2.5itim Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Prostheta, that is a great idea thank you for that! I will get to work on making a angled box like that and see how it works out today. 34 minutes ago, 10pizza said: nice Project and great looking wood! Curious how that neck is going to look when finished! Thank you! Hopefully I won't let you down. The back of the necks will be ibanez wizard ish shaped, tele headstock shape scarfed at 12 degrees and 4x2 tuners instead of the usual 6x0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Sure. Let's have a look at what you come up with first! This is a great tool that I always call up on my phone when working:http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm A 13° angle over 300mm would require a rise (or fall) of 69,3mm. Calculating and marking out my angles using larger distances over known right angles makes your work far more accurate. It's shockingly simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: Sure. Let's have a look at what you come up with first! This is a great tool that I always call up on my phone when working:http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/calrtri.htm A 13° angle over 300mm would require a rise (or fall) of 69,3mm. Calculating and marking out my angles using larger distances over known right angles makes your work far more accurate. It's shockingly simple! Well I didn't see that you had replied until I finished it haha. But anyways here's what I came up with, length of 20.25", height of 4.25, gave me a angle of 11.9 degrees. When I check it with my protractor it's right at 12 degrees. Thank you you so much for that, this should work out perfectly!! photobucket is down for maintnance right now but when it comes back up I will post a pic of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Great work! Well, you can just attach photos into your posts you know? Just down there where it says, "Drag images/files here to attach, or choose files... Choose Files" and you can add them inline to your posts. Photobucket causes all kinds of problems further down the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 3 hours ago, Prostheta said: 23 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Great work! Well, you can just attach photos into your posts you know? Just down there where it says, "Drag images/files here to attach, or choose files... Choose Files" and you can add them inline to your posts. Photobucket causes all kinds of problems further down the line. Wow I didn't know that! This is by far the best forum format I've ever been on. Well here it is! I think it should do its job perfectly! I seem to have miss placed my router over the years so I'll need to go buy another one before proceeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Looks like a great size too. I'll have to get off my arse and build another one myself now. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thanks for the idea man, it will help out tremendously! i gave it another go on the next neck with the Japanese saw and this one came out much better than the last. Just a little work with the router jig and it should be great! Here's some dry fit photos after sawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) Spoke to soon, just did my 3rd one and it looks terrible, maybe even worse than my first lol. Good news is I gave myself 2 inches extra length at the heel end so I should be able to fix my mistake. Edited January 29, 2016 by 2.5itim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 @Prostheta it worked perfectly, thank you so much!! You saved me many of hours block sanding and it still wouldn't have been good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Wow, you don't hang around! Time to clean up all of that man glitter off the floor..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I have been able to get a bit done this week, I finished the neck scarf joints and got them glued up. I can't really go any farther with them until I order my truss rods. I have also after much contemplation decided to change my body plans, I got the back walnut piece and the middle piece of hackberry glued up, after about a week of leaving my top sitting sure enough it freaking warped again. So what I decided to do was ditch putting the top on and just making a super thin carved top tele, I think that I would still be super happy with this. The body now will be 1-1/4" thick and I'll post up a pic of what I'd like to achieve with the carve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Did my very first top carve today!! I have to say I'm pretty pleased, all I had was a chisel so I got it about where I wanted and then sanded it the rest of the way. The lighting isn't very good in here so I drew lines around the edges so y'all could see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 That's coming along nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 nice! great idea on the rig, nice to see it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Thanks guys I appreciate it! i was able to get my pickup cavities routed today and my bridge should be here in 2 days! ill be going with a Hipshot fixed bridge. i was originally planning on going with a pickup toggle switch on the upper horn but since I am not putting the walnut top on this guitar like I had planned I have no way to get a wiring passage up there, someone on here had mentioned cutting the pickup cavities and then angle a drill bit thru there but I won't be able to get enough angle without drilling into the top or back. The only other way I see possible is to drill a hole thru the side of the guitar, thru the toggle cavity and into the pickup cavity, then turn a little piece of walnut on the lathe and glue it into the hole on the side of the guitar. I just don't know how I feel about this and don't know if I'd be able to make it unnoticeable. What do y'all think? I am open to suggestions if yall know any other way. Anyways, here's a pick of the pickup cavities. Thanks for looking!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 What about coming from the other direction - drill from the toggle switch cavity to the pickup cavity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 nice figure. If you'd put the walnut top on you would have routed a wire channel in the body I assume? Not sure where you're strap button is going to be. Maybe you could drill through the upper horn to the pickup cavity from the spot where you're strapbutton is going to be. it would need a longer piece of wood to be glued back in, but then you can cover it up with the button. it has to go through the switch cavity as well ofcourse... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 1 hour ago, 10pizza said: Not sure where you're strap button is going to be. Maybe you could drill through the upper horn to the pickup cavity from the spot where you're strapbutton is going to be. it would need a longer piece of wood to be glued back in, but then you can cover it up with the button. Ooh great thinking. That might just work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 3 hours ago, 10pizza said: nice figure. If you'd put the walnut top on you would have routed a wire channel in the body I assume? Not sure where you're strap button is going to be. Maybe you could drill through the upper horn to the pickup cavity from the spot where you're strapbutton is going to be. it would need a longer piece of wood to be glued back in, but then you can cover it up with the button. it has to go through the switch cavity as well ofcourse... Yeah originally I had planned on routing out all my wiring passages on the body and then putting the top walnut piece on. That is a great idea about trying to go from the strap button location to the toggle cavity and then to the pickup cavity, I'll keep this idea on the back burner. I think that I figured out the way I'm gonna go with it last night after having some time to clear my head with a few beers. The whole reason I wouldn't be able to drill straight from the pickup cavity to the toggle cavity was because I have been planning on doing just a 1-1/2" circle for that cavity, that would put them to far apart from each other, so I changed my toggle cavity design to cover most of the upper horn and then taper down towards the back following the edge of the belly carve. This puts the very edge of the toggle cavity right above the pickup cavity so I'd be able to straight shot a drill between the 2. Im at work right now but I'll post pics of what I mean tonight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 So here's what I'm thinking about with the toggle cavity. Where it goes into a sharp point on the bottom right is about 1/2 an inch above and to the left (towards the neck) from the pickup cavity so I should be able to drill that thru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I got my toggle cavity and vol/tone cavity routed tonight. Haven't had a chance to try and drill thru, I might do that tomorrow. Fingers crossed that it works!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 looks good, nice solution this way and less drilling! how did you route the cavity cover recess? did you create a template for these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 3 hours ago, 10pizza said: looks good, nice solution this way and less drilling! how did you route the cavity cover recess? did you create a template for these? Thanks man! I did, I actually had to make 3 templates for each cavity. 1 for the cavity itself and 2 for the recess, I only had a 1" long router bit so I made 2 templates and stacked them on top of each other. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 It looks to me that you should be able to drill a straight shot to the pups from your jack hole without having to worry about any angles. There's no reason not to have a separate passage for each pickup's wires either. I prefer it because it's much easier to thread them through and tell them apart in the tight quarters of the control cavity. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 1 hour ago, ScottR said: It looks to me that you should be able to drill a straight shot to the pups from your jack hole without having to worry about any angles. There's no reason not to have a separate passage for each pickup's wires either. I prefer it because it's much easier to thread them through and tell them apart in the tight quarters of the control cavity. SR My initial plan for the drilling is to drill a straight shot from the input jack hole into the bridge pickup cavity and then drill a hole from the treble side of the neck pocket thru the neck pickup cavity and into the bridge pickup cavity but the toggle switch wiring is where I'm getting screwed up. Are you saying I should drill thru the input jack hole all the way thru both pickup cavities and into the toggle cavity all in one shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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