jay5 Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 I was just curious as to what truss rod everyone prefers. I have a couple of Hotrods that I'm putting in the necks I am working on but I was curious, which truss rods do you all prefer? I found the LMI rods the other day and was wondering if anyone has used them? They have a double rod but it's $21 which seems a bit hight to me. Anyway, any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 I used an LMII double action truss rod in my bass. I really like them since you don't have to have the special router bit like you do with hotrods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted December 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 I had planned on just using a 1/4" with the Hotrod and either shimming it at both ends (if needed) or just seating it with some silicone. I have heard that works. Should be a similar operation with the LMI standard rod which is 3/16" wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 I've used double-action truss rods from Allied Lutherie, they fit a 1/4" channel and they're only $14 each (or $9.50 each if you order 6 or more). Guitar only, they don't list bass-sized rods. No problems at all. here ya go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 Hot rods suck, not versatile enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted December 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 Sweet find Erik! Thanks alot! I was a little hesitant about using the 1/4" bit on the hotrod. I will definately give these a go in the future. Perry, what rods do you use? What do you mean when you say versitile? Application versitility or use? Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 I used the 1/4" bit on my hotrod and it works fine. It's a little bit loosey goosey but a little bathtub sealer and it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 They are too deep, so you cant make thin necks. I use one thats simular to the allied lutherie ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 I use hotrods, for the router bit i just use a 1/4" bit with silcone works fine no rattle at all, as far as them not being able to have a thin neck, i dont like thin necks so its not a problem for me MzI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 I used the 1/4" bit on my hotrod and it works fine. It's a little bit loosey goosey but a little bathtub sealer and it will be fine. alot of people do this,but if i wanted a small rod in a big rout,i would buy a $200 guitar. for me,the whole reason behind building is too try and tighten up those godawful tolerances Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 I used the 1/4" bit on my hotrod and it works fine. It's a little bit loosey goosey but a little bathtub sealer and it will be fine. alot of people do this,but if i wanted a small rod in a big rout,i would buy a $200 guitar. for me,the whole reason behind building is too try and tighten up those godawful tolerances ya me too! but to me the trussrod rout is one thing that doesent REALLY matter... Everything like neck to body and such I try my hardest to get a TIGHT fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 to me the trussrod rout is one thing that doesent REALLY matter... of course it does...more wood in the desired area of the neck is a good thing. but really everything matters in one way or another. it's just like getting the cavity routs clean...it may not noticeably(or at all) affect the tone,but it just makes you feel better knowing everything is in order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 The double action from LMII or similar are the way to go. Hot Rod ... well you have already heard most of it... my 2 cents -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metallisomething Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 as for the depth concern with HotRods, the difference in size between the hotrod and the Allied Lutherie Ltd is only 0.062". i dont know how precise and thin you guys are making these necks but, thats not a big enough difference to care. (its aoubt 1/16" if anybody cares) has anyone used the traditional Gibson style truss rods stew mac What are they like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 Well, the ones i use, which LOOK SIMULAR< BUT ARE NOT THE SAME AS ALLIED, are a good 4mm shallower, maybe more. Derek, measure one for me will ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litchfield Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 Got a link for where to get such critters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catnine Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 I always used aluminum channel style truss rods like the ones stew mac sells for martins , they are only 3/8 " deep and are wider though 7/16" . I route a 1/16 " deeper and used a maple filler , spread epoxy in the route and drop in the rod and then the filler and clamp . This way there is no water to swell the neck that needs to dry out well before going on . Beside this the nut fits in hole drilled into the heel end rather than like hot rod . I could not find the channel type for the strat I'm building now so I got a hotrod , after I got the 7/32" proper bit and routed the channel I still went a bit deeper to allow for a maple filler . I did'nt like the idea of the rod getting glue on it or it being against the back of the fingerboard . Also I made a filler strip for the end so the nut was not sitting in an open channel . I f I would have looked further on stew macs site I would have found the channel style . To me they are more stable and do have a thicker rod , once this is epoxied in place it is not going anywhere and becomes part of the neck . However it is a one way rod but I always make certain I have a bit of upbow . I already did install the hotrod but I don't think I will use one again . It's precision made and I don't care about thin necks for me , I like deep necks . The one thing I found is the nut is welded on and it is not centered so it rubs one side of the route when rotated , not a big deal , you are not making 360 degree turns . I would rather have the width cut from the neck than the depth and one unit with one moving part and not bother with silcone to keep it from a rattle . I got one from LMI a single action double rod but I did not care for the quaility , it was not welded straight with one rod perfect above the other and the flat welded 3/16" square stock they used for the nut to bear against was not true to the nut set and the threads were running crooked on the rod . It may have worked but I personally would not use something that I did not fully trust , not in a neck I'm going to spend hours making and years playing . When you think about rods more , think about neck twist , a single or dual rod with fittings on one or both ends acts as a pivot and will move with the neck if the wood should decide to twist . An aluminum thick walled channel bonded to the neck on all sides adds strength and would take alot more effort to twist it , and ther nut and rod cannot act as a pivot , the rod can only rotate in the channel . If you take a metal rod and tighten it to cause a bow it wants to flip and twist against the pressure . Maybe this is a small issue but to me it is not . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 Got a link for where to get such critters? Yup, click WWW below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeR Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 Hi everyone, I have waited for an opertunity to post this; I have had the pleasure of buying parts from Perry, and he is truely knowledgeable about his stock, and is always willing to answer/advise as to what best suits your needs. If you are thinking about ordering a trussrod (or anything) from Perry, i assure you that you wont be disapointed. Hope everyone has had a good start to the new year, Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwdelulu Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 Can someone please describe the pro's and con's of double action truss rods? What will you recommend for a first guitar? Happy new year, Itai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 there are no cons as far as i am concerned. easier install,better adjustability,greater adjustment strength.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 Thanks Luke. As Wes said, there are ZERO pitfalls with using a double action rod. In most cases, except maybe stew mac's hotrods, they take up the same or less room than a single action rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 I've been using single action up to now, Martin style, but I've just picked up a Gotoh 2 way rod, still martin style so you still benefit from the stiffness a u-channel rod imparts, but it's smaller in depth and width - looks very good, so I'm looking forwards to trying it out. Gotoh 2-way rod @ Rockinger.de Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 Catnine is right. The Martin-style is THE way to go if you are making a new neck. For repairs, I would ABSOLUTELY go with the single-acting two-rod LMI. It puts the correct load on the neck and is a breeze to reset in old slots. Don't forget the bathtub caulk! I found that gluing the fretboard back on with a small amount of your original problem solved(back/front) really helps keep the neck out of a large truss-related load. And, what is $20.00 compared with the trauma you and your guitar go through when the crappy rod fails? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 When you think about rods more , think about neck twist , a single or dual rod with fittings on one or both ends acts as a pivot and will move with the neck if the wood should decide to twist . An aluminum thick walled channel bonded to the neck on all sides adds strength and would take alot more effort to twist it , and ther nut and rod cannot act as a pivot , the rod can only rotate in the channel . If you take a metal rod and tighten it to cause a bow it wants to flip and twist against the pressure . Maybe this is a small issue but to me it is not . <sarcasm> Yes, you are 100% correct. Im going to start writing letters to the manufacturers of the last 10,000,000,000 guitars that used these rods, and tell them their guitars are rat ****. </sarcasm> Your twisting theory is flawed. Whats the difference if the rod is encased with some thin aluminium, or if its encased with more than 1/2" of wood?? When was the last time you saw a twisted neck because of the type of truss rod?? Name one electric guitar maker that uses Martin rods?? Show me proof that non-Martin rods cause neck troubles. Epoxying the truss rod in to the neck pretty much guarantees it aint going to work efficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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