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Searls - Black V6


demonx

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I dig the way you do the heels on these things. slick

It's one thing that I've never seen done before, I know bcrich do similar, but I'm just taking that next step.

When you have your hand there it feels so natural, I can't believe it's not "standard" !

As cool as it is I hope no big company starts doing it as I want it to stay mine!

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It's one thing that I've never seen done before, I know bcrich do similar, but I'm just taking that next step.

When you have your hand there it feels so natural, I can't believe it's not "standard" !

As cool as it is I hope no big company starts doing it as I want it to stay mine!

Most manufacturers stick to what is standard or fashionable at that particular time. They take standardisation very seriously for manufacturing purposes aswell. So your freaky heel is probobly safe for the moment.

But still, its a cool design so you never know. When I get my Cnc sorted I might just steal it :D

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More progress. In primer today.

Doing a bit of an experiment, I'd normally sand back to 320 before primer. On this guitar I've only done a 120 sand. Now normally I'd yell at someone for doing this, but I'm just trying out a high solids primer that I'm not used to and I want to know how much it actually does fill the grain.

also have been talking to a paint technican from the company that makes the paint I use, he suggested that when spraying timber I should not spray the same as I would a car and that I should spray a light primer coat, let it dry, do the same for the second coat and third. I tried this but on the third coat I saw it wasn't filling too well so I just layed it on thick.

I'm expecting to have to sand it back and reprime, but if I don't experiment then I don't know how far I can push it and still get a good result!

Yep - got a couple runs too. I usually spray with heat lamps but it's so damn hot here I figured I wouldn't need them. Apparently I did. Oh well, it's only primer, it'll sand out.

You can see the first one in the heel carve I did on the rear, then the second run is just below the fingerboard on the front left hand side.

IMG_1670small.jpg

IMG_1669small.jpg

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Great heel. Just a PITA if you want to pop in a pickup rammed up the end of the fingerboard I guess.

I managed in the rhoads I built, but I can assure you I had the veneer calipers out constantly checking how much wood was left and when I went to mount the pickup I cut 5mm off the end of the screw to make sure it didn't rear itself out the back.

This guitar I didn't worry as the guy only wants the bridge hum, but I'm sure I could still get a neck pup in, just. Very carefully!

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Eh. Neck Pickups are over-rated.

My personal builds mostly have a single in the neck as I use that often for clean tone, however this build is for a local gigging artist and it's being built to his spec, I like the specs as a builder so I'm liking the build. In fact it's the quickest I've ever had a guitar to paint stage... Two weeks!

The way I'm experimenting on the paint with this one will greatly reduce my paint time, which should be just under two weeks also, so it should be a complete build in a month, which smashes any record I've set. The simple specs helped that a lot!

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Eh. Neck Pickups are over-rated.

My personal builds mostly have a single in the neck as I use that often for clean tone, however this build is for a local gigging artist and it's being built to his spec, I like the specs as a builder so I'm liking the build. In fact it's the quickest I've ever had a guitar to paint stage... Two weeks!

The way I'm experimenting on the paint with this one will greatly reduce my paint time, which should be just under two weeks also, so it should be a complete build in a month, which smashes any record I've set. The simple specs helped that a lot!

+1 says the minimalist.

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Ok... so as I predicted i'd be sanding this one back. The 120 grit sand and high solids promer didnt meet my quality control.

Here it is sanded back to 320 this time:

IMG_1688small.jpg

Getting all my product together:

The cheapo thinner in the right side of the pic is for cleaning up afterwards.

The primer is the same autothane HS primer I've been trying out lately

The hardner is FAST. I always try to use fast hardner with primer.

IMG_1689small.jpg

Mixed up enough to spray 2 more coats and have some left over:

When I mix I pour all the ingredients, then I stir ten times right, ten times left, right, left, right, left until I'm over a hundred. If you dont ulternate your stirring then the product is just whirling around and not mixing properly. Sometimes I'll mix well over the hundred count until I'm satisfied. I count it in my head as 123... 10, 123 etc 20, 123 etc 30. Makes counting to a hundred easier. I learned this stirring method whilst I worked in a biotechnolgy laboritory in the media room mixing chemicals. They were very **** about exactness and it rubbed off.

IMG_1691small.jpg

Here is is after one full coat and soon to get another. Nice and smooth this time. No sign of grain or anything. Will sand back great ready for color in a few days.

IMG_1695small.jpg

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Primer sanded back to 600

Then I untape the board egdes, knock back the primer so it's flush and retape about half a bees dick above the primer line so theres no tape lines in the finished paint:

IMG_1704small.jpg

After everything is tack ragged I spray a tack coat - I spray this with the same technique and pressure as I'd spray a full coat, I just move the gun about 4 times faster

IMG_1707small.jpg

Then onto the full coats:

IMG_1710small.jpg

Clear to come soon - I'm having lunch while the basecoat flashes off, then I'll spray three coats of clear.

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One of my favorite quotes was attributed to Mark Twain speaking to someone he disagreed with: If your brain was increase in size a hundred fold, it would still rattle around in a gnat's arse. I'm guessing half a bee's dick is in the same ballpark sizewise?

Very nice coverage of paint techniques. We don't get to see that very often around here.

SR

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