tjiscooler Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Ive got a nice piece of bloodwood I want to use a fretboard. I really love the way the figure looks when its wet/finished and shiny and i want that look on my fretboard too. Can you recommend anything I could use that's fretboard friendly? I have tru oil, but im afraid it might be a bad idea for the board, most people advise against it. The rest of the guitar will most likely be oiled. Ive used teak oil with good results on boards but it doesn't leave a super shiny slick gloss look. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Ive got a nice piece of bloodwood I want to use a fretboard. I really love the way the figure looks when its wet/finished and shiny and i want that look on my fretboard too. Can you recommend anything I could use that's fretboard friendly? I have tru oil, but im afraid it might be a bad idea for the board, most people advise against it. The rest of the guitar will most likely be oiled. Ive used teak oil with good results on boards but it doesn't leave a super shiny slick gloss look. Any tips? Behlens Fingerboard Oil - follow the directions the plastic bottle... I have also used Behlens Teak Oil - follow the directions on the can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripthorn Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 If you want super slick and shiny, you could always give epoxy a try. I personally wouldn't, but who knows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 I just used epoxy on my ebony board.It's a new thing for me.What I did was I got a box of those blue powder free rubber gloves and I rubbed the epoxy(24 hour T88) onto the board very sparingly...just rubbed it in with my fingers..Then I took an old bandana and rubbed off any leftover excess.It left a very thin,very nice looking coating which seemed to penetrate well without running all over into places I didn't want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 I just used epoxy on my ebony board.It's a new thing for me.What I did was I got a box of those blue powder free rubber gloves and I rubbed the epoxy(24 hour T88) onto the board very sparingly...just rubbed it in with my fingers..Then I took an old bandana and rubbed off any leftover excess.It left a very thin,very nice looking coating which seemed to penetrate well without running all over into places I didn't want it. Interesting... I've got a maple board on a current project I've been wondering whether to clear or oil, maybe epoxy might be worth a shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Thanks for the reply! It sounds like a good plan, Ive seen it used on fretless basses a lot. Did you sand it smooth than buff it out Westhemann? Any pics you would like to share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Epoxy is a common fretboard finish from what I have read.Oiled maple is tough to keep clean.I cleared a maple board with catalytic varnish and it is holding up fine,but it is tough to get the finish right between the frets(for me anyway) I am planning to refinish it in just clear in the near future because i have to thin it to reduce some weight anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Did you sand it smooth than buff it out Westhemann? Any pics you would like to share? No sanding..no buffing yet,but I am going to buff it this weekend before assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the help! Ive got some west system epoxy ill give a try on some scrap first. Do you think i should do it before fretting or after? It would be way easier to sand/buff before hand, but i dont want to F it up while crowning.... Edited November 11, 2011 by tjiscooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 11, 2011 Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 I did it after fretting,since I just rubbed it in...there really isn't any sanding to do,and as far as buffing,it will just be a touch.It's very thin. I don't have that much advice about it,because this is my first attempt at it.But on the maple board I sprayed the varnish after fretting.I don't know how you would ever fret one without damage if you finished it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 I've used bloodwood for a fretboard before. It feels great... kinda like ebony. For most of my fretboards, I use boiled linseed oil. It brings out the color, adds a little bit of sheen, and still lets you feel the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) Boiled linseed? I would recommend raw linseed. Boiling is a misnomer. Nowadays it is chemically treated which partially polymerises it. Although it makes it cure quicker than raw, boiled no longer penetrates the fingerboard as deeply. Treat boiled as a surface film and raw as a conditioner. You get the same look with raw and better long term care. Edited November 12, 2011 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 @Avengers63, Thats a nice one! I love the stripes in bloodwood, they make a great hologrphic effect. What kind of nut is that? Looks like you made it out of aluminum or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Prostheta: I know it's not boiled any more, but that's the name on the can when you look for it. Though you can build up a weak film with it, I'm personally not interested in that at all. I use it 1) to bring out the grain while still being able to feel it, 2) because it cures, so it should last longer than other oils before re-application is needed. tjiscooler: I bought that aluminum nut on eBay, where I get a LOT of my hardware & electronics. The inlays themselves are mirrored plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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