hear from anyone who might have something productive to suggest as to how to salvage as much of this as possible. The LAST resort is to plane off the base of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 this is a crazy idea but could you cut the neck off and rout it out of the body then just replace the neck? you should be able to save the top that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Crooked truss rod channel? I vote: No big deal, keep building. Some people purposely put in a slanted truss rod route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 wait... as in the laminates are central to the edges of the neck? I say who cares. unless that means your neck carve would cut into the channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hmmm... I can see it in the last headstock picture now. I would be afraid you are going to hit the trussrod channel during carving the neck. +1 JF Cut the neck off... build new one... make it a set neck. +1 T37 Or else make a SERIOUS D shape on the carve... then when it fails cut the neck off... build new one... make it a set neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 as a structural fix i would fill and reroute. then there is no reason the finished product wouldn't work just like it should. but it does mean there is a chance of revealing the fill when carving the neck in which case i would spray the whole back and sides a solid colour. you may not want to cover up the laminations - but if it works its worth considering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 The reason the TRC is crooked isn't because I did it crooked, it's because I somehow cut the neck crooked. It's no longer aligning right with the pups - which are very stationary. My initial thought was exactly what Tim and Wez suggested - cut off the neck, rout out the center of the back, and drop in a new neck-through piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 my suggestion wasn't anything as severe as that - i just meant fill in the truss rod with slot and reroute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juntunen Guitars Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I had to fix something like this once. What I did though was cut the wings off and edge sand them flush again then glued in a new neck. I had to sit and re adjust clamps for almost a half hour to keep the wings lined up with the new neck stock but it worked ... Just be sure to measure it a few times to make sure it's the right size. I had to cut the neck out twice ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I think I misunderstood you... From the pics, I see equal amounts of neck lam in the pup pockets.... I see a crooked looking TR rout at the headstock..... its hard to see just what is 'wrong' though. In the initial mock-ups with the fretboard, it looks fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I don't know how else to say it. The truss rod was cut dead center. I cut the neck itself wrong. When I put the template for the taper onto the neck, I did it crooked. You wouldn't notice it with the f/b lying in place, but the "crooked TRC" made it stand out like a sore thumb. Anyway, here's what we have now.... I used double-sided template tape to stick the body to a piece of hardboard. That should give it enough support to not snap in half from the weight of the wings. Then I routed it all out. The plan now is to make the center lams again, but in reverse. I'll make the two ash lams the same thickness, then plane the cherry center to match the gap. It's not all a total loss. I originally wanted this to be a Fender style headstock, not a tiltback, so I can do that now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Sorry for being dense. It all looked good to me from what I could see. Nice save though ! Thats a real clean neck removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 yeah, i wasn't getting it - but there is nothing new there so far the solution looks good - just got to be damn careful with that thing till the new neck goes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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