KnightroExpress Posted December 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 I usually radius and fret after carving as well, but this was a pre-radiused board so that went out the window. Thanks bud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 I usually radius and fret pre-carve to take advantage of the flat back, and then level crown and dress them after the carve. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 There's no right way, just ones that suit one's own preference or overall method. The trick with sanding on the neck is to know that it won't move after carving, sending out that nicely flattened and radius neck. Internal tensions released from poorly-dried wood, or simply carving when the weather is the wrong side of "good" can send it off. Wood will do what it wants, and you can't stop it doing so. Knowing that your stock has been well-selected, dried in no huge hurry and stored properly makes all the difference if you go that route. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Refining the V's neck and getting frets installed: It's the week before finals/critiques, so I've been at the studios on campus more than my shop (art student probs). However! I did knock out a new design during my random break times. I was feeling inspired by Mary Kaye Teles and decided to give it a spin: After this week, I'll be on Christmas break... it'll be nice to get some solid, uninterrupted shop time. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Really nice! I love it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Holy crap, where in the world did you find that multi scale tele bridge in your cad drawing?!? Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdogg Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Looks like a flat plate with holes drilled / tapped for those string saver saddles. just be sure you use something hard enough like SS or plated brass /steel... Aluminum is just a hair to soft and gouges from the height screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Either that or use brass screws....? I love the simplicity of the baseplate. It's totally in keeping with the pared-back economy of a Tele with a touch of modern starkness to it. You've got a great eye for these things Andrew. Always a pleasure seeing you developing new ideas. I genuinely think that if you wanted to take a step into the marketplace, your designs would hold their own. They really would. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Me and Andrew talked it over quite a bit about tapping the aluminum for the screws. I really think that aluminum should be fine for this, these screws really don't require any sort of torque, hand tight should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Although brass screws wouldn't be a bad idea since stainless may allow you to put more force on them than the brass will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdogg Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 31 minutes ago, 2.5itim said: Although brass screws wouldn't be a bad idea since stainless may allow you to put more force on them than the brass will. I was referring to the height adjustment grub screws (2 per saddle) There is significant downward pressure here exerted by the string tension. the downward pressure is supported by the bottom of these 2 grub screws. it's just not enough area and the screws dig into aluminum. Trust me... you want something just a hair harder.... or maybe a harder alloy of aluminum would be okay.... I used aluminum square bar out of the cutoff bin at the local metal supermarkets and it was just a hair too soft... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Oh I see I thought you were talking about the screw that hold the saddles in the correct place for intonating. I just did a little test here at work and tapped a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum with 1/4" 20 tap and it took 40 ft/lbs before pulling the threads so I think he should be fine in that department. As for the grub screws I am thinking you may have used a really low grade piece of aluminum as I've had bridges before that are 6061-t6 with no ill effects. I'm about to have 3 going on my guitars within the next week and I have 10 more I'm getting ready to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Being mindful of the type of set screw helps; a round tip as opposed to cone should protect the plate. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thanks everyone, you're all too kind! I'll be able to figure out the set-screw thing as soon as I have the saddles in hand. I've got a few non-marring options in mind, just need to measure and pick the correct one. Back to work! Glued in the V's neck and gave it a light heel carve: Spent an afternoon doing some routing on this burly beast: http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz75/adknight88/Voyager MS8/Padauk-Wenge MS8/IMG_20161215_141335_zpssugsudtj.jpg And finally, applied finish on the chambered 6 string: This'll have to hang out and cure for a few days, so I'm hoping to get it all done and ready to play by the end of next week. Thanks for checking out this (excessively lengthy) post! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 It's almost a real guitar! Level/crown/polish, electronics, and final setup tomorrow: ....and better pictures too, I suppose 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 I'm getting into using only 3 bolts myself. Holds just fine and really opens up possibilities to make a comfortable, ergonomic, bolt-on heel. Awesome work as always man, Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyjerk Posted December 21, 2016 Report Share Posted December 21, 2016 Thats a seriously classy looking guitar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post KnightroExpress Posted December 22, 2016 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Thanks Chris (x2!) The first build out of my new shop is done! Better pics and a demo video soon. Specs Body: Chambered swamp ash w/walnut top Neck: 7pc maple/rosewood laminate Fretboard: Indian rosewood, Jescar 58118SS fretwire Hardware: Hipshot hardtail and staggered open gear tuners Pickups: DiMarzio Air Norton/Air Zone 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Nicely done as usual Andrew. That wood really seems to like Odie's Oil. Does that stuff build up any film at all or does it all soak in and wipe off? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Tuner knobs are an interesting choice. Hipshot seem to sneak all these product updates out without much fanfare. I notice that they've got heaps of tuner button options on their website now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 @ScottR- Thanks Scott! The Odie's Oil doesn't really build at all, but they do offer an accompanying wax blend that is supposed to do that. I just haven't tried it yet. Maybe on the big red 8.... @curtisa- I actually really like these tuner buttons! Er...shafts, I guess. They have a very smooth feel in hand, I'll probably make them my standard choice for non-vintage style builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Ok, last batch of progress pics for this year! Pore filling the surf green Pulsar: A round of sealer and pearl purple for this Voyager 7: And finally, got the carve started on the wenge/padauk multiscale 8: I'd like to thank everyone here at PG for another year of excellent community and friendship, I'm happy to stick around for many more! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 There are some jaw-droppingly beautiful builds going on here! Rarely have I seen such a large amount of skill exhibited in such a small space!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Andrew, your presence and shared contributions are a pleasure just as much as is your friendship. Not that many builders get to the clear standard of build and design without "withdrawing" and keeping their work as some sort of trade secret, and even fewer are as open and approachable. I on the other hand, am a curmudgeonly arsehole in comparison. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 11 hours ago, KnightroExpress said: I almost forgot to mention.....it's impossible to get finishes like that looking as good as that one does if one doesn't spend time concentrating on dialling in the contours perfectly. That's almost as good as what you might expect from a render....seriously Andrew....stop embarrassing us! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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