Jump to content
Voting in Guitar of the Month April 2024 is now open! ×

DC Ross

Established Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    518

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DC Ross

  1. DC Ross
    You can do Al (and other non-ferrous metals like brass) on most decent CNC routers, as long as you take it slow with shallow cuts. I've been using the JCut 6090 for just over a year, and it's been a good, relatively inexpensive (<$3k) machine that has a 24x36x6" work envelope. There's always one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24x36-600x900mm-CNC-Router-Cutter-Engraver-Sale-Christmas-and-New-Year-/130832889821?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e763f77dd
  2. DC Ross
    This: http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/ + This: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1063&site=ROCKLER + This: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000441/3612/woodcraftshop-rule-36.aspx + This: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18651&site=ROCKLER
  3. DC Ross
    Funny! I realized the same thing after the seal on the dust bin thing on my Porter Cable crapped out.
  4. DC Ross
    Apparently, that's how it's meant to be used... "The bit is specifically designed for freehand routing" Yikes!
  5. DC Ross
    To keep it on the cheap (if not necessarily the quickest way): An offcut of 1/8" plexi from a plastic supply place like Tap Plastics, with an X-acto saw (if you don't want to invest in something more suitable), and a variety of sandpaper.
  6. DC Ross
    Is... Is that a Snuggie?
  7. DC Ross
    A fanned fret compound radius is definitely possible, I do them for my baritones. I don't think a 1/2" difference in scale lengths would really maximize the benefits of the fanned frets, and so probably wouldn't be worth the cost. Feel free to send a PM though and I can give you a quote.
  8. DC Ross
    If you have long pieces, some heavy-duty brackets attached to the wall studs is a good solution, stack the pieces with stickers between them. For smaller bits, I built a scrap cart with wheels on it:
  9. DC Ross
    Judging by the 60s-70s plastic trim, I'd guess MDF
  10. DC Ross
    For under $3600, this 24x36 machine is quite good. I've been using it for a few months. http://www.ebay.com/itm/24x36-600x900mm-CNC-Router-Cutter-Engraver-high-quality-free-ship-hot-sale-/130724877131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6fcf534b
  11. DC Ross
    It depends on what you want your string width at the bridge to be... I find it's too narrow if they're touching (~1.99"). I leave about 1/32" between them for a 2.125" string width.
  12. DC Ross
    If you have a halfway decent compressor, go for an inexpensive vac bag setup: Space Bags (http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=16698563) and a Harbor Freight vac pump (http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html). Get some air fittings and a valve, and voila -- cheap bagging solution.
  13. DC Ross
    Epoxy with a filler additive, like microbaloons, or a fairing filler would be your best bet. System 3 and West Systems are two top names. You'll find them at marine supply houses.
  14. DC Ross
    I do a signature inlay with a bunch of pointy bits on it, and can't figure out an efficient way of accomodating those points in the fingerboard cavity toolpath. Anyone have any tips? Thanks!
  15. DC Ross
    I use the same press, and I bought the cauls & holder from StewMac. It works great!
  16. DC Ross
    Looking really nice! Just out of curiosity: why cut a template?
  17. DC Ross
    So, what ever happened with that build? Hey Doug, I thought I sent a bunch of feedback to you--one of the main points being what I stated here. In a nutshell, it will be extremely difficult at best, painful at worst, to play in the first position & suggested placing the perp fret @ 6 or 7, and reducing the disparity between the two scale lengths by a half inch or so on either the bass or treble side (2" is a bit extreme at these shorter scales). I did want to say that the quality of the board was top-notch, and the faux binding was a really nice touch.
  18. DC Ross
    Nice stuff! Doug sent a test fretboard my way a while back to get feedback on it, and one of my comments was the same as Bionic said: for me, the 12th was much too far up the neck for a perpendicular fret. I place mine at the 6th on my baritone 26.5"-28" boards, which I've found is a good balance of playability, aesthetics, and string tension (tuned B to b w/ GHS .070" strings).
  19. DC Ross
    Looking at the pic, it seems like you may have been pushing the workpiece into the bit too much. The burning, plus you can see there was material taken away on the body which you were routing flush to, are giveaways. Too much lateral force, especially on thin, brittle bits like that one, and a broken bit's the result.
  20. DC Ross
    Grizzly discontinued those pedestal buffers a few years ago -- about a month before I tried to buy one. I use the StewMac buffer mounted on their swiveling pedestal, and it works really well. For the tight corners and cutaways, I use a dremel with the cloth wheels.
  21. DC Ross
    That's a really nice present for your paw-in-law. So... why'd you fret it?
  22. DC Ross
    I voted for Verhoevenc, despite "Barracuda" being misspelled
  23. DC Ross
    Meh. For a cheap, knock-around acoustic, I'd take the handle end of an x-acto and push down the offending fibers while I flowed some thin CA into that crack. When I was done with those two spots, I'd just flow some more thin CA into the rest of it.
  24. DC Ross
    I've used Rit dye (used for dying clothing) before on plastics, it might be worth experimenting a bit with it.
  25. DC Ross
    One thing I've always been curious about is how to deal with the seams... I'm really looking forward to more progress pics!
×
×
  • Create New...