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Searls - Black V6


demonx

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That is the black I'm talking about....although perfect would be the kind of deep black you get on top end show cars. Silly black. None more.

Considering it's the same products you'd find on a "top end" show car it'd bloody well wanna look good!

I think the clear costs about $480.00 for the smallest tin, the hardener for the clear $88.00 then the thinner for the clear is $50.00. Then add the primers and color, there's around $900.00 minimum purchase to do this paint job. Of course that paint will do several guitars, but that's the minimum outlay for these products to start off with.

So it's not exactly hardware store grade product! I've used cheaper clears before and they just don't compete.

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I should mention those are our local prices, the same stuff is probably quarter to half the price in USA

I was going to have a heart attack! I have been buying 2K paint for a while and I can get a quart of decent clear for around $50 including the activator and reducer, and very good clear for maybe double that.

Guitar is coming out great as always!

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Well hey,man...it hardly matters that the paint is expensive since you are using it so well...I would not want to spend that much on my paint jobs,but mine aren't as good as yours.I guess the extra cost makes you concentrate on your work intensely so you don't waste.

I pay about $100 or a hair more per gallon of the catalytic varnish I use....It is about half the price of automotive 2k around here,but I like it

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Pretty much everything here in Australia ia WAY more expensive. We're just used to it. You guys get it easy!

To add to the blow of inflated prices, unless you have a special licence, you cannot import paint/chemical products. Then even if you do, most of the USA companies won't sell it outside the USA. If they do it has to be shipped not sent by air, which takes 3+ months, so it's just not worth it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow!! Incredible!! Perfect finish! i love it!

Thanks mate. Means a lot since I know you know your **** and have some pretty nice guitars in your collection.

Coming from your/our background you should understand the inspiration in most of my builds!

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Pretty much everything here in Australia ia WAY more expensive. We're just used to it. You guys get it easy!

To add to the blow of inflated prices, unless you have a special licence, you cannot import paint/chemical products. Then even if you do, most of the USA companies won't sell it outside the USA. If they do it has to be shipped not sent by air, which takes 3+ months, so it's just not worth it.

It happens the same here in Venezuela, everything is ****ing expensive. I just came from a trip in Spain...everything was a LOT cheaper. The only cheap thing in this country is gasoline, that´s all. Add to that the restrictions we have because of our lovely goverment. We can only spend 400$ per year on internet purchases.

At least the 2k auto clear and colors are cheap enough, and they are by brands like DuPont and PPG. I am using Chroma Clear ...might switch to PPG but i don´t know which clear/base color/primer to use.

I know very well the DuPont line...

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A couple of small updates on this beast:

The Bareknuckle painkiller was too much of a pickup to be hardwired. Came out a bit boomy and overdriven, needed something to take the load. Usually with a put or stitch attached it's enough to solve this but the customer wanted none, so I attached a 470k resistor with some aligator clips. Seems to be enough to solve the problem. Will wire it in later.

The other problem is the nut, the roller nut I originally planned on using was useless with the thick guage strings the customer wanted, so I replaced it with a lock nut I had laying around (as seen in pics) however I'm not happy with the lock nut as it has no radius, so I've ordered a higher quality lock nut, should be here in a week.

Only then will I be able to finish setting up this machine. As it is the thing feels great to play and alraedy plays better than a off the shelf guitar, so once I get a better lock nut it will be unstoppable!

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Excellent finish quality! Well done. Do you find everything is nice and solid despite so much wood being removed from the neck joint?

There's more wood there than on a bolt on guitar!

Most of the carve is body not neck, so there's not even a question of stability, besides, it's neck thru, not a fixed neck, so it's solid as a rock. Plenty meat left if I wanted to take even more off but it's not needed

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First off, I HATE V's, Im not a neckthrough guy, and I dont like pointy headstocks.... but WOW you seemed to create a great "amalgam" with the mix. The paint looks incredible, and that neck joint looked shady at first, but looks to die for now.

Second off, I was under the impression the point of beveling fret slots was to help during a refret. It's supposed to make things easier as far as chipouts are concerned.

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First off, I HATE V's, Im not a neckthrough guy, and I dont like pointy headstocks.... but WOW you seemed to create a great "amalgam" with the mix. The paint looks incredible, and that neck joint looked shady at first, but looks to die for now.

Second off, I was under the impression the point of beveling fret slots was to help during a refret. It's supposed to make things easier as far as chipouts are concerned.

Thankyou for the compliments

Not sure what you mean by "looked shady" but I'm glad you like it now! I'm not a massive V guy myself either, but this one just looks bloody awesome hanging with my other guitars. Will still be a while till the owner collects, so I get to keep it for a bit!

The idea behind beveling fret slots (I can't take credit for this concept, I got the idea while scrolling through a stew Mac video) is that the underneath of a fret is not perfect and that imperfection may allow it to not sit flush to the board if the slot isn't beveled somewhat.

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The tang and teeth on the tang is way past the bevel (unless you go nuts) so it's no issue. The bevel is only very slight.

Shady...! That pic is fresh off the band saw hacking away the excess! Of couse it's gonna look shite raw like that!

Hahaha.

And to the post above asking for video/audio. I don't have any recording equip any more and only video cam I have is on my mobile. If you YouTube "Searls guitars" you'll see z iPhone clip of me fumbling on a rhoads v with same pickup, but recorded on the iPhone it sounds like utter rubbish so I don't plan on doing and more iPhone videos like that.

If you wait a month or two one of my mates who is pretty handy at recording is moving back into town ( currently living interstate) and he might help me out getting some sound samples/video recorded of these guitars. I might even dob him in for some build threads of his own!

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  • 2 weeks later...

JCM2000 DSL and a 1960 cab. It was turned down pretty quiet otherwise all you can hear with the mobile phone recording is static!

That's a great model, I'm not a big fan of the JCM900 which is not an all tube amp, but the return to all tube design after that was a good move and a lot of people love DSL with good reason. I like to get a 100 watt Marshall up to about half way on the master volume, they get a beautiful singing tone when they are allowed to use their power tubes :D

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I'm not a big fan of the JCM900 which is not an all tube amp

http://www.marshallamps.com/product.asp?productCode=4100&pageType=SPECS

this says it is,and the JCM 900 I played was all tube.What do you base that on?Maybe you meant something else?The Mode 4 as well as a few others were a non-tube power amp with a "single tube" preamp,and those were pretty raunchy,but the JCM900 is not one of them.

I switched to Engl when Marshall quality started going down.I will never go back.More Marshall than Marshall and more Mesa than Mesa...I play it through a 1960 vintage cab

I did not like the 900 as well as the 800...it was really more suited to punk

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