Trann Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 So I'm getting pretty far with my guitar, but one of the things I'm still confused on how to do is the arm and belly cutaway. It's a JEM, so the belly cutaway is also dependant on making the handle usable. Should I make a template of the back and side and then draw it on the body and sand away or are there other methods? On the arm cutaway, it it acceptable to keep a finished body nearby for comparision and go by feel? Any input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 i run the back across my bandsaw for the belly cut( more shaping after with the rasp; but its the best way i find to get a good straight start; lil risky feeling sometime) and over the jointer for the arm 'rest'; draw a line whre you want it to be and make that to the edge of your planer hold it on a lil angle and joint it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Usually hand tools (rasp, shinto rasp, surform, microplane), and a handplane (block or jack) for the forearm countour, but if you want to go fast, an angle grinder with a coarse sanding/grinding disk will make really short work of it. I tend to go by look and feel and general measurements, but I don't make replicas, so I really don't give a rats patootie if it's 'vintage correct' or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Angle grinder! A surprisingly efficient and controllable tool when used to carve contours :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Angle grinder! A surprisingly efficient and controllable tool when used to carve contours :-) +1 An angle grinder with a 40 grit sanding flap is a great tool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Mailloux Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 I do it the hard way, but I have to admit that if I ever buy an angle grinder, I'll probably start doing it the lazy way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Trim it out on the bandsaw, and shape it with some 36-grit randomly orbital sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doeringer Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 I use the angle grinder with a heavy grit sanding pad. While having difficulty shapeing correctly at first, a friend said to use the angle grinder like an artist would use a paintbrush...and I haven't had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Angle grinder plus 40 grit paper. But be so awefully careful when going this route......cause the 40 grit sandpaper just eats through the wood like carzy. Process is something like this: 5 min. of grinding. 10 min. of file and rasping. 30 min. of sanding (sticking sandpaper to old libary card worked wonders). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 I just drew lines on the sides and went at it with a small surform...sure it takes a little longer, but for me the most rewarding part of working on the guitar are those few places where I can set aside the power tools and have at it with hand tools. I can understand using power tools for this if you're in a rush. But you'd think that this a part that's going to be in direct contact with your body --might be worthwhile to take your time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 I just finished up a forearm counter and belly carve with rasps and surforms followed by spokeshaves and handplanes. I *like* just hanging out on the porch for a while carving away at wood by hand. And my tools are sharp enough, that I make my last few spokeshave/plane passes lightly and get an almost glassy-smooth finish right there. I'll probably end up sanding this, since I have other places where I will need to sand, but I was looking at those areas under the bright sun the other day, and I would feel comfortable spraying that wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 I just finished up a forearm counter and belly carve with rasps and surforms followed by spokeshaves and handplanes. I *like* just hanging out on the porch for a while carving away at wood by hand. And my tools are sharp enough, that I make my last few spokeshave/plane passes lightly and get an almost glassy-smooth finish right there. I'll probably end up sanding this, since I have other places where I will need to sand, but I was looking at those areas under the bright sun the other day, and I would feel comfortable spraying that wood. Untill I see pictures, I think you are lying out of your teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 Angle grinder + 40 grit flapper. I do rear belly carves in under 5 minutes now, and front carves pretty much just as fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batfink Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 but I don't make replicas, so I really don't give a rats patootie if it's 'vintage correct' or whatever. +1 to the man from the Dam Oh, surform, microplane, 80 grit and a couple of Amstel's ! Jem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 If you want it accurate or "vintage". You could use templates and a router set to the proper height at each template. Much like a topographocal map. That is how I did my first strat. Totally not necessary but it works and lets you get it very similar to a real carve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 1, 2006 Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 I just finished up a forearm counter and belly carve with rasps and surforms followed by spokeshaves and handplanes. I *like* just hanging out on the porch for a while carving away at wood by hand. And my tools are sharp enough, that I make my last few spokeshave/plane passes lightly and get an almost glassy-smooth finish right there. I'll probably end up sanding this, since I have other places where I will need to sand, but I was looking at those areas under the bright sun the other day, and I would feel comfortable spraying that wood. Untill I see pictures, I think you are lying out of your teeth. What's not to believe? Seriously, only reason I sand the bits of wood that get planed and scraped is because the bits next to them tend to need it ;-) Ain't no finish smoother and cleaner than a freshly planed one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 It was a joke Mattia.......although I like to see pictures.......I'm a very visual kinda guy. LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrax Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 this is how g&l does it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 Like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 Sure Scott, but isn't there an easier way than that.. I mean, that looks way too hard.. I think I've used about every method know to man to do contours and whatever works for you and give you satisfactory results, go for it. Here are just some of the few ways I've done this job.. * Belt Sander * Angle Grinder * Router with jig I made * Bandsaw * Drum Sander attached to a cordless drill.. * Copy Carver * Rasp, Chisel, Surform and various hand tools.. Test on scrap first, and find a method that works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 I'm working on finishing up the bevels on my explorer (no forearm/beer gut cuts here )and honestly, this is how I do it. Take a half flat/half round wood file. Cut a 9x11 sheet of sandpaper into 3rds the short way. Wrap paper around file. Use flat side. Sand. Yes, sandpaper AROUND a wood file. No, I don't use the wood file on the wood. hahahaha Like it's been said before, I like working with the hands as much as possible. Oh, and by the way, anyone else tried the Norton 3X sandpaper? Hot damn, that's some good stuff! -Xanthus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted August 4, 2006 Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 I'm working on finishing up the bevels on my explorer (no forearm/beer gut cuts here )and honestly, this is how I do it. Take a half flat/half round wood file. Cut a 9x11 sheet of sandpaper into 3rds the short way. Wrap paper around file. Use flat side. Sand. Yes, sandpaper AROUND a wood file. No, I don't use the wood file on the wood. hahahaha Like it's been said before, I like working with the hands as much as possible. Oh, and by the way, anyone else tried the Norton 3X sandpaper? Hot damn, that's some good stuff! -Xanthus Or, use rasp as it's intended, get bevels close, then sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted August 5, 2006 Report Share Posted August 5, 2006 It's actually a pretty ****** file, and the sandpaper eats through the wood faster than the file does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted August 5, 2006 Report Share Posted August 5, 2006 I use a rasp then I finish with some 80 grit sticky back sandpaper stuck on the side of an old coffee cup, hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundAt11 Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 I draw out the cutaways in pencil, then Dremil them out with the rotary sanding drum, then go back with a file and sandpaper to smooth them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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