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Buckeye Burl Wolfgang Special


t1r12003

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One more quick rout this morning for the trem cavity. I actually got an "In Progress" pic this time. I set up a couple 1x2's and a follower bit on my router to keep straight lines. Just one little burn spot I'll need to sand out.

1101121030.jpg

Looks backwards.... Nevermind... I have lost my mind.

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One more quick rout this morning for the trem cavity. I actually got an "In Progress" pic this time. I set up a couple 1x2's and a follower bit on my router to keep straight lines. Just one little burn spot I'll need to sand out.

1101121030.jpg

How do you know you're on the right place? I don't see any marks on the centerline or marks to measure from, Am I missing something?

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I think you are missing the fact it is a 2 piece body with a glueline to measure from

Correct. Center line as a guide, then I measured from the butt of the guitar, again at the center, up to the bottom edge of the trem cavity. Since I have my black Wolfie as a reference I used exact measurements from it.

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Thing is, since most burls require some kind of filling it is unlikely that the top will be in any state to be stained. Superglue will prevent stain penetrating so unless other stain-friendly fillers are used then staining is right out. Looking good.

You could stain, then use clear epoxy to fill in the voids... works in theory at least :P

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Thing is, since most burls require some kind of filling it is unlikely that the top will be in any state to be stained. Superglue will prevent stain penetrating so unless other stain-friendly fillers are used then staining is right out. Looking good.

You could stain, then use clear epoxy to fill in the voids... works in theory at least :P

I decided to keep it natural with a black binding. I did some test pieces of red and it seemed to be hiding more of the grain than showing it off. I have another bookmatched piece of buckeye burl I picked up and I may stain that one for a future build.

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Thing is, since most burls require some kind of filling it is unlikely that the top will be in any state to be stained. Superglue will prevent stain penetrating so unless other stain-friendly fillers are used then staining is right out. Looking good.

You could stain, then use clear epoxy to fill in the voids... works in theory at least :P

That's exactly what I had to do in my F-Hole build and it works in practice too.

This build is well beyond that though, since he has already begun stablelizing with CA. His burl will look awesome finished natural, especially with a black binding to cantrast and frame it.

SR

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  • 2 weeks later...

Word to the wise, if you are planning to use the edge, you either need to route out a space for the front to go to, or grind the front of it to an angle. You will wind up chewing your top up in a hurry if you don't! Everything looks great though, the edge is my FAVORITE trem by far! :P

Edited by bob123
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It's going to rest against the body, no trem cavity. It'll sit up enough that those front edges won't rub. I have a Roadstar set up the same way.

Your neck must be sitting rather high then, I took a chunk out of my axis' finish when I tried using the edge on there :( Just giving you some personal (painful) experience here, just double check everything and make sure :P

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Just threw them on there for the pic. I still have to rout the control cavity. More thought will go into the placement of the knobs when I go to drill the holes. The tone knob looks high but I prefer the vol knob pretty close the the bridge pickup. I ride the vol a lot when i play and it's easier to do with my pinky when it's close.

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