Tattoosleeve Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 that scarf detail is siiiiiiiiiiiick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 A bit more detailed neck carving today and getting the heel to feel more comfortabnle: Also decided the knot in the wenge was annoying me, so I filed a bit of scrap wenge for the shavings and mixed it into some epoxy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Damn man that is probably the most comfortable heel I've seen in a while! looking awesome. I cant wait to start building soon! I thought I had to wait until its warmer. Whats the temps in your area? Can I build in the cold too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 It's been approx 30 deg cel here every day. I've recently installed a wood heater to get me through winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Whuh? Are you serious? Finland rarely gets warmer than that in the summer. Our usual range is -30°C to +30°C or thereabouts? Are you some kind of lizard or a camel? :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Its summer here - not winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 oh cool its getting into the 40F-60F here so I should be good to go soon! :-P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 oh cool its getting into the 40F-60F here so I should be good to go soon! :-P That is more than warm enough! 50 and up is more than buildable weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Clancy (the customer) dropped by the workshop today to check in on the star guitar progress. Tells me he's very excited and very happy with the way it's all coming together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Preparing to radius: Checking the radius after about a hundred or so strokes with 80 grit: Bit of a scrub up with 120 grit and then air hose out the slots: Final clean up with a razor blade to remove the glue from the binding: Half way: Time to get out of the shed, it's too damn hot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Pickups arrived today, Bareknuckle Aftermath Calibrated set with burnt Chrome covers: Filing fret edges: Starting the bevel: Frets finished for now (until I finish them after paint stage) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Was not expecting the blue trem, thats sick though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 Things like this almost make me wish it were a good idea to turn off the swear filter. We need to do beers one day Allan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Was not expecting the blue trem, thats sick though! It's not just the trem thats blue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Were they anodised? The toggle switches could easily be disassembled for the same treatment if the existing coating is not a problem. Glad the blue isn't just on a single feature. Having it across the board ties the whole thing together nicely. Never seen this combination of colours before, oddly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Searls I have no idea how you are building this thing with a straight face. ( I think I take my guitar building too serious) On a good note the customer looks like a cool friggin dude who is going to lay down some tasty groove with this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 This is Don, a friend of mine (and fellow project guitar member) who I'll be teaching everything I know so he can help me out - if he sticks at it. Here he is sanding the first carve top he's ever attempted. Turned out great. While he was working on that and the next top he carved, I was doing fiddly stuff like drilling holes for "glow in the dark" side dots: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 It's too bad there's no such thing as blue fret wire..... SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 you could use heat to change the colour of stainless frets maby. like the blueing you get on race exhausts. but then it would probobly wear away with play i suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 I wont be changing the frets any time soon. Started the paint process today. Sanded the whole guitar down with 80 grit to smooth outy any file marks or rough carving marks etc. Basically just a tidy up. Followed this with a 120 and then 320 sand to remove the previous grit scratches. Followed by an intensive airhose to remove all dust. I then hung the guitar on a rack and mixed up some west System Epoxy which I rubbed all over the entire guitar by hand whilst wearing Nitrile gloves. I'll leave it for a few days, sand and repeat this process to fill all the pores in these African timbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 You are so accomplished with a paint gun and turn out so many painted guitars, that it throws me a bit when you say you started the paint process whilst I'm looking at this guitar of so many great timbers and colors. You are referring to the finishing process or the spraying of the clear coat in this case are you not? And that brings me to the next question. Do you always go straight to 320 after 120, skipping 220 altogether? You don't find it takes longer to get 120 scratches out with 320? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Scott: it'll be clear only. The customer wanted a burst on it, I said NO! With grits, it depends on the timbers and how they react. I just work with it according to how it's treating me on the day, but most if the time I'll go 40 or 80, 120, 320, then through the first paint stages 320, then 600 then after final clears straight to wet sanding with 2000 and 3000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 It's too bad there's no such thing as blue fret wire..... SR There are blue strings though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redb Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 holy multilaminated madness batman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 To bring things up to speed, after letting it hang and harden right up for a week I sanded the first epoxy coat back to wood with 120 grit with a random orbital and by hand in the tricky bits, then smoothed it somewhat with 320 grit again with the random orbital. Then I re epoxied using my hands again with nitrile gloves on. After hanging for yet another week I hand sanded the entire thing with 320 grit. As its epoxy I've used as a sealer and primer on this one I am leaving it at 320 to allow the clear coat more sdhesion. I'm still experimenting with this epoxy product and seeing what it is and isnt capable of, but I have a gut feeling that if I level it much more than 320 then de lamination of the clear coat risk is increased. Besides, the clear coat fills the 320 scratches quite nicely. After the sanding and before the spraying, I Prepsol'd the entire guitar. Prepsol is a special wax and grease remover by PPG for use during the paint process. For anyone who has never used prepsol, its important to use, yet if you dont wipe it all off, then your paint can delaminate, as if you leave an invisable film of prepsol on the surface then your clear coat adhesion is hindered. I once spoke to a spray painter who was painting a commercial aircraft where the apprentice prep guy didnt wipe any of the prepsol off properly. An entire aircraft had to be sanded and resprayed! This is a clear coat I started trialling last year and I've been using it since. It's meant to be a top shelf European product as opposed to the USA and Australian brands I usually use. Once I adjusted to the different way it sprays I've been getting great results from it. The first of the final session of two clear coats: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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