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gripper

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Everything posted by gripper

  1. While showing off the wiring in my Tele-12 to a budding young builder, she asked why I don't run a ground to the trussrod. After a little-too-long thoughtful pause, I decided not to lie and tell her I didn't know of any reason to or not to. Got to tell her something! Short blondes ROCK!
  2. I just was looking for a similar noise with my active crossover. Lifted grounds, star-grounded, moved filter and bypass caps, etc. 120 cycle hum persisted but just on the high-pass. Capacitive filtering just killed the highs that I love so much. Ended up with a 1:1 isolation transformer on that output only. Now it is dead quiet but I have to find a good place to mount it. I know I didn't find the problem but I got rid of it and that's all I care about. By the way, the transformer is from (blush) Radio Shack. Made for car audio, I think. Bi-amping ROCKS!
  3. I'm with Nick. The middle pup on most guitars really cramps my style (if you can call it that). A lot of the guys I play with have three pups on their axes and have no trouble but not me. The only exception I can think of is my uncle's Strat. He moved his middle pup to damn-near the bridge pup and that gives me the room I want to "go diggin' for worms". Digging ROCKS!
  4. I have really enjoyed the whole Fretboard Logic series. It is a really differant logic and it helps with everything. The repititions are real chop-builders. FL ROCKS!
  5. Max, I believe that treatment of the issue (I read it too, somewhere) assumes you were going to use a microphone cable. It is concievable that the amp could burn up the center conductor and open the speaker circuit. May as well believe it and stay away from mic cables when hooking up your cabs. I use a type of round cable called 14-2SJO. The J is supposed to stand for Junior and it is very small for the given conductor size(14 ga.). A little hard to find and kinda pricey. Lovecraft has the right idea. Damn! Almost forgot again!
  6. Two questions. Are you then going to use a locking nut? What keeps your tuning slides from tipping up and killing the downpressure on your bridge?
  7. Warmoth bass stiffening rods are steel and they are HEAVY! I didn't use any stiffeners on mine. For what THAT is worth. Almost forgot!
  8. Probe the depth of the old holes with a nail or toothpick and drill 3/8" holes this deep but NO depper. Squirt some wood glue in the holes and rub some on 3/8" hardwood dowels slightly longer than the drilled depth. Force them all the way in and let set two days. Carve the ends flush with a VERY sharp flat wood chisel. Redrill new holes with the neck pushed over where you want it and assemble in reverse order. I guess. Guesses ROCK!
  9. Dry coffee grounds or grapefruit peels. Just depends on what you prefer as your new "odour du joir". Or sumpthin like dat. Coffe ROCKS!
  10. As far as pickups for 12-strings, I chose a rail SD for the bridge and a Tele neck position from Fender. Mini Grovers worked well for me. I sprung for the Gotoh fully adjustable bridge made for 12-strings. The string tree gave me the most trouble because the screws on a standard tree wouldn't hold that much pressure. Next was the bridge pickup cover that had to be made from scratch. It was well worth the effort. If I had it to do over I would probly use a more standard bridge and reverse the chorus strings like some Ricks did.
  11. The only "mods" I have done to BV Crates is some tone/reverb section tube swaps (12AT7s and 12AU7s) and adding a bunch of blue leds to the chassis. What do you want it to sound like when you are done? I swapped the tubes to get rid of some of the METAL-type gain and betters clean channel. Crate BVs ROCK!
  12. No, you want to use the smaller cap in any case. The pot does not produce the effect on tone; the cap does.
  13. You can mix values as long as all volume pots are the same. Tones can be whatever you want but you need at LEAST 100k to get the highs through when the pot is all the way up. The value of the pot has no effect on the lows as any pot can be turned to near zero ohms. The capacitor in the tone circuit determines amount of high-cut. 100k sounds a bit too low to me. Tone ROCKS!
  14. Impedence select switch, effect loop jack, main speaker jack, footpedal jack and standby switch all are culprits on those Crates. Turn volume way up on channel 2 and listen for the background hum. If not there, shut off and clean the imp. switch. SLM will be happy to supply you with a tech manual.
  15. Look at the Carvin models Belair(tube) SC212E(cheap) SX300C(lots of knobs) The Belair is my preference but you need to look at the features yourself. Carvin ROCKS!
  16. Try McMaster part number 92470A101. $3.68/100. They are panhead/phillips/stainless. That small of a screw should hide the slight flattened portion of the panhead.
  17. You can do without the drum sander, planer, jigsaw and drill press while you are starting out. The local highschool might have these for you to use for now. Clamps and straight edges and a really large supply of sandpaper are a must! Buy a few quality rasps in differant sizes. I like to make a complete mock-up out of blue construction styrofoam first. You can see what clamping, routing and access problems you are going to have. Try your contours and belly reliefs out on the styrofoam before you make them in wood. Just my 8 cents worth. Basses ROCK!
  18. McMaster-Carr supply in Franklin Park, IL. You should see their warehouses! It is McM as far as the eye can see!
  19. Genz-Benz, Carvin and Crate. Try before you buy. All three have great dynamics but the Crate may be a little too sharp for you and the Carvin a bit tame. Genz-Benz ROCKS!
  20. If that WAS a 100 meter roll wouldn't it be $.05 per foot?
  21. I vote for drill and dowel. Don't use too much glue and tap them suckers all the way in. Excess glue or a void in the repair would be bad news. Try to find poplar or oak dowels in a small (3/16") diameter. Just my 7 cents worth. Inflation, you know. Poplar rocks!
  22. I did some reccomended mods to a Epiphone Valve Junior and the results were dramatic. It will now quietly (no humm) drive my Marshall 4/12 cab nuts with a ART preamp in front of it. $142.00 and about $20.00 in parts. Not a bad deal for 15 screaming watts. Valve Jrs ROCK!
  23. It's probably just me but I have trouble finishing the endgrain on white oak. Acts a lot like wenge. Red oak splinters easy and tends to "burn" when I use a router and it is a little bland. Water oak is beautiful and fairly light when it is COMPLETELY dried. The smell is AWFUL, however. It looks a lot like poplar. I would not look forward to routing chambers in any oak to make the guitar lighter but, again, that is just me. I think you should use what you got. Colombus took a chance! ROCK ON!
  24. Remembered this thread while drinking wine with the Bridgestone boys and girls. The little felt "pop screen" on the end of the electret capsule was tight against the glass and prevented any ambient sounds from getting to the amp. Also, the capsule shown in the picture is a three wire capsule as opposed to the more common two-wire shown in the diagram. The difference is shielded cable used for sound output and a seperate DC+ lead. A two wire can be switched to shielded and it is recommended to eliminate hum. Hum does NOT ROCK!
  25. Thanks for the input, folks! Marksound, you may have put that link to custom mic stands in as a joke but you totally solved my problem! I showed that page to my uncle and he said he would make those nice tapered-end Vee-bases and paint them if I bought the riser tubes and clutches. I think those Vee-stands look GREAT but I will have to get longer mini-booms for the accoustic guitar mics. Not a problem at all! I can get Atlas HD risers for $19.00 each whereas the HD stand w/boom was $65.00 each! Everyone's help ROCKS!
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