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Ok everyone, Ive had this build going for awhile and was keeping it under wraps but since I'm working on this my other builds are not being updated so I decided to post this one as well so you can see I'm not totally slacking on the guitar building.

This is a Tele based semi-hollow with butterfly sound holes. I'm using a mahogany body with a quilted maple top that will be dyed purple with a natural maple faux binding. I'm trying out GFS's lipstick single and double pup just because I like the looks. I have multiple purple heart fret board blanks but I think it might be too much so as of now I'm planing to do a natural maple fretboard with purple heart binding.

The design

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The lipstick tube humbucker that I hope sounds halfway decent

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Mahogany body

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After being planed nice and flat

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Sound holes very roughly cut

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I decided to rout out a line that follows the border of the body. I'm going to fill it with white inlace and it will serve as a border between the purple and natural faux binding.

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I had a few inconsistencies with the line around the top horn area but hopefully it wont stand out too much and I'm please with the rest of the cut.

Ok so now I'm tackling the fret boards and necks for this and my other builds. I just finally got my radiusing jig dialed in today which was holding up a lot of stuff so expect progress on all builds shortly. Take care guys!

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I used the GFS lipstick tubes on a mahogany explorer build. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43011&st=45#entry461262 They didn't have a good tone to my ears, kinda plastic-y. I think its the covers. Use them and see what you think. It's different woods and you may like the 'mellow' tone.

Love the cutouts, btw.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Took some scrap from the top to make a headstock plate

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sanded down to thickness

http://s171.beta.photobucket.com/user/razor279/media/DSC00552_zps50303287.jpg.html?sort=3&o=105

maple fret board

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slotting

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taper cut

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I re-did the neck and made it a little bit fancier with curly maple

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truss cavity cut

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and gluing up the fretboard

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The tele electronics setup allows for front access and no need for a rear cavity cover so I'm left with an empty canvas of a mahogany back to work with. I do believe its inlay time...

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This morning I finished the Inlay with a total of 58 pieces and 13 hours into it from the time I started drawing till the epoxy was sanded off (not counting epoxy dry time). Its currently at 150 grit. I cant wait to polish it up and really make it shine. The purple heart is brownish right now from being freshly sanded but once the oxygen has time to get to it, it should turn the vibrant purple that the wood is known for.

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Lets add a bit of color to this thing

used sanding sealer on the beveled edge to create a natural maple faux binding.

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dark blue under coat for the lows

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then sanded back

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then added the purple and blue dye

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I turned the lights off and took a photo with the flash, this is closer to the actual color

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sorry this is a little blurry

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all dried up

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and a nice clean edge.

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I'm pretty happy with this considering it was my first stain/burst attempt.

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I need some help guys. I had this same issue with the anchor guitar. I only have the ability to print my logo in black but I'm afraid it will be very hard to see on the dark violet headstock. I think if I could get it done in white it would look perfect but I cannot find anyone with the capability to print in white ink. Do any of you know a place I could send a file and have them print a decal or a transfer image thin enough to be under the clear coat? Any ideas at all would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a few pics from this morning:

Beveling the edges of the sound holes to make them stand out better

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Also added the faux binding bevel to the headstock

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I have decided to skip the pick guard because it would be a crime to cover up any part of this top wood. I also plan on recessing the control plate so it sits flush with the body.

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Edited by Robbinst
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There are now digital printers out there with the capability to print white ink.....but they are large machines and small runs are going to cost you a ton. Same problem with screen printers and flexo and the majority of print suppliers out there.

Your best bet is to find a small sign shop like a FastSigns or Same Day Signs (these are franchises) and see if they have a Gerber Edge. This is a small printer that thermally transfers an image from a file using colored foils and white is available. They could print your logo on .002" thick clear adhesive backed vinyl. Not as easy to clear over as a water slide but possible.

But you have definitely got some artistic chops; hand paint that sucker on there. Or cut a stencil and airbrush it on. That's your best bet IMO.

SR

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There are now digital printers out there with the capability to print white ink.....but they are large machines and small runs are going to cost you a ton. Same problem with screen printers and flexo and the majority of print suppliers out there.

Your best bet is to find a small sign shop like a FastSigns or Same Day Signs (these are franchises) and see if they have a Gerber Edge. This is a small printer that thermally transfers an image from a file using colored foils and white is available. They could print your logo on .002" thick clear adhesive backed vinyl. Not as easy to clear over as a water slide but possible.

But you have definitely got some artistic chops; hand paint that sucker on there. Or cut a stencil and airbrush it on. That's your best bet IMO.

SR

Coming along nicely.

Scott was thinking the same as me. There are also direct to garment digital printers that also use opaque white inks. You'll find them at the same places Scott mentioned and you might be able to bring them a sheet of transfer paper to print white ink on. At the same time I have to agree with banana. Why not do inlay. Your build certainly seems worthy of it.

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Beautiful work. I'm admiring the sharp edge of the faux binding. Could you explain how you got it so sharp? Is it because the sanding sealer stops the dye getting to the timber (so the trick is in how well you put the sanding sealer on)? Or from accurate masking when you placed the dye? Scraping back any dye leakage? Combination? Or maybe trade secret?

Thanks in advance.

and a nice clean edge.

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