Batfink

I've tended to use this stuff - actually got 2 roll's from my local B&Q 3 or 4 years back - and i find it actually easier to use than the sheet stuff that i always end up sticking to itself, myself and every screw or sharp mettallic offcut that i've ever dropped in a 100 yard radius although i do have to admit that my Basil is looking fairly unhealthy nowadays Jem

Natural product is all i can really say. Not that i've got any examples - really must get myself a digicam - but sometimes a piece that looks unusable in the raw ends up looking better than all the rest when you've finished. Jem

From some non specific conversations with MOP supplies over the past few years the inference that i sort of got is they're very much geared to the trade so their material may on occassions be slightly more in the rough than say the nice little squares that you'd get from Stew Macs or allparts et all - i can't comment on Andy DePaule but perhaps it's a bit more 'retail' orientated. On a note i've brought 20-30 ozs from MOP Supplies over the past 3-4 years and never a problem just as long as you tell them if, for example, you want large MOP for truss rod covers, they'll always, in my experience, accomodate. Jem Oh, Perry does have a point.

Can you be a bit more specific to model of Kahler ? Not that i'm too up on Kahler's, dare say someone more experienced will pipe in but the 2300 series and derivatives ie: the cam operated one's, only need a small amount routed but the Spyder's are like Floyd's and you need to gouge the obligatory bloody great hole for one. Jem

Just by chucking 20 odd coats of clear over it will enhance the figure but as people have mentioned, it depends how much you want to pop it out. You could as mentioned add a little amber'ish colour to your clear which would bring it out and subtle it down a bit. As usual, prat around with scrap first until you find something you like. Jem

$150 seems a bit steep if you just want stars like Mr Sambora's especially as you can buy them pre-cut - saying that i'd probably charge the equivelent of around $80 but that's because it's not what i do for a living. I'd suggest buying a few stars and having a go yourself with some scrap material and if you feel you're not up to it all you've lost is a few dollars worth of pearl but if you do feel confident then you'll save yourself a shed load of money and as people say it'll be even more your own guitar. Jem

Floyd user here. Although in the early 80's when they came out i much prefered the Kahler in terms of design, engineering and not having to cut bloody great holes in your guitar in reality i much prefer Floyd's. I find Kahler's to be too fussy and spongy in feel compared to a Floyd - tone wise don't ask me as everything's been turned up to 11 for years. I suppose it's also down to what you want it for, me, i'm an 80's divebombert so a Floyd is derigour ! Jem

"They are likely to be celluloid, not MOP" Exactly what i was typing. Try Setch's method or hike 'em out and cut some new from either shell or substitute like the originals. Seach for replacing inlays or something simular - there's a fair few tutorials. Jem Triple flag day since it's the 4th

Yes, but part of the job of the foam or springs or rubber hosing (what Fender uses) is to prevent the pickup from vibrating. What's stopping you using a spring or foam or a peice of Courtney Love's underwear ? Being actually inserted into the body elliminates any unwanted vibration or wierdo notes much more than just using a self tapping wood screw and you can adjust the pickup height a million times without the fear of the thread stripping out which i would be fearfull of if i was just using a self tapper. All of my Hamer shredders from the late 80's use these inserts with springs no problem at all and i use it too. The only problem i get is actually getting hold of the inserts themselves as #4-40 isn't a thread that's widely used within Europe (saying that it seems to be a favorite of the RC car racing guys) but luckily i've managed to blag a small quantity from the EZ-LOK rep over here which should keep me going for a while. Jem

Or, for a pro solution, you can use these: Threaded inserts Jem

"By the way, I just checked in the mirror, I am me." Christ on a bike it's the man who wrote the bible - welcome Sir Hiscock ! Jem

On Ebay These i think are made by the same Korean's that now make the Wilkinson stuff but can't be 100%. I've brought various stuff from this guy and some of it has come in Wilkinson packaging. Quality wise Schaller it's not but expensive it ain't either and everything i've brought has been of a reasonable quality (nothings broken or fallen apart) especially for the price. Jem

I get my waterslide one's done by Terry if that's any help. Contact him on: myguitardecals@ntlworld.com Jem

A vote for Schaller here. Used them for years, i think about a dozen of my guitars have them - the rest have OFR which were made by Schaller anyway- and the only problem has been a couple of stripped intonation threads on guitars from Ebay - not that i've ever stripped one myself and i'm sure the newer ones have hardened inserts or are case hardened. Jem

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"Craft supplies has body blanks. In theory, anyway.".................. Never a truer word ! Jem

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If it looks 100% like a LP then it's pre but if the top bout (ie the area where the pickup switch is) goes back on itself towards the neck then it's post and then known as the PF (Performer) series - you'll know what i'm on about when you look at it. Jem

Bad idea, even if it's got variable speed it's far too heavy handed and chances are you'll end up shattering the shell, you won't be able to do any tight curves as such and unless you're working massively large peices chances are you'll lose a finger tip or two . Just as a comparison, the blade width on the #3 jewellers blades i use can't be much more than .25mm whereas a scroll saw blades must be 4>6 times the width - go figure. Jem

If you're confident enough to start drilling out side dots, routing channel's in the back's of fretboards and then hacking up a guitar body to stuff the electrics in then surely you must be confident enough to grab yer mum's best cake spatula to rip the board off in the first place. Jem

I did but i think when they realised +44 is England and the call would equal the cost of the thing they probably thought better of it - i'll send a mail, it's not as if i'm in a rush. Jem

Regardless of what StewMac's policy is seek out your local 'proper' model shop. Modeller's, especially nitro car racers, use tons of the stuff and my local shop has Zap at around 20% less than any 'luthier' supply shop i know. Jem

Aren't those made in Korea? Yes they are and probably in the Cort factory Jem

Behlen UK - nuff said ! Jem

Chris, I see they've changed the spec of the LED on the page so someone's paying attention but it's still not available to buy through the site - can someone have a word please ! Jem