sdshirtman Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Progressing very nicely Scott. Cant wait to see it with more amber. Major bummer on the fall. Care to share how you had it hung as a warning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 Progressing very nicely Scott. Cant wait to see it with more amber. Major bummer on the fall. Care to share how you had it hung as a warning? I have a 18" steel rod that fits tightly through the tuner holes. I tie a cord onto each end and hang it from a bicycle hook in the ceiling. It has never even pretended to slip or move in the past. But......I have snaded lacquer off the rod enough times now that it slides a little easier through the tuner holes. Combine that with the larger HS angle this one has and most importantly the fact that I did not tape the cord knots to the rod (I just needed to hang it for a half hour or so. I don't know what gave, and I'm greatful it landed on it's butt but lordy it was loud. It landed right where the two top halves and the two bottom halves(titebond) and the top to bottom join(T-88) all meet. All glue joints survived nicely. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Filling the grain on the back with dyed sanding sealer. Sanded back. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Preparing to airbrush a dye burst. I taped off the claw marks with scotch tape. It is nice and thin. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I'm going to use a syringe to inject z-poxy into the gouges. The theory is the prssure will fill all the voids and the tape will hold it very close to level with the surface. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 It was getting late and I got on a roll and didn't take pics of all the steps. After about 30 minutes the z-poxy--which is nice and thin, it worked great in the syringe--was hard enough to use a razor blade to cut flush with the surface of the tape. The I pealed the tape up and sanded clean what was left. Then it had a dye touch up job and went back to the airbrush to add to the burst. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I decided to seal everything with z-poxy. I rubbed it in with my fingers...in latex gloves and treated it like it was an oil finish. Each coat got a little darker. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I am really loving how this looks. I also agree with some of the previous comments that the claw marks look great on it. Glad to see you incorporate them into the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 So yeah, another burst and several sandbacks and re-dyes of orange, amber, and bordeaux gets us here. I remember Rinker (sorry, I've completely lost his screen name and I had it only moments......aha Mad Hatter) saying he used coffee filters to apply tru-oil so I tried that as well. It had a little lint but was better in morst respects than latex covered fingers. I'm leveling lightly between coats with micromesh 1800 and wondering if when I'm done with this stage if I'll still want to shoot with nitro. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I like how it looks now. Not a fan of high gloss. Either way I'm sure it will look awesome at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I duno about ultra gloss for this one. Maby a semi gloss nitro. or hand rubbed with a fine compound to get a nice sheen. Reminds me of a Black Forest Gateaux. very rich cake. Always good when a guitar makes me think of food. means your colours are spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) I duno about ultra gloss for this one. Maby a semi gloss nitro. or hand rubbed with a fine compound to get a nice sheen. Reminds me of a Black Forest Gateaux. very rich cake. Always good when a guitar makes me think of food. means your colours are spot on You think I got them right? I like them a lot....but I find myself hunting for more red.... I'm going to have to get a look at it though a deep clear gloss, then decide whether to back off or not. Speaking of colors, Paulie; I heard this song a few times whilst building this weekend. It made me think of you....you should do a build that evokes this title. When you get out from under that order for 40 that is. I have no idea of how to do it, but what a great quilt color blood of emeralds would be. SR Edited May 29, 2012 by ScottR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 My opinion is that high gloss is always the way to go.Satin is for natural wood colored guitars and epiphones IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Yep a little more red wouldn't hurt, I'm thinking gloss but not high gloss, lookin hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 Normally I wouldn't say high gloss... but maybe "High Gloss" is right for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I am really loving how this looks. I also agree with some of the previous comments that the claw marks look great on it. Glad to see you incorporate them into the finish. Almost missed this one. The marks don't jump out at you anymore, but they are not as invisible as these pics make it seem. And that new one showed up out of nowhere! I was minding my own business cleaning up the epoxy fill, and this guy shows up at the last second. What nerve! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 I duno about ultra gloss for this one. Maby a semi gloss nitro. or hand rubbed with a fine compound to get a nice sheen. Reminds me of a Black Forest Gateaux. very rich cake. Always good when a guitar makes me think of food. means your colours are spot on You think I got them right? I like them a lot....but I find myself hunting for more red.... I'm going to have to get a look at it though a deep clear gloss, then decide whether to back off or not. Speaking of colors, Paulie; I heard this song a few times whilst building this weekend. It made me think of you....you should do a build that evokes this title. [media=] When you get out from under that order for 40 that is. I have no idea of how to do it, but what a great quilt color blood of emeralds would be. SR You just cant go wrong with gary. He was an unbelievable player. Not sure what colours would work for blood of emeralds, might be interesting to look into. that other order is almost done, so no more 15 hour days 6 days a week, cant keep that kinda crap up. I was thinking about your guitar here earlier today when I was doin some work on my harley (paintin it black with burgandy flames) I rekon you should try Rustins plasticoat & polish to living hell out of it. screw gloss, go radioactive diamond glow in the dark fookin mirror of the gods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 You just cant go wrong with gary. He was an unbelievable player. Not sure what colours would work for blood of emeralds, might be interesting to look into. that other order is almost done, so no more 15 hour days 6 days a week, cant keep that kinda crap up. I was thinking about your guitar here earlier today when I was doin some work on my harley (paintin it black with burgandy flames) I rekon you should try Rustins plasticoat & polish to living hell out of it. screw gloss, go radioactive diamond glow in the dark fookin mirror of the gods. I was thinking deep ruby red in the deep part of the figure and glowing green in shimmery highlight parts. I just don't know how to pull that off. Those colors would go muddy brown if they mixed. go radioactive diamond glow in the dark fookin mirror of the gods. That's more what I was thinking. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullsession Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Holy crap, Riffle! Get that thing done so I can play it....she's PURDY!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I've been contemplating an idea whilst applying epoxy to this body. I doubt I'll ever get to try it, but I want to float it out there. What if one had a vacuum bag system......and used it to speed up pore filling. I'm thinking that one could apply a layer of epoxy and cover that with a layer of plastic film like shrink wrap or Saran wrap. Maybe put the whole thing in another plastic bag to catch any squeeze out and then put it all in the vacuum bag and draw it down for a bit. Would not that pressure applied evenly insure the epoxy got down into all the pores the first time? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I was thinking deep ruby red in the deep part of the figure and glowing green in shimmery highlight parts. I just don't know how to pull that off. Those colors would go muddy brown if they mixed. SR Alcohol based dye into the deeper grain first, Then water based over that. So lons as neither dye is soluable in the base of the other they wont run. But reds & greens tend to reek of Christmas together. Hard to pull off. Add to that the tendancy of the top colour to tint the base & you end up with just a realy dark figure under the green. Might be worth a try on some scrap, see If it works So any progress on this one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 You need something that would just wipe off the deeper grain. Maybe if you thined some laquer way down and used it instead of alcohol. Then water based over that? And yeah it would be hard to stay out of Christmas even if you could pull it off. I've seen the colors in gemstones and it is very striking. This one is still getting epoxy rubbed in. There are still some minor voids in the claw marks to get leveled before clear coating. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Since I've filled the claw marks with Z-Poxy, a polyester resin, I'm using it to grain fill and level the surface of the entire body of the guitar. I want to have a uniform material to spray lacquer onto, and I need to level out some minor waves in the surface. Apparently the water based dye swelled the open grain more than the closed grain and I got a slightly rolling surface in my top. It also turns out my grain darkening fill on the back didn't get all the pores, so this is basically a pore filling process as well. So I wipe on Z-Poxy, let it dry and sand it level mostly and repeat. This is tricky as I don't want to cut into the dyed wood. I cut the tops off the ridges with 400 grit and then level further with 1500 micro mesh. 400 cut too fast and wants to get down to the dyed wood. 600 is better but clogs to fast. I end up up using 400 that I sanded against another sheet of 400. What I get is the cutting speed of 600 without the clogs. Those two are lightly hit with the modified 400, and the one below is after hitting with 1500. I'm getting closer to level.Then a re- with Z-Poxy and we'll do it again. It is very tempting to rushi this part....but I suppose I better take what time it takes and get it right. I did cut though a couple of times and learned I can re-dye the exposed wood and tint the Z-Poxy with alcohol based dye. You have to clean it with water pretty well afterwards so the Z-poxy doesn't try to fisheye but it tints pretty well. My top has gotten a bit redder. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 That is going to be amazing when it's done. Such a deep, rich color. I noticed the same with Z-poxy, it really has darkened up the surfaces that I've used it on, in particular on redwood burl. It made it a similarly dark, deep, and rich color. I've loved the effect so far, but I can see there might be situations where it would darken it too much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idmicheal Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 go radioactive diamond glow in the dark fookin mirror of the gods. That's more what I was thinking. SR Yes. Do that. Looking gorgeous. I can't wait to work with something quilted someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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