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Neck shaping


KevinS

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We talked about using a router to shape the back of the neck with roundover bits, even if you can't get the right size, you can still use the router to get rid of alot of excess wood then go the the spokeshave or what have you to finalize the shape, it'll save you alot of time and keep your carving tool sharper for longer

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Stones' - A roundover bit is a router cutter, usually bearing guided, which cuts a semi-circular profile. It is comonly used to radius the edges of guitar bodies, kitchen worktops etc. However....

...Hands up anyone who has *actually used a router to shape a neck*? If some body here has done it, great, follow their instructions. Otherwise, I'd opt for a spokeshave, sandpaper, and a rasp. Bulk material removal takes virtually no time at all with a spokeshave or rasp - I can rough a neck in about 10 minutes.

IMO a huge roundover bit on a routertable, combined with the relatively small workpiece of a neck, is a genuinely horrific accident waiting to happen, especially for the inexperienced woodworker.

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setch does have a good point, i was just sharing the info, i've got it setup but i haven't tried it on a neck yet, i will soon though and let you guys know how it turns out

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Hmmm, i timed myself today. Eight minutes to carve a neck to sanding stage, using a $30 spokeshave, a half round rasp, and a half round file.

If id done it with a router, id have to buy the bit ($40-70??), set up the router each time (5-10 minutes), possibly make a jig (one for each different neck length/width/shape), make or buy a router table, fit the router to the table (unless it is dedicated to that one job = more $$$). Then, rout the neck = four minutes, and THEN, get out the spokeshave (because you bought a generic round over bit, and not a $150 custom made jobbie), and finish the shaping.....

All in all, how much time is saved?? LESS TIME.

Chances of chip out using a router? LOTS

Chances of chip out using spokeshave? Very little

For the people on this forum, who are making less than five guitars at a time, it would be less cost effective, and more time consuming to use a router. And a damn site more dangerous.

Luckily, i was taugh well during my apprenticeship, and that it isnt always easier, cheaper, more accurate, or faster to use machinery or powertools.

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I couldn't agree more with rhoads56. For beginners, you just have better control with hand tools as if an accident happens(and it probably will at one time or another) it's usually not as fatal. Just start slow and don't try to rush things or take shortcuts because that's when you end up scrapping stuff.

Good luck!

Dave->

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LIke I said - I can get a neck roughed in 10 minutes (still lagging 2 mins behind Perry :D ). I can't imagine a router setup where your setup time would be much less than that - let alone the machining time too. The tradeoff may be the consistency of product produced, but I think getting a good neck profile straight from the router would mean major investment in custom cutters.

Of course I'm just waiting to be proved wrong by somebody...then I can steal the idea and use it to take over the world B)

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I used a sanding disc on my angle grinder to start. Gets you close really fast, then move to a plane,beltsander,spokeshave,surform,chisel, anything and everything. Most important is to know what you are aiming for. I left my neck too wide until I glued the fingerboard on then used the router table with a straight trimmer bit to get the sides accurate. A spokeshave is really the best for getting the final profile right before sanding. Pics soon.

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IMO a huge roundover bit on a routertable, combined with the relatively small workpiece of a neck, is a genuinely horrific accident waiting to happen, especially for the inexperienced woodworker.

I would agree. Unless you are dealing with some difficult wood, I would use hand tools for this. I would only use this as a last resort unless you really feel comfortable with the possibility of serious kick-back.

I have done three necks using nothing more than a scraper and some sand paper (and possibly a belt sander). Each neck only took a matter of hours and it was actually very rewarding. I think it's my favorite part of building a guitar.

I haven't had much luck with my spokeshave (I'm looking for another brand now) but if you have a decent scraper, give it a try - I think you will be amazed at how quickly it goes.

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The two best ways are the most expensive and most consistant.

1. CNC Router

2. Carving Duplicator

Now not many of us have the luxury of having either, we have to come up with ways of doing it, that aren't nearly as accurate or easy. Spokeshave and making neck contour templates to judge how your doing is one way that seems good. I have also thought about using a router table to do the back of the neck shaping myself, but to be safe and accurate.. I will need to make some kind of jig that would hold the neck at the right way, and will slide with the guides.. so it doesn't move and also you'll have to set it up so the neck ends up wider as you go down the neck.. now making this jig might bring up a problem.. lol.. I have some ideas I"m gonna try on scrap pieces... maybe this will spur on some kinda brain wave and someone will figure it all out and make it easy.. lol.. Just post pictures!!!!

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If you really want to use a power tool such as a router, I would think that it may be safer to use a hand router in a similar fashion as is done with radiusing fretboards. I haven't seen a jig for this, but I would think that you could build one that rotates the neck under a sliding router. Very similar to the jig used to make compound radius fretboards. Unfortunately, it is pretty time consuming to build and may be made worse when it comes to routing necks. Just a thought.

Since it only takes a matter of hours to make one with sand paper and a scraper, I think I'll stick to that. The key to this method is just making sure you have a nice slope defined from the heel to the headstock. It's really not bad from there.

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