Jump to content

I'm making me an 8 string.....electric mandolin


Recommended Posts

I got a little time in this weekend. I picked up some 3/8" x 1/16" neodymium magnets and set them to hold the cavity cover. These are powerful little buggers. The data sheet says they are brittle and can crack or shatter if allowed to slam together. Yep. And it's pretty damn hard to keep them from slamming together.

C00342.jpg

They work like a champ. I went a long way towards getting the scroll fettled out.

C00344.jpgC00346.jpgC00347.jpgC00348.jpg

Made a thumb hole to prize the cover out of its magnetic grip.

SR

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

That carve has come out really nice, Scott.  Such a smooth, precise end result.  Wonderful result.

3/8" neo magnets....hmmm, that's probably twice the size of the largest I would generally use.  Good job they are well clear of the p/up!

Thanks, Andy. 

I had no clue of what size magnets to use, as this is my first foray into this territory. I wanted neo to be sure they were strong enough...nearly went with 1/8" thick.:P

SR

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I have no idea why my pics are doubled up in that last post. Probably something I did. What I do know is while it is simple to delete a photobucket hosted pic, I find it impossible to delete a posted pic that has been uploaded to this site by way of editing after the post has been submitted.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure that the field lines of neodiddliums are tighter than "normal" magnets, and the falloff is correspondingly smaller. They are more powerful by volume though, which might counteract that whole thing. I'm sure they'll be okay. The falloff is something like a square of the distance.

Yes, precise terms here and tons of sureness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a lot done this weekend....like I said smaller instruments go faster.

In my last build I worked out a dye and sandback schedule for my myrtle burl: sand to 400 dye, sandback with 220, dye again, sandback with 320 and dye a final time. Then continue sanding with 400 and go all the way through the micromesh grits. This weekend I put it to the test.

Sand to 400.

C00357.jpgC00358.jpg

Dye with bordeaux and mahogany brown in alcohol.

C00364.jpgC00365.jpg

Wow right?

Sanded back with 220.

C00367.jpg

Dyed with amber, bordeaux and mahogany brown in a more dilute solution of alcohol.

C00370.jpgC00371.jpg

I can hear Carl now...uh oh...

Sand back with 320.

C00372.jpgC00373.jpg

Dye with amber.

C00376.jpg

SR

C00368.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was interesting to see how much the zebra wood looked like sapele when its stripes were dyed over.

Following the schedule I sanded the amber back with 400 and then went all the way through the micromesh grits.

C00378.jpgC00380.jpg

Every square inch of this face flips in changing light angles.

C00382.jpgC00383.jpgC00384.jpgC00392.jpgC00393.jpgC00394.jpgC00397.jpgC00399.jpg

SR

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can mix in artist's oil paints with Tru-Oil, or in fact any other drying oil to create tints. Obviously a very very small amount, and do test on scrap. It's a great way to find all manner of crazy tints without breaking the bank by buying all kinds of colours of TransTint or whatever. A little lasts forever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...