Jump to content

Project S9 Continued...


Recommended Posts

After a lot of epoxy I have filled all the holes and gaps in the fix. I could have tried to make this perfect but honestly it isn't worth my time. I will still always know it is there... burning it would solve that but I think it will still make a guitar with a nasty attitude. Nothing like a scar to make something angry.

P6280663.jpg

Meanwhile I had a crazy idea on the neck.

P6280673.jpg

P6280674.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet Jesus, that's determination! I would've scrapped the whole thing if it'd happened to me.

Although on second thought perhaps it opens up other possibilities - deliberately fit a contrasting piece in there, kinda like a Conklin melted top on a small scale maybe?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dunno about that one RAD... I think that's too noticeable. One thing I heard and have always liked is the whole "if you gotta do it, make it stand out!" philosophy. In this case, I'd chop off that area and graft on a piece that's a different back and top wood, then I'd do the upper horn like that too. Maybe pick a spot to do a big 2" diameter hole with it as well. So essentially you end up with a Picasso lookin' guitars that uses two different body woods and two different top woods.

The other option... if you have off-cuts of this top large enough; is to go steampunk with it. Once again chop that section off, rebuild a replacement section, and then off-set that section by about 1/2" and have copper tubing connecting it to the body. Place the knobs and stuff on that section, run wires through the tubing, etc. Granted, if you went this route, you'd have a lot more work to make everything else steampunk. But it'd be RAD!

Kind of like this, but he's got the copper pipes going out and in from the sides. I'd just connect them direct between the pieces where he has all that other stuff going on:

rusty.jpg

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dunno about that one RAD... I think that's too noticeable. One thing I heard and have always liked is the whole "if you gotta do it, make it stand out!" philosophy. In this case, I'd chop off that area and graft on a piece that's a different back and top wood, then I'd do the upper horn like that too. Maybe pick a spot to do a big 2" diameter hole with it as well. So essentially you end up with a Picasso lookin' guitars that uses two different body woods and two different top woods.

Yes that is what I usually try to do... give me some time I am still pretty pissed about this. I might surprise us all.

The other option... if you have off-cuts of this top large enough; is to go steampunk with it.

Chris

I am not steam punking it.... but I like the idea of adding a different wood altogether. I would probably melt some bocote into the top....

We will see.

Sweet Jesus, that's determination! I would've scrapped the whole thing if it'd happened to me.

Although on second thought perhaps it opens up other possibilities - deliberately fit a contrasting piece in there, kinda like a Conklin melted top on a small scale maybe?

Yeah exactly what I am thinking

It isn't going to be as bad as it looks right now.... the splice is much tighter a 1/4" down. When I do the carve we will see how bad it really looks. The first pass with the router was messy.... so on the next pass I made it much cleaner.

If it fails the eye test I will make some router templates on the thing that killed it and go with the different wood types.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Youch! I had a similar mishap (same but different) happen on a higher end Christmas gift project:

mccool2.jpg

It's for a friend of mine that is a music minister. I wanted to do a really nice custom build for him because all he has had the money for is a MIM strat. I used 60 year old cherry for the core, babinga veneer pinstripes, and flame maple on the front & back. The top has two 1/4" layers of flame with a pinstripe in between. Needless to say, a good amount of time in the glueup alone. When I put it on the CNC, I must have bumped the bridge end of the body blank after setting the center line (I still don't know how it happened). So, the center line was out a heavy 1/4" at one end, and tapered to on center at the top. When I realized it, I felt ill...I'm sure Brett knows what I'm talking about.

Anyway, it sat for over a year, and I finally dusted it off to decide what to do. I got semi carried away with the fix, but it turned out OK, and thats the goal. I inserted a tapered wedge of crotch walnut that goes down to the first babinga pinstripe, then inlaid a similar scroll design that matches the neck inlay.

mccool1.jpg

I guess what I'm saying is don't fix that "one of a kind" top with a plug that makes people ask: "what happened here". Go over the top and do something that in that area that makes people say "wow...that's pretty cool". Even if it means shelfing it for a while.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess what I'm saying is don't fix that "one of a kind" top with a plug that makes people ask: "what happened here". Go over the top and do something that in that area that makes people say "wow...that's pretty cool". Even if it means shelfing it for a while.

Yes. I think that is the right thing to do. Shelf it and move on. Sometimes I get too determined to fix things right then and now instead of giving it a few weeks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...