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Project S906 #3


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Very, very clean build.....like always.

I know you don't like rings, but those white bobbins would look pretty nice surrounded by the same black as your bridge and knob.

SR

No.

As in no soup for you! :D

Rings are for people who do abalone/mop bindings and destroy beautiful fretboards with heinous/hideous inlays...

You should know me better by now. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Best use of white pickups I've seen in a LONG time!

Chris

Thanks.... I used the aged white bobbins for this set. Real white is too white and cream matched the top too much. The customer wanted zebra but I hate zebra pups so I told him this is what he is getting... I am excited about how this one is turning out.

If the friggin weather will hold (stop raining everyday) I will finish coating it this weekend.

BTW - I have 2 fans running in my paint booth moving the air through. I got the idea to leave them on all the time from your drying box... props for the suggestion.

:D

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Is it just me or has it been a long time since you posted a lacquer finish? I'm looking forward to seeing this top all shiny. What did you use to grain fill?

SR

I only finish lacquer guitars once a year... lacquer gets done in the Summer... I do oil the rest of the year.

I didn't grain fill. I hit it with a layer of sanding sealer and filled it with nitro. Everything else was too risky. I tested some killer System 3 epoxy that was hard as a rock and clear as glass. It would have taken 3 years to sand and level it out after it cured and I couldn't be guaranteed the nitro would stick to it.

So I ended up going old school on it...

I did super glue on the V and it worked but it got blotchy... the humidity is just too high right now.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just so you know it can be too hot for lacquer to cure.

After 2 weeks this thing is still too soft to sand and buff. When I was wet sanding the tele (I used it to judge when to work on the real guitars) I was getting little balls of clear rolling up under the paper. These little balls of lacquer are so hard they leave huge scratches in the clear.

The guitars have been hanging in the garage for 2 weeks. At about 110F every day it has been too hot for them to cure.

Here was how I put the clear on.

2 weeks ago:

1 Coat Behlens sanding sealer.

Let dry and sand with 320 dry.

About 7 coats of straight Behlens Qualac. No reducer.

Produced serious orange peel.

1 week ago:

Sand the orange peel off with 400/600 grit and mineral spirits. Cleaned up.

Reduced 30% with Qualaq reducer and 10% thinner and shot about 12 coats. I shoot them 3 at a time then after they flash (about 2 hours) shoot the next 3.

next day:

Last coats for buffing are 50% thinner and clear. About 5 coats.

So today I figured out that it was still to soft to sand and buff. Because the tele had these horrid deep scratches in it after sanding with 800 (I started on the back). see above.

This meant a phone call to the old man (Dad). He is the one who taught me to shoot clear (he was shooting lacquer before I was born)... anyway he explained that I needed to scuff the surface and bring them in out of the heat. Apparently in my attempts to lay a few really flat coats on I thinned the mix too "hot". Basically what happened is the last thin coats soaked through and softened everything underneath. These coats flashed off too fast and trapped the thinner in the lower layers. Of course the heat was not helping. He explained that 55 - 85 was the best for nitro back in the day (they have been at 100+ for weeks).

I brought them in the house (75-77). The scuff of the top coat should allow the lower coats to finally gas off.

If you have read enough of this forum you should know that for wet sanding using water with a little bit of ivory soap in the mix for wet sanding (of course the old man suggested this as well). Make sure everything is sealed. If you get water in the wood under the clear it will be bad. Mineral spirits works well and I use it a lot but it does not keep the paper as clean as water/soap.

I will let you guys know what happens after these things cool off.

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Your Dad sounds like one sharp cookie.

I have run into solvent re-wetting and delayed out-gassing issues in my field too. (It's interesting to see the similarities in a clear coat for printing and one for wood working). I would never have guessed that the heat played a negative role. You would expect it to help expedite the evaporation of the solvents. Didn't I read a post from Perry some time ago saying he had built a heated drying room for just that purpose? Nevertheless, I can certainly see how a quick surface cure would trap solvents in deeper layers....and have indeed experienced just that thing in the printing world.

SR

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Your Dad sounds like one sharp cookie.

I have run into solvent re-wetting and delayed out-gassing issues in my field too. (It's interesting to see the similarities in a clear coat for printing and one for wood working). I would never have guessed that the heat played a negative role. You would expect it to help expedite the evaporation of the solvents. Didn't I read a post from Perry some time ago saying he had built a heated drying room for just that purpose? Nevertheless, I can certainly see how a quick surface cure would trap solvents in deeper layers....and have indeed experienced just that thing in the printing world.

SR

Heated drying room for epoxy makes sense... also a controlled heating drying room makes sense. My shop is completely uncontrolled both temp and humidity fluctuate like made.

Perry has time/patience/experience to do things right.

I was kinda winging it with yet another new clear... live and learn I guess. In the old days I used to shoot 3M Lacquer with lead and all kinds of good stuff in it. It always worked perfect.

I would hang most of this on me supping up the mix too much and spraying to quick.

I think they were flashing off too quick (I mean really fast as in dry to the touch in a few minutes). I try to follow the rules of painting between 11 am and 5 pm so the temp stays the same and humidity is usually low (big temp changes are bad).

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  • 1 month later...
Horn_Close_1.jpg

Nice photography. This one is how I like to take photos also. Nice focus on the subject material with a shallow depth of field. To me it emphasises the "tangible reality" of the instrument since your attention is drawn to specific small familiar areas. Full body shots just don't sell an instrument compared to these.

A nice refreshing change. Pale body wood is not commonly seen.

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