mistermikev

if feel drunk. also, like the labor intense approach to getting it right: good for you. hope you are taking care of yourself (better than I am anyway!)

answer is: "mike v"? fortunately for you you are in the 'golden age' of cheap guitars. $400 can get you something great. I would advise that you consider buying off of craigslist as if you end up selling it later you'll recoup more of your money. perhaps a used epiphone or fender. If buying new... the fender vintage modern series holds value well and is under $400. good luck.

best bet is to use a graphic editor... I like photoshop. take a straight on pic of one and use fret2dfind to put down a reference fretboard then just scale it up until it matches the fretboard. then use the pen tool to trace it. other than that... you'd have to buy one afa I know.

perhaps didn't notice this before... but love the creativity here. the little tentacle loops as fret markers. brilliant.

new design looks great. is that olive or tamo ash? on my 'someday' list for sure. beauty against the turquoise. afa strap button... as mentioned it's better to be closer to the 12... but it also makes more/less difference depending on how heavy your headstock is. lighter tuners and a smaller headstock make a big difference. in your case the hollow cutout in the onk might work to your benefit. then again you've got a fair amount of body real estate so it may not matter. I have a hamer steve stevens that has very small horns and the strap is not far fwd... but 1.75" of mahog and a floyd rose trem ensure zero neck dive! afa straight slot... I built a simple little jig for doing this. I just used premium pre-cut stock from home depot since it tends to be straight... and built a little platform with two legs. I used shims between the platform to keep the fretboard level to the platform. I clamp the neck to it then just a 1/8" straight bit that follows the edge like a template. probably other/better ways but it was easy and worked great for me.

the trick with bass strings is they have wrapping that needs to be beyond the nut. Sometimes the string even gets thinner right there and/or at the bridge. I've got a 32" scale p bass and certains string brands have to be avoided as the wrap ends up too long, and is right at the nut. Just thought I'd mention because it is not something I considered when building a short scale. They do make short scale strings... fyi. afa grounding... idk if that's going to work great as threads may not make great contact. esp if you screw them in more than 1 time. I spose you could always drip some conductive paint down in there if that happens. that said... can't help but wonder what ya got against the ole 'drill at an angle to meet the control cavity and use a wire' method? Anywho, I could measure on my shortscale if you like but generally 32 1/8" on the low e and 29 15/16" on the high e.

that body sounds amazing... almost like it has chorus, reverb and delay coming right out of it (hehe). seriously that is a lovely sounding guitar, some lovely playing, and an amazing job recording it. also, updating this thread made me look at that bass again and for that I thank you. osmo polyx - must do!

that's a noice looking sg there. yew'l have a gotm for sure (see what I did there?) seriously tho... I bet that would look really nice, sort of in the korina vein, but more prettier. (prettier is a word)

right on. cool stuff for sure.

Cool. gonna have to check that out. how is it attached?

I have a saying "I got it all wired up... now I just have to get it working"! story of my life. glad you got it working.

I love this little detail here. I actually am doing something very similar on my current build - just a chrome waterslide in the sm spot. Has the specs of the neck right there. you "went with metal" do you mean actual metal or chrome vinyl? it looks great. color contrast on the top is stunning. amazing work.

typical strat neck is 2 3/16 so 56mm. so I'm guessing he means the pocket is too wide. I'm sure someone could custom make you a neck for less than $600! hehe you probably aren't going to find any commercial sites that will offer anything that wide other than (if you got lucky) maybe guitar fetish. I would think your best bet is to buy a std strat neck and put veneer on the sidewalls to close the gap. note that the side gaps shouldn't really cause any issue other than cosmetic assuming you have it bolted tight.

tru dat. can make short work of a nice bit. probably not a bad idea to have a metal detector handy. this has never happened to me, just going off of a post I saw on facebook and wondering if I'm just a worry wart (I am, but perhaps not for THIS reason!). thanks for the reply. thank you for chiming in!

wow, coming along very nicely. love the rings.

well, dead man's switch: if you accidentally let go of it (on switch) while balls deep in a route I think you'll reconsider whether or not it can be unsafe! IMO anything has some potential but... fighting the urge to completely agree that hand held is more safe because that's really my underlying belief. welp, the closest thing I have to a router table is my carve top binding jig. It makes me a bit uncomfy sometimes because there is nothing to stop one from pulling their hand right into it. that said - I'm extra careful using it. I have used a router table in a professional setting but it was always with a feather board and guard for doing cove moulding and similar. Like anything else they can be safe... but my concerns with them would center more around A) the grip you have on the wood vs the grip on a router and B ) an exposed blade and slipping esp if the bit grabs the piece. For those reasons I am not comfy using a table but I know anything can be safe/unsafe depending on what yer doing and how yer doing it. Either scenario - table or hand held... going from wood to steel - seems to me things are going to change so fast you aren't going to have time to react before any potential damage is done - dead man's switch or not. That said I'm always totally prepared to be completely wrong. I have never routed thru anything with metal in it so have zero experience.

right on. while lots of folks swear by a router table... for me, I just don't care for them. There are some cases where admittedly they can be more consistent/better in some ways... but I am just more comfortable with holding the router as opposed to the workpiece. safer - I don't think I'd go so far as to say one is overall safer than the other, but in certain scenarios - def. for the record... I'm not as concerned about nail holes as nails. very much appreciate your input AD. Hope you are feeling better too (I lurk).

so was bull spitting with some folks on facebook about a blank of old wood this guy was going to use as a neck blank. he was showing pics of tons of holes in it and how he had pulled out vintage cast nails - some 3" long. setting aside the fact that this neck blank potentially has voids in it... would you feel comfy running a router through it? I have done some dangerous things with a router... not proud - had some scary close calls. Not saying I'm mr safety... I am far from it. This however strikes me as insanity - but I could be wrong. I know folks run routers on metal all the time. going from low density to high density wood with a router can choke it, slowing it down, and basically turning the blade into a baseball bat hitting that wood and throwing the work piece. As woodworkers we encounter this all the time with figured wood and tearout. transitioning from wood to metal unexpectedly, with a router, to me seems like a great way to add dodging lethal projectiles to your woodworking activities. I have never actually done it, but I have accidentally bumped a piece of aluminum with my router bit on my plane jig... just barely touched it... and it def got my attention. ever happen to you? would you run a router through a piece you pulled nails out of?

just one suggestion - I don't thin anyone mentioned (if so - sorry)... might want to use a couple screws or nails or what not to keep the slip sliding to a min while you glue up. also on that poplar... usually the edges are tore up or rounded from the store... might want to trim them with a straight edge b4 glue up to get a clean joint. also... if it were me... I'd try to grain match them as much as possible and then do a frontside/backside cut of each set of two to get a perfect seam. just some thoughts.

wow some impressive and ambitious stuff for someone with apparently little background - good for you. comeing along nicely. I can see everything fine so... "It's good"!

not to correct but most pedal analog chorus is not true stereo. ce2 was just mono and pretty sure (depending on version) the cs9 is too. the dod versions that use the mn3007 chip were sold as stereo chrous but really just have a dry out as with most pedal chrous. I thought that in the priceton and peavey classic chorus amps they were actually flipping the phase of the chorus and getting true stereo chorus but I could be wrong on that. Either way... I have tried a lot of chorus both digital and analog... from sad512 based eh memory man to dod performer 512 based, dod performer mn3007 based, ce2, dimension c, ce2b, cs9, eh small clone, ada mp1/2, mxr micro... etc. analog chorus is a whole nutha animal in that it's dirty(beautiful) and lots of warble... the princeton/peavey of that era is very clean and while I've not seen the circuit - I'd be really surprised if it wasn't digital. all probably more than anybody cares about!

something that may or may not help... if you take a pot and take a variable resistor (ie trim pot). if you start with say a 500k pot... and you wire in a variable resistor across lugs 1/3... you can change the resistance of that pot. so if you take a 500k pot for instance, and put a 6k resistor in parallel with it... you effectively convert it to a 6k pot. So with a trimmer pot in parallel... you could adjust the trim to zero in on the optimal value. might come in handy. So, in theory, if you had a ganged pot... you could effectively get different resistances on either. You can alter the curve of resistance as well by placing the resistor between lugs 1/2 and 2/3 vs 1/3.

I dunno... yes/no/maybe? I know this is a common issue with bass blends. a pot reaches it's max/min at either end of the rotation... not the middle. so typical blends tend to not give you 100% one or the other at either end. In the middle either pickup will be at something a little less than full vol but evenly mixed because you are (in thoery) doubling the signal. In reality it's a lot more difficult to get worked out perfect. either you don't have a good blend, or you don't get either pickup isolated. But I'm guessing that this would be fine for 90% of people so I probably should have just kept my big mouth shut and not opened the can of worms. that said... I could see two individual volume pedals working pretty well. You could toss a boost in front to get equiv full volume of both at the 50/50 mix point.

some interesting stuff there. very cool and I appreciate you sharing.

nicely done. those are as shiny as.... well something real shiny...