ADFinlayson

A gouge in a fretting finger is probably my least favourite thing about guitar building At least there is always plenty of super glue lying around to fix it

You're planning on painting it a solid colour aren't you? Just use any old wood and paint the control cover the same as the rest of it

Hi, that looks like some serious plectrum abuse over the years and is the problem with oil finishes, they don't protect the wood anywhere near as well as some hard like poly or lacquer. I just pulled some dents out of a mahogany body that I've been working on this week. You can use steam to expand the compressed fibres by using a soldering iron and some wet kitchen towel or cloth. It won't be perfect but will make the dents quite a bit shallower and greatly reduce the amount of sanding you need to do to make them invisible. Simply put the wet kitchen towel (folded up) over a dent, then press a hold soldering iron on top of it for a few seconds at a time. lift off if the towel starts to darken and you may need to keep soaking and steaming.

Totally in awe of your carving skills @ScottR, inspiring work!

They're not really intended to be tutorials - I don't consider myself qualified, although granted I do mutter on a lot about why I'm doing this and that. It's really just me documenting a couple of builds to help get my name out, which surprisingly is working.

EP 8 finished, slight change of pace from other episodes.

Totally agree, every time I see someone building an acoustic, it makes me want to have a go. Only thing holding me back is that I don't want to make the moulds.

The audio volume for the thicknesser seen was 15% of that of the rest of the footage I'll try turning it down lower when I put the fretboards through it

EP 7, stuck on headstock veneers and routed trussrod access

yep that will be the treble bleed in the volume pot, they're great for cleaning up a distorted sound if you just roll back a couple on the volume. No I was literally just using the built in condenser mic for my voice recorder. I might take my demo's to the studio in future and mic up my good amps, I expect it will sound a lot better.

Thanks, no the bridge pickup is pretty hot, its probably just a combo of vol rolled back slightly and a crap amp - just running through my little mustang GT amp which I'm regretting buying. It's got great features, built in looper etc, but it sounds fairly abysmal.

You should be, that looks frickin' awesome

Well whomever buys it will have my blood sweat and tears I normally use an old credit card, but I think I mentioned in the vid that I couldn't find it. You have no doubt guessed from the videos that my garage is a pig sty most of the time.

Put a short demo video together. I actually filmed myself noodling to a couple of random youtube backing tracks for the best part of an hour, but I'm so shit that only 3 mins were actually any good (debatable I know) Enjoy..

You neglected to mention that I actually learnt the trick of ear grain direction from a certain @Bizman62 I'm sure you're totally right regarding a headstock veneer getting affected by fretboard removal, but ever since I suffered bodily delimitation (sounds excruciating right?) while unsetting a neck with the same glue, I stick to safety of a more resistant glue for the joints I want to remain permanent. Yeah I'm thinking filming one in full and either speeding through or just missing out the second neck is the better option for filming to keep editing etc down

Finished episode six. Apologies for the low volume in the first few mins, someone had the microphone set to stupid.

Just when we thought it couldn't possibly look any more metal

Congrats on another GTOM win dude! 2 wins from one build thread, you're on fire

That is one brutal looking guitar, reminds of Grainger guitars, but more metal

Have you tried shank adaptors? I got an 8-piece set relatively cheap from ebay after having the same trouble and can now convert pretty much any metric/imperial collet size. Obviously up to 1/2", not the other way round

I'll kick off this month then. My 6th and favourite build to date. Spec Top wood: Carved Ziricote 18mm body: 1-piece black limba 29mm Control cover: black limba Neck: 1-piece blank limba, 20mm D from nut to 17th fret headstock: Ziricote with white mop inlay fretboard: Ziricote, MOP 2-headed snake thing inlay plus 2mm white mop dots and mop side dots and Ziricote binding scale: 25" Frets: 24 medium jumbo nickel silver Finish: - Body: natural satin poly clear coat - Neck: Danish oil Bridge: PRS adjustable stoptail Tuners: Sperzel trim lock 3x3 chrome/gold Nut: Graphtec, 43mm Pickups: PRS 57/08 neck, HFS bridge pickup selection: 3-way toggle + individual coil splits Controls: 1 vol w/treble bleed, 1 tone and switchcraft toggle, ebony lampshades, ivory style pickup rings and switch-tip Weight: 8 lb 4oz Build thread: http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49493-hi-starting-building-6/ Demo video Photos

This is one router job that I hate, it's always a pain getting a perfect 2mm deep recess for a plastic control cover to sit in nicely when the smallest bit I've got is 10mm + the bearing. I normally end up making the template for the recess out of something like 15mm MDF so I can route it safely. But I find it's easier to make control covers out of wood and add a bit of depth to them, looks nicer too but obviously additional work on finishing.

I've got several build threads on PG. I'll list them below. I had several build threads on the Crimson forum too but they shut their forum down last year and they're no longer live. if you want to know about my thoughts on the Crimson course then send me a PM. http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49493-hi-starting-building-6/ http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49621-ovangkol-lp-rebuild/ http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/49822-having-a-go-at-my-own-build-series/

My advice to you having just been on a Crimson course, is learn how to do your design stuff prior to going and have a clear vision of what you're going to do because it is VERY easy to see your time at the bench wasted. 3 months seems like a long time, but I was amazed at how little the 3 month students do in a day.

I don't see any reason not to have a truss rod at the heel end, as long as you don't get glue in it. If you're worried, just grab a different truss rod and save that for another build, they're only about £10