mistermikev

i am not seeing your images... so I'd like my money back please!

what kind of kit? obviously if it's a typical strat/tele you could just get a pickguard w/o the neck hole. If you are going for the 'single pickup look', well then that might require a bit more work. as mentioned by 10pizza you could add a top... or you could just do a pickguard/cover for that pickup hole. It'd be best to fill it in with wood but you COULD simply put a piece of cardboard in there and then fill it the rest of the way with epoxy. You could then do a veneer over that. the possibilities are endless!

noice. I was thinking it would be an interesting challenge to 'uncover' those from the other side... and then what would she be doing back there? perhaps two crossed fingers? so many questions (hehe). Love the idea of not being able to see because obscured by hair too!

"how in the world is he going to find those hands on the back side" - no answer req... just what I'm wondering about looking at it.

looking good.

noice. makes me want to build a jazzmaster.

it's an interesting contrast in texture. that guitar just has so many interesting things going on.

before I even read your comment I thought "well that's nice... I wonder if he means to carve it". I vote carve. It's a nice set of lines.

haha, i see what you did there 'less abrasive'. u clever devil. i use a cheap walmart plastic storage 'drawer' thingy that i have labeled with grit ranges. when I'm done with a piece it goes into the proper drawer. nothing revolutionary but it works for me.

glad to hear on the 'not making it thinner'. Seems to me all wood sounds different to some degree... but there are so many things you can do with pickups, pots, tone controls etc. I typically plan on doing some sort of tweaking after the fact. Perhaps that's why my builds take me so loooong! haha!

that nut against those frets... wow. looks sharp.

having read a bit of your thread over there... I would vote go all mahog. You can always build another mahog w maple cap. Personally, I'd feel better making full use of the wood I have ass opposed to making the wood fit the design. Just be a shame to waste wood. I'm guessing all mahog would sound different - but I doubt it would be so different that it'd be off-putting. I'm sorry I don't have enough of a definitive answer afa if all mahog lps were any thinner... couldn't even come close to competing with the knowledge of freddy g and such! that said, my guess is gibson would have gone with 10/4 mahog because starting with 8/4 it would seem like it would end up looking way too thin... mill it flat and end up with 1 7/8... put a carve in and it'd be 1 1/4 at the edge? I'm guessing 9/4 is pretty rare so... 2 + 2 = 79.

all good info to know and I appreciate the insight. I 'spose for someone who's got the machine it wouldn't make all that much sense then. For me... I don't even have a slot blade at present and I understand with the saw stop none of the easily available one's will run in that saw, so nothing I'm gung ho for. Before I got this saw I was thinking about how I might build a multiscale jig for manual slotting and then I got the saw and saw this and thought - "well that might be a solid idea". Really just wanted to share for reference later and for anyone who might be interested in similar. again - I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

well for me... I'm table saw rich and cnc poor... but I know a guy who could do one up for me. further, there are not a lot of options for multiscale slotting templates that aren't uber-expensive so I would think if someone were to make these they'd be comparatively inexpensive and as such: popular among folks who don't have cnc... maybe. in addition (and please comment on this) as I understand it, slotting a board on cnc is a lot of work... it requires delicate bits that break... and requires different programming for each radius, no? It can certainly be done... but might not be "worth it" to some if you consider how fast one could achieve this on a table saw. perhaps not... i dunno, pure speculation... you tell me.

yeah, no... I wouldn't say drilling this by hand would be a good solution. I was more thinking that as a set of holes you could cnc it pretty easy or get someone to cnc it for you. anything done by hand is going to have "by hand" accuracy which really is dependent on the hands at that point!! pretty sure my hands are not up to that task. afa alignment of the holes... they are just parallel to each other. again if the angle is a target well that's one thing... but if you figure you are going to get 'close' to angle x and however off that is on fret 1 it will be that amount of off all the way down. ahh... the folly of my thinking... the distance between the two stud points is going to change.

thanks for response. well... as I understand, it COULD be that way... or not. If you have a target scale length for high e and low e. Would certainly make setting your intonation line easier but if you didn't care you could have a 25.6789 scale on the high e and 26.3223323 on the low e... you'd just have to divide up the difference across the span. ie If you just laid out say 27.75 on this side and 23.75 on this side... and that spanned 4" and your string span was 2" actual... and you centered your fretboard - then your rise/run would mean your high e was 24.75 and your low e was 26.75 because your scale length would change at a rate of 1" per 1". even then your adgb strings are going to have some wonky scale length between those two numbers... so does it really matter? yes/no, maybe so. just depends what your goal is. the thing I like about this jig... is it is very simple. just points. assuming you drill the holes with no slop... it should be as accurate as the points.

so saw this... thought it was brilliantly simple. Just thought I'd share. If you have a variation - I'd love to see it. https://i.imgur.com/er6V3qX.jpg?1 jig

Well, changing a blade yes, reinstalling the sm blade shouldn't make much of a difference. that said... the typical steel inserts I recall from industrial saws in the cab industry had a good 3/32 of gap on either side of the blade... if you did finished cuts on those you would get some tearout esp on hardwood... albiet small. then again... it can always be better.

well sir I'll have you know I am an EXCEPTIONALLY DUM DUMMY (I EVEN SPELL DUM WRONG)! I'm in a whole nutha class of dummies. (BTW, why isn't it dumbies, or IS it?) well, the accuracy of the slot does indeed prevent more tearout... but I have to think that the difference between cutting one and getting it cut from the factory would be minimal at best. Not sure I am allowed to use a professional saw... but given it will be just home use I'm hoping no one will notice!!

i appreciate the answer!

thanks again for all the replies... the very experienced community over at lumberjocks confirmed my thoughts. There was a thread about a new insert for dado setup... and the procedure was as expected. They had the added insight of clamping a 2x4 on top of the insert and then raise the blade into both to ensure no movement. anywho, mystery solved.

naw... there's no slot there... and on the new one's there is no slot... so 2+ 2 = 15... I just cut a slot. yeah, I've seen folks make their own like that... just raise the blade... but on a new one - you'd think. then again cutting yourself will give you a more accurate slot.

ah... not in the manual... looked. I always read the manual before I do much. that's how I learned there was a secret compartment when you extend the table and also how I learned how to open it from the compressed position to upright. but yeah, I freq don't read the manual until I have a question.

right... wouldn't want to shatter it or have a crazy kickback. would rather just not do it because all I have is brand new blades. thanks for the input.